steel targets

Tgace

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I love em...there's nothing like immediate feedback. There is still a lot to be said for paper target drills when perfecting technique and working on specific things, but steel really adds a dimension to your training you can't get otherwise.

I have some small disks I hang from shepherd hooks.

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I also have a permanently mounted steel "street sign" (as I like to call it).

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My most recent purchase was of a portable steel target system.

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The important thing to remember if you are buying a steel target is to get AR500 (or 550) steel. AR500 is "harder" steel than the "mild" steel you typically find (cold rolled/hot rolled). I know of some garage DIYers who thought they could just weld some scrap steel together only to find out that not all steel is declared equal when it comes to stopping bullets.

You also have to be aware of some safety factors. The angle of the plate to the ground is important when it comes to minimizing ricochet and splash...as is your distance from the target, depending on what you are shooting it with.


 
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There is ammo that can penetrate steel targets, makes it light up like a Christmas tree.
 
You don't use green tip or 1 oz slugs on steel targets.

Well...you CAN shoot slugs at em, but you better know your ranges and your target type. The biggest risk with slugs is ricochet and chunks of lead splattering about. I never found it worth it unless you have the $$ for frangible.
 
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There is ammo that can penetrate steel targets, makes it light up like a Christmas tree.

There is ammo that can penetrate a tank. Kind of irrelevant, since anybody who is shooting steel will either know better than to use ammo intended to penetrate steel, or they're doing it intentionally.
 
We shoot indoors, so it's paper targets only, but when I've had the opportunity to shoot steel, I've really enjoyed it.
 
I like the immediate feedback from steel targets as well. I do not have a personal one like your recent purchase so I am jealous Tgace! ;)
 
I've mentioned that my favorite firearm is a Raven 25. It's what I've shot the best with in combat training for thirty years. To me, not missing takes precedent over knock down power. But at outdoor ranges, at long range with steel targets - I hit the target but it never goes down. I don't care even when my boys laugh at me, which is most of the time.

I don't care if I knock them down, I just want to get their attention. :)
 
I've mentioned that my favorite firearm is a Raven 25. It's what I've shot the best with in combat training for thirty years. To me, not missing takes precedent over knock down power. But at outdoor ranges, at long range with steel targets - I hit the target but it never goes down. I don't care even when my boys laugh at me, which is most of the time.

I don't care if I knock them down, I just want to get their attention. :)

The thing is, "knock down power" is a myth, when it comes to handguns.
The damage done to the human body is essentially identical with any modern centerfire defensive handgun round. Doesn't matter if it's a .380 or a .45.
What matters is accuracy. Hit something vital and they drop. Don't, and they don't.
This may not have been true in the past, but ammunition has improved, and it's certainly true now.
 
To play the physics game... What really matters is mass and velocity. A rifle round whacking you at one or two thousand FPS is gonna have an entirely different effect than a pistol round of the same or less mass only traveling at hundreds of FPS.

I agree, "knockdown" power is a misnomer. If you think about physics, how would the impact of a bullet have more striking force than the recoil you get when you fire the gun? What you get is variance in penetration and wound channel when bullet weight, caliber, velocity and design factors are taken into account.

While the difference between most "major calibers" is likely negligible, I think smaller caliber pistols have the advantage of concealability and likelihood of carry (for some)...and that's about it.
 
Tgace, what kind of range do you normally shoot at the steel with? I'd always been told you should be 25+ yards from the target when shooting steel. Looked like you were closer than that for the pistol vid. I'm pretty intrigued in the targets on that company's page tbh.

Thanks
 
If you're using the right smmo, you should be able to shoot from 7 to 10 yards comfortably.

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About 7yds for pistol. 25 more or less for rifle. I have been struck by small pieces of pistol jacket before (not with the latest target) but nothing that concerned me as long as I had eye protection on.

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About 7yds for pistol. 25 more or less for rifle. I have been struck by small pieces of pistol jacket before (not with the latest target) but nothing that concerned me as long as I had eye protection on.

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Heck..regular berms have kicked back more debris at me than steel over the years.

Like JKS said, bullet type is important. In general...any regular FMJ is going to be fine. You can get even closer with frangible, avoid any type of bullet with a "core" of any type and I avoid 1 oz slugs simply because of the quantity of lead that will splash off of the target.
 
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I have one of these at my cabin. I use it mostly for .22s and .38 specials, as it is marked as a handgun target, and I'm not too convinced about the strength of parts of it's construction. The steel disks are durable enough, but some of the supporting structure is hollow, and don't seem too robust.

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I have one of these at my cabin. I use it mostly for .22s and .38 specials, as it is marked as a handgun target, and I'm not too convinced about the strength of parts of it's construction. The steel disks are durable enough, but some of the supporting structure is hollow, and don't seem too robust.

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Those targets wont hold up too long against centerfire rifle rounds. Handguns and. 22s are about it.

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Agree. I don't even shoot .357 magnums from my Marlin carbine at it, because of the extra velocity gained from the longer barrel (158grain rounds tend to leave the barrel in the 1800fps range).
 
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