Couple of general curiosity questions...
Were those multiples of 2" thick slices?
Did I see correctly that they were spaced?
What were the other dimensions (width*length)?
Yes. I generally use 16"x8"x2" pavers for power breaks and 16"x4"x2" for the speed breaks. The wider ones tend to fall over on their own when placed on the heavy bag. They work fine, though, if you place them on a table or something of that sort.
I put carpenters pencils between them for the power break. I've also done it with nails between them. Pencils are just easier, because they're flat. So they don't roll off while you're stacking the bricks. The standing bricks are just standing on top of a heavy bag with nothing between them.
Contrary to what lots of people think, spacers are not used to make a break easier. I had always been taught this, and I've confirmed it with one of our kids. He's got a master in mechanical engineering and is working on his PhD. Part of his job involves modeling and testing this sort of thing (for locomotives, but the principles are the same) so I think he knows what he's talking about. Currently he's working on the affects of impacts on various sorts of couplers and various methods of construction in the cars themselves.
Here's the thing. Pile up a bunch of bricks, without spacers. Now smack them. If you apply enough energy to break them all, you're fine. If you don't, then that energy will rebound into you, and it's quite likely to be you that breaks. Now put spacers between them. This time, if you fail to break them all, you'll still break some of them and the force rebounding into you will be the force you applied minus the force used to break some of the bricks. And so you don't break yourself.
That's why I don't use spacers on the speed break. If I fail the break, the bricks just fall over, so there's no rebound and I won't get hurt.
I prefer bricks because of their consistency. Their breaking characteristics are not affected by things like humidity. And they don't warp.