bakxierboxer
Yellow Belt
The "S" is best for repetitive movements,since it tends to incorporate an "auto-retraction".Yesterday it rained and I didn't have a chance to practise but I got a good day in today. I managed to get the S(I think)-shaped forward crack down quite well and started hitting a plastic pipe with great accuracy and a loud CRACK. That was quite satisfying. =D
I'll try the C-shape tomorrow.
The "c", being "laid out" tends not to "come back" without an additional movement.
Most of the self-inflicted stuff is "just that"... tends to come when you're trying to keep the whip away from yourself.I actually only hit myself once today, but it was quite minor. At least when I was practising the forward crack. The side-arm... I have no ideas about it other than that I almost took off me head again.
Let it get/stay close and it will tend to "fly out" away from you.
Not familiar with or forgotten that term... my "whipping days"/usage was mostly in the 1970s.Infact, now that I've done a lot of research about whips I have discovered that for whatever reason my whip lacks a belly. It is, in fact, a belly with no outer layer.
The plaiting on a high-quality whip tends to be done *around* the core (orI have seen some diagrams and it is plaited the same was as bellies. I guess you were right and that it is a light whip, though I was still able to crack it quite well. It didn't sound like a cannon, though. I may try to apply some dressing later and I'll need to replace the cracker as well.
"belly"?).
The handle is built around a rotating core, and this prevents "bind" in the body of the whip.The keeper I was reffering to is common on stock whips and holds the handle and the thong together. Mine lacks that (The handle is imbedded into the thong) and a wrist loop. I'm not sure what a rotator is, but it probably doesn't have that.
"Cracking" is almost irrelevant... unless you intend to use it "for-show"/tricks/etc.I think that sounds like a great idea, but I have one question, then. Is the whip that I have suitable enough that I want to buy more? They are cheap, but is the quality also low? I know that cracks are as much the whip as the technique. Until I know that, I may have to make several more purchases.
As always, "you get what you pay for".
So long as these units "serve a purpose" they'll be adequate.
I have to guess that a high-quality whip these days will run in the $80 to $100 US range.... playing with a whip might easily not be worth that kind of money. let alone buying a "back up" or two.
Pete