What do you use to clean your dobak?
- Thread starter TKDinAK
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ralphmcpherson
Senior Master
Napisan works pretty well. I learnt early on though, never to let sweat dry on the uniform. As soon as I get home it goes through the wash, and if for some reason I cant wash it then and there, I just leave it in a bucket of water till I can wash it, but I never let it dry with sweat on it.
I'm wioth Ralph on this. Once they start turning yellow, I just give up and replace them.
What blasphemy is this? Not wanting Your Dobok to be covered in blood and grit, and drenched in sweat, and stained with the rigors of combat!
...Napisan does indeed work pretty well
...Napisan does indeed work pretty well
ralphmcpherson
Senior Master
Hey, I never said I condone the removal of bloodWhat blasphemy is this? Not wanting Your Dobok to be covered in blood and grit, and drenched in sweat, and stained with the rigors of combat!
...Napisan does indeed work pretty well
The trick is to not wear them continuously without washing them. I have at least 30 v necks, if not more, and I rotate them. I only wear them once and then throw them in them in the wash.
Like Puunui said,
OWN MORE THAN 1 and rotate wearing them. Like anything you wear, the more you wear it the faster it will wear-out. Its not ment to last forever.
I never understood why people would own a different shirt for each day of the week, yet try to own the same single dobuk from white belt to black belt.
OWN MORE THAN 1 and rotate wearing them. Like anything you wear, the more you wear it the faster it will wear-out. Its not ment to last forever.
I never understood why people would own a different shirt for each day of the week, yet try to own the same single dobuk from white belt to black belt.
This works well on white cotton material that has yellowed:
http://www.amazon.com/Mrs-Stewarts-Bluing-8oz/dp/B001NEMV3Q
It should be noted that too much bleach can yellow white cloth also. The temptation is always to use a bit more bleach when it doesn't get white clothes really white, but it can have the opposite effect. Bluing works well for me, also in moderation. I'd suggest testing it on something else first, but I've had good results with it.
http://www.amazon.com/Mrs-Stewarts-Bluing-8oz/dp/B001NEMV3Q
It should be noted that too much bleach can yellow white cloth also. The temptation is always to use a bit more bleach when it doesn't get white clothes really white, but it can have the opposite effect. Bluing works well for me, also in moderation. I'd suggest testing it on something else first, but I've had good results with it.
Earl Weiss
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Before you wash it put full strength liquid laundry detergent on the stains and let it soak for a few minutes before you toss it in the wash.
Works for lots of stains.
You may need to do this a few times but you can wear it in between rather than just washing it a few times in a row.
Report back.
rlobrecht
Brown Belt
I found I have to wear a t-shirt under my dobok (Under Armor performance type shirt.) It keeps me more comfortable, and significantly reduces the amount of sweat that makes it to the dobok. I have 4 doboks, two of which are colored (which are easier to keep clean looking, but are fading.)
Steve
Mostly Harmless
I actually have an entire blog article on washing the gi. All of the items also apply to doboks.
http://www.stevebjj.com/2009/07/01/washing-the-bjj-gi/
For yellowing, I'd try using white vinegar. It's dirt cheap and way better for your clothes than bleach. Seriously. I use it in the wash instead of bleach. It's also good in the rinse, in lieu of fabric softener. I typically use about 1/2 cup for each, but if you're looking at yellowing, you might try a little more. And vinegar help with bacteria, which can cause odor.
And don't worry. Your clothes will not smell at all like vinegar.
Bluing agents also work okay for clothes that are dingy overall. But it's going to mask the yellow by basically color correcting it. The end result is that the stains will still be there. They'll just be less... yellow. It's exactly what it sounds like. Blue and yellow are complementary colors, so when you mix them together, the clothes look like a brighter white.
Personally, I'd recommend you try white vinegar. And read my blog. But if you're only going to do one or the other, try white vinegar.
http://www.stevebjj.com/2009/07/01/washing-the-bjj-gi/
For yellowing, I'd try using white vinegar. It's dirt cheap and way better for your clothes than bleach. Seriously. I use it in the wash instead of bleach. It's also good in the rinse, in lieu of fabric softener. I typically use about 1/2 cup for each, but if you're looking at yellowing, you might try a little more. And vinegar help with bacteria, which can cause odor.
And don't worry. Your clothes will not smell at all like vinegar.
Bluing agents also work okay for clothes that are dingy overall. But it's going to mask the yellow by basically color correcting it. The end result is that the stains will still be there. They'll just be less... yellow. It's exactly what it sounds like. Blue and yellow are complementary colors, so when you mix them together, the clothes look like a brighter white.
Personally, I'd recommend you try white vinegar. And read my blog. But if you're only going to do one or the other, try white vinegar.
Steve is exactly right. I spray white vinegar right onto the armpits and it prevents the yellow stains. I also agree with everybody else that you wash it right when you get home. Also speed stick makes a product that prevents your armpits from getting the yellow stains that works pretty well.
Hope it helps!
Hope it helps!
Gwai Lo Dan
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I agree!
- Thread Starter
- #14
The only time I have worn the same dobak without washing is when I've done class twice in one day without the ability to get my other dobak. That's only happened a couple of times. Frankly, I sweat a lot... and I REALLY don't like having to get back into a cold, damp dobak.I normally don't wash them directly after use, as most of my classes are at noon and I go back to work. And there's many times when I don't have a good load of whites to wash, so they can sit for a day or two before they get washed. That's likely the yellowing culprit. But I do wash after every use.
The yellowing isn't horrible... can't really notice it in a crowd unless I'm standing next to a bright new dobak. I don't really need or have a wish for a bright white uni... just want to find a way to get them a little cleaner looking, and then how to keep new ones cleaner, longer. I think I have some good directions and ideas... thanks to the good folks here!
Borax (boric acid) is another good cheap solution to remove stingy sweat stains. Not harsh like bleach and has been used for 1,000's of years. For hard stains, make a paste and rub it in, let it soak for a while, then wash.
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OxyClean helps, and doesn't harm the cotton fabric at all.
For those who want the same chemical, but don't want to pay for the brand name, Sun makes an oxygen cleaner as well (same stuff), at a fraction of the price.
For those who want the same chemical, but don't want to pay for the brand name, Sun makes an oxygen cleaner as well (same stuff), at a fraction of the price.
Steve
Mostly Harmless
Just a quick primer on some common laundry additives.
There are three things you'll find in the laundry aisle, and they all work pretty well.
The first is Sodium Carbonate, aka Soda Ash or Washing Soda. This should cost you about $1 per pound and it's very easy to find. Arm and Hammer and several other brand names are available. Washing soda is a strong base and can neutralize a lot of odors that are caused by acids. It's also good on stains (particularly oily stains like grease), and works well as a paste, but it's more caustic than baking powder, so wear gloves. If you have hard water, washing soda is a great water softener.
The second is Sodium BiCarbonate, aka Baking Soda. It's also very cheap. Baking soda can also be very good at neutralizing odors and personally, I'd recommend this over washing soda on all but the most stubborn odors and stains. Also softens hard water.
The third is Sodium PerCarbonate aka OxyClean. It's basically a combination of hydrogen peroxide and Washing Soda in a powder. If you guys haven't tried straight hydrogen peroxide on a fresh bloodstain, it's awesome. Gets it right out of the white gi/dobok.
There's also Sodium Borate, aka Borax or washing power.
Point is, if you look at the ingredients or online for the chemical name, you'll find these items much cheaper than if you search for brand names.
There are three things you'll find in the laundry aisle, and they all work pretty well.
The first is Sodium Carbonate, aka Soda Ash or Washing Soda. This should cost you about $1 per pound and it's very easy to find. Arm and Hammer and several other brand names are available. Washing soda is a strong base and can neutralize a lot of odors that are caused by acids. It's also good on stains (particularly oily stains like grease), and works well as a paste, but it's more caustic than baking powder, so wear gloves. If you have hard water, washing soda is a great water softener.
The second is Sodium BiCarbonate, aka Baking Soda. It's also very cheap. Baking soda can also be very good at neutralizing odors and personally, I'd recommend this over washing soda on all but the most stubborn odors and stains. Also softens hard water.
The third is Sodium PerCarbonate aka OxyClean. It's basically a combination of hydrogen peroxide and Washing Soda in a powder. If you guys haven't tried straight hydrogen peroxide on a fresh bloodstain, it's awesome. Gets it right out of the white gi/dobok.
There's also Sodium Borate, aka Borax or washing power.
Point is, if you look at the ingredients or online for the chemical name, you'll find these items much cheaper than if you search for brand names.
ralphmcpherson
Senior Master
I mainly train in a black uniform. Does anyone have any tips to help prevent fading? They tend to go "grey" after a short time.
wool lite for dark clothes...
but in reality, no, they will fade.
if you don't have patches on them (or don't mind redoing them a few times) you can use the stuff that dies your clothes in the washing machine.
but in reality, no, they will fade.
if you don't have patches on them (or don't mind redoing them a few times) you can use the stuff that dies your clothes in the washing machine.
