Pistolcraft

The Draw...

1.Hand To Gun: Clear away clothing if necessary, get a good initial grip, high on the backstrap (it will only get worse from here under pressure). Relase any retention devices.


2.Clear Holster and Rotate Muzzle Towards Target: Get the muzzle pointed at the target with your forerarm close to your torso. Its a good retention position and you can start shooting from here if necessary. Keep the weak hand out of the way. I like to have it palm down on my belly.


3.Hands Together: As the gun moves forward meet the weak hand. You can stop here; muzzle forward, elbows in tight to torso in a "third eye" position (muzzle is third eye, where eyes go, muzzle goes) as a ready/search position if you need to. Otherwise it flows into...


4.Gun To Target: Simple enough. Should be smooth and straight to target, not a scooping upward sweep....


5.Front Sight/Trigger Squeeze: See last (long) post...
 
Tgace said:
The Draw...

1.Hand To Gun: Clear away clothing if necessary, get a good initial grip, high on the backstrap (it will only get worse from here under pressure). Relase any retention devices.


2.Clear Holster and Rotate Muzzle Towards Target: Get the muzzle pointed at the target with your forerarm close to your torso. Its a good retention position and you can start shooting from here if necessary. Keep the weak hand out of the way. I like to have it palm down on my belly.


3.Hands Together: As the gun moves forward meet the weak hand. You can stop here; muzzle forward, elbows in tight to torso in a "third eye" position (muzzle is third eye, where eyes go, muzzle goes) as a ready/search position if you need to. Otherwise it flows into...


4.Gun To Target: Simple enough. Should be smooth and straight to target, not a scooping upward sweep....


5.Front Sight/Trigger Squeeze: See last (long) post...
Tgace,

Good post, good information for all, I like to drop down a little (similar to horse stance or semi horse R or L leg forward or not) at the time when the weak hand and the gun hand meet to extend.

It all depends on the situation, again good post.

Regards, Gary
 
Target engagement.

I subscribe to the "shoot em to the ground" theory. Others like the "2 and assess" still others like the failure drill (2 to COM 1 to head), and so on. Opinions??
 
Tgace said:
Target engagement.

I subscribe to the "shoot em to the ground" theory. Others like the "2 and assess" still others like the failure drill (2 to COM 1 to head), and so on. Opinions??
Hi Tgace,

In days of old with revolvers, I liked the 2 and assess routine (only 6 available or 5 with a chief)...

In today's newer semi-auto big mags and extra ammo in belts on body, I think in a real fast exchange 5 and assess would be my thoughts.

"Shoot um to the ground" still sounds good though.

Regards, Gary
 
Tgace said:
Target engagement.

I subscribe to the "shoot em to the ground" theory. Others like the "2 and assess" still others like the failure drill (2 to COM 1 to head), and so on. Opinions??
I think that it depends on several factors: type of weapon, number of attackers, type of attack. For example, if I'm carrying a revolver or a single-stack 1911 I wouldn't want to put five or six in the first guy and only have one or two for the next one so in that case I'd probably go with 2 or 3 then assess. On the other hand, "shoot 'till they drop" is also a sound tactic (remember the pizza-guy shooting recently, it took 10 rounds to put the attacker down). I think like any other aspect of SD, we're talking about a dynamic situation. If I have a guy running towards me who continues to advance I'm not going to stop and assess, I'm going to shoot 'till he goes down or 'till the slide locks.
As far as targeting, I think COM is the way to go simply because trying to hit someone in the head is going to be quite a feat when your target isn't standing still, possibly shooting back, and you're opperating under an addrenaline dump. Recently in some of my reading I've noticed that some departments are starting to train their personel to shoot to the pelvis first (for example, 2 low 2 COM) when attacked by someone with an impact or edged weapon. The logic is that someone with one of the aforementioned weapons is only dangerous if they can actually hit/stab/slash you with it so by taking out the pelvis they are going to go down.
 
How do you shoot a failure drill?

Is that like the one my dad and his friends call a Mozambique drill from Africa?

I see people on tv shoot 3 fast shots is that it?

Thanks from a newbee
 
Escrima Demon said:
How do you shoot a failure drill?

Is that like the one my dad and his friends call a Mozambique drill from Africa?

I see people on tv shoot 3 fast shots is that it?

Thanks from a newbee
Yes...thats it.
 
Can't stress grip enough; get it right before clearing the holster.
Haven't heard it called "shoot 'em to the ground' before......but yeah, works for me.
Recently in some of my reading I've noticed that some departments are starting to train their personel to shoot to the pelvis first (for example, 2 low 2 COM) when attacked by someone with an impact or edged weapon. The logic is that someone with one of the aforementioned weapons is only dangerous if they can actually hit/stab/slash you with it so by taking out the pelvis they are going to go down.
Interesting....but I don't think I like it. I can see follow-ups to the pelvis, but not initial shots.
 
From Gabe Suarez's forum.....

http://www.warriortalk.com/showthread.php?t=3382&highlight=target+transition

AMBIDEXTROUS GUNFIGHTING

Go to any Force on Force class and watch the students. Invariably, youĀ’ll find the majority of them get shot in the hands. This is due to several factors. Primarily, the shooter is placing the gun midway between him and the adversary, thus any incoming rounds will likely impact the gun and hands. Secondly, the adversary may visually focus on the gun thus orienting his physical index toward the gun as he fires. And finally, it could just be pure chance. Nevertheless, if anything is going to be hit, its very likely to be the hands.

This brings up some interesting needs in training. The majority of shooters spend time training material they already know. Its an ego thing. The majority of shooters are also highly deficient in one handed shooting skills, or in shooting with their less dexterous hand. LetĀ’s remember that although firing a pistol with two hands generally yields better result, the weapon was intended to be a one-handed weapon. This leads us to an analysis of Ambidextrous Shooting (some call it Bi-Lateral Shooting). Specifically we need to address why its needed, when it may employed, and how to train the skill.

Other than the wounded shooter factor, are there any other situations where on-handed shooting would be required?

1). Movement Off Line Sometimes requires Firing On-Handed.

In our Close Range Gunfighting Series and its close cousin, the Interactive Gunfighting/Force on Force Classes, we establish early on that you must move off the line of attack. In fact, if you do not move, regardless of how fast your combat master draw is, you will get shot or stabbed by the other man. Remember that gunfights do not happen at ten yards, but rather ten feet and closer, thus the difference between a 1.0 second draw and a 1.5 second draw are not very great. As Lynn Thompson of Cold Steel pointed out a few years ago, Ā“proximity negates skillĀ”. At ten feet even a neophyte with a rusty Raven .25 Auto can get lucky, and ten feet is a long distance in true gunfighting. Movement off line is key and mandatory to avoid being shot.

When we move off line, we prefer to move laterally (3:00 or 9:00) , or at angles such as the 5:00, 7:00, or 2:00 and 10:00. We prefer to walk as God designed us to walk, forward. The popular sideways Ā“crab walkĀ” will not move you off the line fast enough. Similarly, almost never do we want to move backwards. Again, this is shown in force on force drills when every backpedaler gets literally run over by his adversary.

When moving at these angles its sometimes impossible to maintain a traditional two-handed grip on the pistol. Your goal is always to keep the muzzle pointed at the adversary. You maintain that objective and move your body around that orientation. Sometimes keeping a two-handed grip will be easy, at other times it will not. Rather than give up the objective of keeping muzzle on contact, you may need to go one-handed.

As an example take a right handed shooter moving to his left. At some point, he will be unable to maintain both hands on the gun, and the gun oriented on the threat as he moves. As the angle between him and his adversary grows, so will the tension in the torso, requiring he let go with the support hand to keep the muzzle on target. One handed shooting.

2). The Use Of Back-up Guns As An Immediate Action Response

Many students are carrying secondary weapons as a true non-diagnostic immediate action response for a malfunctioning gun. You can certainly discard the malfunctioned gun and shoot the BUG (back up gun) two-handed, but perhaps in a dynamic environment it may be a better choice to transition the Ā“jammed upĀ” gun to one hand, and draw the BUG one handed.

3). Tactical Necessity in Moving/Clearing Operations

While not everyone will need to Ā“clearĀ” a house, the possibility of having to move tactically through a hostile environment may easily occur. Moving (or its tactical relative, Ā“clearingĀ”) are all based on the study of cornering. There are right side corners and left side corners. It may be a wise option in many cases to transition the pistol to the opposite hand to carefully move through an uncomfortable corner such as a right handed shooter clearing a left handed corner.

4). Gunfights Are Close Ā–

This may require firing from a weapon retention position, or in some cases, shooting at the close range envelop when the other hand is occupied in striking/deflecting a blow, responding from seated positions as in a vehicle, and of course, in the event you are injured.

5). Injured Shooter

Finally, as we mentioned earlier, there are situations when you may be injured and unable to maintain a two-handed hold due to injury. The idea that you Ā“will be shot in any gunfightĀ” is silly. However, there is always a possibility that you may be shot. But understand that nearly 80% of those shot with handguns survive, so even if youĀ’ve been hit, keep fighting. Cultivate a spirit of never giving in. While you still have blood in your veins and breath in your lungs, keep fighting.

Ambidextrous shooting skill is one of those things we were led to believe was impossible or untrainable. Not true my friends. It not only possible, but as we discussed, necessary for a complete education of the gunfighter. Like any other martial skill, all it takes is judicious practice. Practice not only shooting one-handed, but also with the support (weak) hand, and with the support side two-handed grip. And get good at transferring the gun from one hand to the next as needed. Thus you can shoot right one-handed or left one-handed, and right two-handed or left two-handed. There is some skill transfer to the other side, but go slow at first until the other side catches up. Pay particular attention to trigger finger placement (on trigger or on index point). The strong side is generally well-trained in terms of trigger finger placement. Not so with the left so be careful.

One Handed Drawing

Drawing one handed, strong side is no big deal, but it makes for a slightly different draw stroke. Train it, because at bad breath range, you may need it. If you are wounded, you might experience dropping the weapon as you draw, so practice picking it up and fighting. Also, remember the dynamics of the gunfighting (for some of you look at Force On Force). Will you have the time, or the ability to stand still and reach around the back for the gun as Mongo is closing in with his Bowie knife? I'm not saying yes or no, but rather simply offering it up for discussion.

Support side drawing with an open ended time frame while stationary on the range is one thing. Support side draw from under real concealment, on the move, under fire? Different thing altogether.

One Handed Gun Manipulations

Other things to study are keeping the gun loaded and fixing any malfunctions that come up. The only time you would ever need to do this is if you are wounded. All situations where the gun fails to fire (for any reason) are initially responded to with a Ā“Knee/Rack/PointĀ”, reminiscent of the tap/rack. That is you knee the magazine bottom, hook the rear sight on your belt (or holster, or cover, orĀ…) rack the slide, and point in. As you are conducting this maneuver and moving, you are analyzing the gun. (Did the clearance fix it? Is it still out of battery? Can I see brass?). If the Knee/Rack/Point didnĀ’t fix it, you have either a Feedway Stoppage (Fail To Extract), or an Empty Gun.

To keep the gun loaded you will do the reactive (empty gun) reload and the proactive (tactical) reload the same way. Keep it simple grasshopper. You are already wounded so why complicate matters. Secure the pistol in holster, waistband or under the arm Ā– remove empty (or partially empty) magazine Ā– replace with full magazine Ā– rack the slide if needed by using the rear sight to hook onto your belt, holster or other item Ā– keep fighting.

Notice I didnĀ’t say to secure the pistol between the knees. I know all about cover, but its rarely available in a reactive gunfight. Even if it was, you will still need to get to it. DonĀ’t do anything that would compromise your mobility. Got a holster on? Stick the gun in the holster right way or reversed. No holster? Stick the gun in the waistband. CanĀ’t do that? Then put the gun in your armpit, muzzle rear. Adapt and overcome!

To clear the Feedway Stoppage/Failure To Extract, you will use the same procedure, but add a series of Ā“RacksĀ”, before reloading to clear out the chamber.

Developing ambidextrous (or Bilateral) skill with your weapons is not an easy thing, but it is important. Historically, the best warriors were the ones who could fight with either side as the situation demanded. DavidĀ’s Mighty Men, for example, could Ā“shoot arrows and sling stones with either the right or the left handĀ” (1Ch 12:2). The day of being lop-sided gunmen is past. Get good with both hands, and you will have doubled your combat survivability.
__________________

Gabe Suarez
Suarez International USA, Inc.
__________________
Gabe Suarez
Suarez International USA, Inc.
303 East Gurley Street, Suite 461
Prescott, Arizona 86301 USA
Office 928-776-4492
Fax 928-776-8218
Mobile 928-308-1512
[email protected]
 
On that note... how many here shoot some percentage of their regular qualification courses using their non-dominant hand as primary??
 
Small percentage, and not as a dept. qual...just as familiarization. SWAT, yes...shield work necessitates it.
 
Small percentage, and not as a dept. qual...just as familiarization

Maybe two years ago we started requiring a non-dominant hand scored course at least once a year...oooo the outrage. It has actually gone pretty well, times are slower, but scores are not that much lower. The rest of the state has declined to include this but of lunacy in their programs though...

What was cool; they threw some of this at us as a "extra challenge" at Blackwater; interesting to see how many people had not done a lot of work with it- and this among a largely self-selected group of highly motivated people.
 
Stance:

When we talk about 'Stance', we usually are referring to a static position. One we would use on a shooting range. While this works shooting groups, shooting bullseye, etc. , it does not reflect the reality of handgun engagements.

The fundamentals:
1) Find the target
2) Get the gun to the target
3) Keep the gun aimed there until it fires.

Easier said than done, but if you can do these three things in all situations, you will never miss. In order to do this you need what IPSC shooters call "Index and Mobility".

Index is your body position from the waist up, this is what aligns your gun to the target. Im using a Modern Isoceles example here...

1) Shoulders square to the target
2) Arms extended equally without locking, no push-pull here but rather push-push
3) Both hands grip the pistol as high as possible
4) Once position is assumed nothing from the hips up should move.

The purpose of all this is to allow your body to naturally align the gun with the target. Sighting now is almost only used for confirmation except at longer distances.

Mobility is from the hips down. Whether that means running to a position or shooting on the move. The legs keep you in motion, and set you up to shoot. Index does the shooting, mobility gets you there. Move only as fast as you can hit. Any movement is good, better to walk and hit than run and waste ammo.....

You want the upper body to remain relatively stationary, not rigid or locked you still want some flexibility in the arms to deal with recoil, but the lower body should be completely unlocked. Your knees, hips, etc. should be flexed. This allows your legs to turn your body to face targets, or move you out of a position as soon as the shooting is done. Also you must be loose when shooting on the move. Walking with stiff legs will cause your sights to bounce wildly. Your legs also keep you balanced when shooting. Foot position is irrelevant to your overall stance as long as you maintain balance.

Try to get out of the habit of shooting from a 'Stance', experiment with shooting from unusual positions. Feel how your body adapts to the shooting if your primary focus is on hitting the targets, not having a picture perfect stance as described in a book. Learn to do whatever it takes to:

1) Find the target
2) Get the gun to the target
3) Keep the gun there until it fires
 
Correcting Trigger Slap:

Shooters moving from slowfire to rapid fire often move their trigger fingers all the way off the trigger between shots. This has a couple of negative effects. First, it takes time. Second, it leads to inaccuracy because the tendency is to slap the trigger on the second and subsequent shots.

To fix this, follow through on your shots with your trigger finger. Hold the trigger back all the way through recoil. When the sights are again aligned slowly release the trigger until the link re-engages. Then press to make the next shot.

Once you know how far to release the trigger of your gun, both accuracy and speed improve.
 
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