My Homemade Mook Jong...

[IrishMonk]

http://www.martialtalk.com/forum/album.php?albumid=153

Ok, well here's my homemade mook jong... I'm not completely finished, I still need to install the leg and decide on a space saving stand ( I have a couple options in mind ).
I chose to build this after looking into purchasing one... it was WAY too expensive and too big. So, I went and got a 6"x6' post for the body and a 1 1/4"x6' closet hanger pole for the arms.
After all the sanding I drilled 1 1/4" holes for the arms...the arms being the same size would not fit, which was perfect. After sanding the rear end of the arms to fit into the body, the front portion would not slide back into the body. I drilled holes in the back of the arms and used bolts and nuts to secure them.
I then stenciled the "Wing Chun Kuen" characters onto the front and went over them with a charcoal pencil...then sealed the charcoal with about 20 coats of shellac lol.
All angles and measurments I got from 'Close Range Combat Wing Chun' vol 3 by Randy Williams.

This cost me about $65.00 after everything, including sandpaper, shellac etc. ( ofcourse the stand is pending ) I cant see myself going over $100.00 for a completed mook jong with stand.

This will be a quality mook jong that is easily broken down and slid under my bed between uses, stand and all. I just wanted to share with everyone that a good mook jong could be made simply and for WAY less than 6-800 dollars. I have spent maybe 4 hours on this project all togather.

Peace...

 

[dosk3n]

Thats just brilliant.

Looks like the arms are a bit long i them pics but it is great.

Off to price this up tomorow.

Dean.

 

[Poor Uke]

Nice!!

 

[IrishMonk]

Thats just brilliant.

Looks like the arms are a bit long i them pics but it is great.

Off to price this up tomorow.

Dean.

The arms are 12"... it called for 11 and 1/2". I may take them down a 1/2 inch or so...

thanks.

 

[Boozmork]

This is great, I wish I had an ounce of carpentry skills. Good work though man.

 

[dosk3n]

The arms are 12"... it called for 11 and 1/2". I may take them down a 1/2 inch or so...

thanks.

Its probably that its ment to be half an inch shorter and the fact that the shape usually has them go thinner at the front that makes the original look like theyre a bit shorter.

Still amazing though and Im going to have to try and find a good guide.

 

[IrishMonk]

Its probably that its ment to be half an inch shorter and the fact that the shape usually has them go thinner at the front that makes the original look like theyre a bit shorter.

Still amazing though and Im going to have to try and find a good guide.

Here is a very good guide from kung fu magazine. the actual plans are in pdf at the bottom of the article. The hardest part is trying to drill the holes at the correct angle...the plans show how to get those angles easily. http://ezine.kungfumagazine.com/ezine/article.php?article=677

 

[dungeonworks]

FANTASTIC WORK Irish! THANKS for sharing this gem! :ultracool

 

[zepedawingchun]

Irish Monk, please don't be offended, but the space between the arms at the tip should be between 8 and 8 1/2 inches from the center of the arms, at their tips. This is so the jong's arms aid in getting your elbows down and closer to center when punching and doing hand motions forward, cutting angles from forward (with bong sao), and stepping in from the sides. At the tips, the arms should also be the same height to each other.

 

[IrishMonk]

Irish Monk, please don't be offended, but the space between the arms at the tip should be between 8 and 8 1/2 inches from the center of the arms, at their tips. This is so the jong's arms aid in getting your elbows down and closer to center when punching and doing hand motions forward, cutting angles from forward (with bong sao), and stepping in from the sides. At the tips, the arms should also be the same height to each other.

No offense taken...

I know these arms look too long and the gap too wide, but it's just an optical illusion I guess. The actual gap from center arm to center arm at the end is 9.25" . The arms themselves are a tad long by 1/2"... so after I trim those I'll be right at 8.5 or 8.75 at the most...the angles are correct.

Secondly, traditionally the arms were not parallel to each other, and there is some debate about which way is correct, etc. here is an article briefly talking about this subject. http://www.wingchunpedia.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php?n=WCP.MukYanJong Basically from what I gather it's a matter of preference... I chose non parallel simply because it is easier, and it feels fine.

In this short clip of Ip Man, you can clearly see the non parallel arms on the dummy... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NiMQFiqAl8&feature=related

thanks for all the responses :ultracool

 

[zepedawingchun]

Secondly, traditionally the arms were not parallel to each other, and there is some debate about which way is correct, etc. here is an article briefly talking about this subject. http://www.wingchunpedia.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php?n=WCP.MukYanJong Basically from what I gather it's a matter of preference... I chose non parallel simply because it is easier, and it feels fine.

In this short clip of Ip Man, you can clearly see the non parallel arms on the dummy... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NiMQFiqAl8&feature=related

thanks for all the responses :ultracool

The arms are not supposed to be parellel, just the tip of them at the same height. The top arm angles downward, the bottom arm angles upward which you make the tip of them equal height.

 

[IrishMonk]

The arms are not supposed to be parellel, just the tip of them at the same height. The top arm angles downward, the bottom arm angles upward which you make the tip of them equal height.

Ah, I see what you're saying. That was'nt mentioned in the book I got the plans from. But I'll keep it in mind if I build another one...

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[tshadowchaser]

Well done.

It is much better price wise to make your own if you have the equipment and time.