Last Person Thread #4

Status
Not open for further replies.
My concern is the rotors

Agree. Grinding is generally either pads totally gone and you're metal on metal, or the rotors are warped or really badly scored.

the upshot, though, is that it doesn't matter. In either case, you need to replace both the pads and the rotors.
 
Agree. Grinding is generally either pads totally gone and you're metal on metal, or the rotors are warped or really badly scored.

the upshot, though, is that it doesn't matter. In either case, you need to replace both the pads and the rotors.

You almost have to now a days since they all seem to run a single vein rotor the warps so darn easily... not like the good ole days of my 1970 Buick that had rotors that could stop a small artillery shell :D
 
Now tell me which pads are good to get. the car is old (2002 model) and I don't drive a lot (but a little lead fooded at times), and I am poor.
 
Now tell me which pads are good to get. the car is old (2002 model) and I don't drive a lot (but a little lead fooded at times), and I am poor.

Only if you promise to stop typing "breaks" (as in "doesn't work") when you mean "brakes" (as in "stops the car")...

Honestly, there is no real benefit to pricey pads/rotors unless you're pushing a modified car close to the limits. Just plain old pads from someplace like NAPA, AutoZone, etc. Same with rotors. Fancy drilled/slotted/coated with gold/whatever rotors might be useful on a high end performance car, but not on your typical street driven non-racing Granmobile.
 
Only if you promise to stop typing "breaks" (as in "doesn't work") when you mean "brakes" (as in "stops the car")...

Honestly, there is no real benefit to pricey pads/rotors unless you're pushing a modified car close to the limits. Just plain old pads from someplace like NAPA, AutoZone, etc. Same with rotors. Fancy drilled/slotted/coated with gold/whatever rotors might be useful on a high end performance car, but not on your typical street driven non-racing Granmobile.


I swear, I am trying not to say break, but brake. HONEST. (Bremse, if that's better :))
I got like the three top store pages open right now and look at everything from 20 bucks to over 60.
Happy middle ground, or do the 20 buck ones work alright?
Haven't even checked the rotors yet.
 
The cheap ones will work just fine. They tend to wear a little faster, but they're fine.
 
Must have

thebreaks.jpg


of course first you must get the Veyron to go with it :D

280px-Bugatti_Veyron_16.4_%E2%80%93_Frontansicht_(1),_5._April_2012,_D%C3%BCsseldorf.jpg
 
Ok, the rotor search is giving me a head ache.

The page says exact fit, but the reviews say it isn't (ford expedition), not once but twice....once I take the rotors off, I won't have another ride to the store!
 
Ok, the rotor search is giving me a head ache.

The page says exact fit, but the reviews say it isn't (ford expedition), not once but twice....once I take the rotors off, I won't have another ride to the store!

Model, year, engine size, transmission type, four wheel or two wheel drive, should be more than enough for them to figure it out at a dealer or a good parts store
 
I use Napa parts 90% of the time they seem to me to be better quality then the other parts stores. Plus around here the Napa guys actually know about cars. The other stores not so much
 
I use Napa parts 90% of the time they seem to me to be better quality then the other parts stores. Plus around here the Napa guys actually know about cars. The other stores not so much

I can't say I've noticed any difference in the parts, personally. NAPA is generally a bit more expensive than other places, but the staff does seem to be car guys, not counter monkeys.
I once went into an AutoZone to get a cam position sensor for a '98 Ram 5.9L and was told by the counter monkey that the 5.9L didn't have one.
Mind you, I had the dead part lying on the counter at the time...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest Discussions

Back
Top