Me teaching

HEMA guy here. It's true that sword design has to compromise between optimizing for cutting vs thrusting. Historically sword design ranged all the way from cut-only to thrust-only, but the large majority were somewhere in the middle ground where they could deliver both cuts and thrusts which could be lethal or disabling. Some were squarely in the middle where they could do both easily, but weren't the absolute best at either, while others were optimized to do one better than the other.

Modern Olympic fencing weapons are mostly pretty different from historical swords, except that the foil and epee are derived from the small sword, which was an unusually specialized weapon.

The small sword was the closest functional analogue to the foil and epee used in modern Olympic fencing. A side arm for dueling, it was very light, easy to carry, allowed excellent point control, and typically had no cutting edge at all. (Even those designs which did include a cutting edge probably included it primarily to prevent the opponent from grabbing the blade rather than for offensive purposes.) It's one of the few sword designs I know of which is all the way over on the thrust end of the cut/thrust optimization continuum. Another would be the estoc, which was a very different design for a very different context.
Thank you Tony! Wonderful information. Very much appreciated.
 
A: Why do you train kick/punch on a heavy bag?
B: I try to develop kick/punch power.
A Do you intend to hurt somebody?
B: ...

What's will be your answer if you are B?
Only if there is no other option than to physically defend myself
 
Train

- throw a knife.
- dodge throwing knife.
- plastic knife fight.
- jump off the roof top.
- jump out of a chest level hole.
- ...

Today, nobody wants to train those anymore. IMO, the previous generation may train "more complete MA" than today's generation does.
My school trains with different weapons but I am not at that level yet, though I have trained with bokken in the past.
 
Small sword was a style of sword in Europe at one time. You obviously have a lot more knowledge and experience of the subject. I love all things historical but I have very little swordsmanship. I’m an armchair swordsman. I have only done much with the one sword I own which is a Sabre with a 32” blued blade. I’m in no way proficient with it. It’s just a fun thing for me. I appreciate the pictures, very nice collection. I had eyes on a collector sword at one time from Albion called the lady vivamus. It’s beautiful. I believe they only made 500 of them.
I grew up not far from where Albion has their workshop. I don’t know when they started operations So maybe they were not around at the time. But it is an hour or so from my hometown.
 
HEMA guy here. It's true that sword design has to compromise between optimizing for cutting vs thrusting. Historically sword design ranged all the way from cut-only to thrust-only, but the large majority were somewhere in the middle ground where they could deliver both cuts and thrusts which could be lethal or disabling. Some were squarely in the middle where they could do both easily, but weren't the absolute best at either, while others were optimized to do one better than the other.

Modern Olympic fencing weapons are mostly pretty different from historical swords, except that the foil and epee are derived from the small sword, which was an unusually specialized weapon.

The small sword was the closest functional analogue to the foil and epee used in modern Olympic fencing. A side arm for dueling, it was very light, easy to carry, allowed excellent point control, and typically had no cutting edge at all. (Even those designs which did include a cutting edge probably included it primarily to prevent the opponent from grabbing the blade rather than for offensive purposes.) It's one of the few sword designs I know of which is all the way over on the thrust end of the cut/thrust optimization continuum. Another would be the estoc, which was a very different design for a very different context.
Good info, thanks!
 
Wow, that is quite nice! Kind of a cutlass but somewhat more gracile. That price tag is one reason I don’t own any Albion pieces. My best pieces were made by Angus Trim, and I built the hilts and scabbards.
Angus is pretty famous. That price is why I don’t own it. That and the fact I have no business owning a sword like that when I have no skill with it.
 
Angus is pretty famous. That price is why I don’t own it. That and the fact I have no business owning a sword like that when I have no skill with it.
Angus’ work is well respected. I don’t know if he is still making them.

The price tag is a plenty good reason to not own something. If it is financially out of your reach or simply out of your comfort zone, there is little to argue about.

But otherwise I would argue against the notion that you have no business owning it. Be careful and mindful in handling it, so nobody gets hurt. Don’t pretend you know what you are doing, and think you can teach yourself. That goes a long way in not doing something careless or stupid that would lead to injury. Understand and respect your own limits, and respect the hazardous nature of the item. Then, if you can afford it, own it and don’t apologize for it.
 
Angus’ work is well respected. I don’t know if he is still making them.

The price tag is a plenty good reason to not own something. If it is financially out of your reach or simply out of your comfort zone, there is little to argue about.

But otherwise I would argue against the notion that you have no business owning it. Be careful and mindful in handling it, so nobody gets hurt. Don’t pretend you know what you are doing, and think you can teach yourself. That goes a long way in not doing something careless or stupid that would lead to injury. Understand and respect your own limits, and respect the hazardous nature of the item. Then, if you can afford it, own it and don’t apologize for it.
I respect all weaponry and I take no chances when handling blades, firearms or venomous snakes. Caution is always required. I would love to own a few snakes that I may not have in California. I know the risks and I have the skills but my wife and the state say I have no business with them. I like my fingers and would like to keep them intact.
 
Angus’ work is well respected. I don’t know if he is still making them.

The price tag is a plenty good reason to not own something. If it is financially out of your reach or simply out of your comfort zone, there is little to argue about.

But otherwise I would argue against the notion that you have no business owning it. Be careful and mindful in handling it, so nobody gets hurt. Don’t pretend you know what you are doing, and think you can teach yourself. That goes a long way in not doing something careless or stupid that would lead to injury. Understand and respect your own limits, and respect the hazardous nature of the item. Then, if you can afford it, own it and don’t apologize for it.
I’m limited to this guy, for whom I have a permit.
 

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I would love to own Ophiophagus hannah, but Drymarchon couperii is the next best thing. This is Bolo, he is just wonderful. Non aggressive, non venomous,not a constrictor, the longest snake in North America. He is captive bred but the wild version is on the brink of extinction.
 
Of course not.
Ah well, all that talk of having the right permits, and wanting various venomous snakes, etc., had me wondering. I think I’ve see pictures of cobras with a mostly solid dark coloration. And the shape of the head and face seemed similar. So I took a guess.

I would be terrified of some accident that would compromise the security of the tank, if I had a venomous snake.
 
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