self defense against a dog

[Cruentus]

Ultimately the breed is less important then how well can the dog do the work asked of him.

I agree. I like A. bulldogs and Malinois. We've had a lady work out with us a couple of times who had a Malinois who took her to a few championships as well. The dog looked great; it had such a willingness to please and was extremely well rounded. We've had Bulldogs work out with us as well who looked good. I don't have a shepard either; I have an American Pit Bull Terrier who does alright (he would do better if I was more of a dilligent trainer with him), but is exceptional at tracking of all things (why we are SAR focused).

So I agree; breed is not as important as the individual dog (motivation and skills) and the trainer/training method. A lot of people in sports tend to be overly breed biased, which is a mistake, I think. I have had a lot of people tell me that my APBT won't be a great tracker or air scenter because they believed Bulldogs and Pits have shorter noses and fewer olifactory cells. But then my dog demonstrates a great tracking ability, violating the prejeduce. They neglected the fact that there is a lot more to scenting then amount of olofactory cells, such as size and efficiency of the olofactory bulb and vomeronasal organ, and motivation, for example. So, you can't judge a dog by its breed, really.

Anyway, nice talking to you. I know who to PM on this board if I need any dog advice!

 

[Neal]

Mike Swick, UFC fighter taking some bites from a Military dog. Yes Mike is running away and not fighting the dog. That being said, a trained UFC fighter doesnt even have the balance to take a hit and stay on his feet. Also notice where the dog is biting. It makes striking difficult. Plus if the dog cranked you like that without the suit on, most submit immediatly.

 

[Cris]

Around here stray dogs are common and you don't even go for a walk without a nice big stick to smack any aggressive dogs, but I have found staring at a dog like you're going to kill it if it gets closer keeps most of them away(I've done it.. its funny when they keep barking from a distance. It helps that I'm not the least bit scared of the dogs around here.). Also some dogs are so stupid physical harm won't deter them for a minute or so... my dad got attacked by a pitbull and shot it with rat shot and the thing didn't even notice.

 

[tradrockrat]

some interesting stuff here. My .02?

We (humans) have a huge adbvantage over a nieghborhood dog. They never learned to bite right, they never learned to fight humans right, and we have the brains to beat them if we use it.

A wild dog is another story, they fight to live, they are used to pain, and they know the stakes - you had better put that dog down hard and fast.

A trained dog is a mother. I was a helper for a schutzhund club in Maryland for a while (that means I took the bites on a sleeve or body suit). They know how, and where to hit and they come at you like a bullet. German shepards hit at 35 MPH. Rotties hit like frieght trains. I was never knocked over by any dog other than Rotties (120 lbs of kinetic energy), but the german sheperds hit fast. Oh yeah - even throught the sleeve the bites hurt your arm - a strong Rottie will snap your forearm like a dry stick.

Now having said all that, my personal opinion is that if you keep your head you are going to win an encounter with a dog, but you will get hurt. don't waste time with anything fancy like kicking legs - I've found myself on the recieving end of three dog attacks outside of the club, and they are flat out faster than you can ever imagine. I grew up in a heavily wooded stretch close to farm land. We had wild dogs and everybody owned dogs as well. I have a nice scar on my right arm from a St. Bernard K-9 tooth, but I beat that dog so hard he yelped and snapped at his own foot and ran away. I punched his head repeatedly and stomped his paw with all my weight.

I held off a feral dog with a big damn stick and screams / yells, but I had to hit that damn thing full in the ribs (as it latched onto my pants leg) before I was finally able to get him to give up the chase / fight. At one point it grabbed ahold of the stick and almost wrenched it out of my hand but I gave him a right hook as hard as I could to its neck and he let go. I was scratched and bloodied from claws but I got away. That was the one of the scariest moments of my life.

Trained dogs? Well lets just say that I'm REALLY glad I always had that suit on...

 

[LawDog]

If a dog approaches you and he is being aggressive never eye lock him. In the animal world, in general, hard eye contact is a sign of aggression. Squaring off towards the animal is an aggressive posture, you should turn slightly sideways to him. If you are going to reach for something that is on your person use the hand that is behind you. This will afford you an edge, you will give an impression of yeilding to him while you are making up your game plan.
Try not to move in a straight line towards or away from the animal, this will force him to continually reset his position. This will make it harder for him to jump in a straight line towards you.
Try to move in a circular fashion, animals will range your distance for an attack. Different animals utilize specific ranges for their attacks.
Animals can sense fear, stay as calm as you can, if you don't they will attack.

 

[Drunken_Boxer]

I would give him a head damage lol...no I would prolly run,but thats not a good idea I know,I dont think fast,it comes from my body and says whatever it wants...
I dont like dogs or pitbulls...pitbulls are mutants...blaah.

 

[CHEROKEE]

In the 1960's my neighbor, an old man who was quite intelligent and not ever a BS'er, told me of this method: Ram your hand/fist down the dogs throat until it is dead. Of course, this would only be used in a life/death situation. Fortunately I have never had a life/death situation with a dog, so this method is untested as far as I know. However, it is known that it is best to push toward a dog during a bite, rather than pull away (which is counterintuitive). Having wrestled with dogs as a kid, I imagine this method would work. Once you enter the throat, their instinct would be to release any bite and try to get away, at which point you drive your hand farther down the throat and then they are surely going to die if you can hold the dog down off its feet and keep it from getting away.

 

[kaizasosei]

aside from simply making noise or trying to create distance or even strike the dog, i know of one way to controll a dog.. a single dog can be completely controlled by grabbing the skin of the dogs cheeks and side of neck with both hands. this chokes the dog. one does have to be stronger than the dog because if a dog is stronger, it could simply wrestle itself out and bite. but if the grip is strong and the dog is hoisted upwards and choked, it can be controlled even if it is a relatively dangerous and strong dog. the best grip is to be standing behind the dog coming from the rear. but in the case of an emergency, one could even gain a bit of leverage by using the neck as a handle. but being in front of the dog, the dog can most likey still bite to the side.
there is also a nice dog throw done by simply reaching under the dog and grabbing the leg on the other side to push over with leverage.
but all this in the heat of action may be too difficult.
dogs are masters of intimidation and it may be very tricky getting in position to carry out any of these moves.
also, it may be best to let an extremly aggressive dog bite into another object like an umbrella or even a well protected forarm. in which case if there is any time one could drape a jacket over one arm as a defensive measure.

well personally i would..........Pull guard and go for a kimura!!!lol...not really although I saw a friend of mine choke out a dog before.... i wouldnt advise it though.

risky maybe, but a rear naked choke on a dog can work(depending on the dog of course)...

 

[King David]

I've been around some big dogs, Rotts, Mastiffs and Wolfs. Dogs are quick, but not very intelligent compared to a human.

Fighting a dog is similar to fighting a bull. Lead it where you want it to go and then sabatoge it.

If you have to give up an arm, throw out a swift elbow instead. If it lunges, kick it in the throat (watch your timing). A tight front head lock can be effective as well as a guillitine choke. You have to be careful or their neck will slip out or they will find a way to bite you. Grab their elbow and rip outward (9 o'clock) against the joint, while keeping on your toes and maintining pressure on the animal. This will tear the arm out of the socket and render it useless. Keep your weight on the animal by replacing your shoulder (which is on top of the dogs shoulder blade) with your with your hand, then your knee. This will allow you to extend upright, maintain balance and grip on the now dislocated shoulder.

By keeping your hand in place, you can deliver a swift head butt to the top of the head. This could crush their skull as a human skull is much harder than a dogs, even a big one.

Always go for the eyes if you have the occasion. If you find yourself underneath a dog, use the jiu jitsu butterfly (open) guard, and hit an elevator. Grab the throat while you roll on top and post the dog's neck flat to the ground as you mount. Take your other hand and push the dogs mouth upward exposing its throat completely. Remove your first hand while holding him with your other and deliver a sharp strike to crush the wind pipe.

Scissor locks can crush their rib cages.

If you get behind a dog, use a double leg ride (hooks) and be sure to keep your arms tucked under the armpits of the dog. Keep your body in tight because a dog has a lot of rotation in its neck and it can turn around a bite you. Stay close and tucked in, under the arms. Use your legs as leverage to break the dog down from its stance. Flatten out the animal. Then carefully slide a pointed hand deep under the neck of the dog. Use your whole upper body and shoulder to lift the head of the dog while keeping a tight rear naked choke. Once the head is extended, you can use your other hand to grab under the mouth. Arch your back and lift up and backward on the dogs mouth. This will cause the dogs back to arch against the direction of its spine. Once the dog is extended upright to 90 degree angle, wrap you entire arm deep around its neck like an anaconda, reaching around and putting your right hand in your back right pocket. This will lock the dog in and immobilize it completely.

With a simple arch backward, the spine will burst rendering the dog paralyzed.

King David

 

[MA-Caver]

I've been around some big dogs, Rotts, Mastiffs and Wolfs. Dogs are quick, but not very intelligent compared to a human.
Fighting a dog is similar to fighting a bull. Lead it where you want it to go and then sabotage it.
If you have to give up an arm, throw out a swift elbow instead. If it lunges, kick it in the throat (watch your timing). A tight front head lock can be effective as well as a guillotine choke. You have to be careful or their neck will slip out or they will find a way to bite you. Grab their elbow and rip outward (9 o'clock) against the joint, while keeping on your toes and maintaining pressure on the animal. This will tear the arm out of the socket and render it useless. Keep your weight on the animal by replacing your shoulder (which is on top of the dogs shoulder blade) with your with your hand, then your knee. This will allow you to extend upright, maintain balance and grip on the now dislocated shoulder.

By keeping your hand in place, you can deliver a swift head butt to the top of the head. This could crush their skull as a human skull is much harder than a dogs, even a big one.

Always go for the eyes if you have the occasion. If you find yourself underneath a dog, use the jiu jitsu butterfly (open) guard, and hit an elevator. Grab the throat while you roll on top and post the dog's neck flat to the ground as you mount. Take your other hand and push the dogs mouth upward exposing its throat completely. Remove your first hand while holding him with your other and deliver a sharp strike to crush the wind pipe.

Scissor locks can crush their rib cages.

If you get behind a dog, use a double leg ride (hooks) and be sure to keep your arms tucked under the armpits of the dog. Keep your body in tight because a dog has a lot of rotation in its neck and it can turn around a bite you. Stay close and tucked in, under the arms. Use your legs as leverage to break the dog down from its stance. Flatten out the animal. Then carefully slide a pointed hand deep under the neck of the dog. Use your whole upper body and shoulder to lift the head of the dog while keeping a tight rear naked choke. Once the head is extended, you can use your other hand to grab under the mouth. Arch your back and lift up and backward on the dogs mouth. This will cause the dogs back to arch against the direction of its spine. Once the dog is extended upright to 90 degree angle, wrap you entire arm deep around its neck like an anaconda, reaching around and putting your right hand in your back right pocket. This will lock the dog in and immobilize it completely.

With a simple arch backward, the spine will burst rendering the dog paralyzed.

King David

Those are nice and probably very effective but a lot of it is pure overkill in my opinion/experience. You hurt a dog enough to where it's screaming... let go... and chances are ... it'll get the hell out of dodge. Trap the dog while it's hurt and it may try to go for the kill, which means you will have to fight harder and probably get bitten more.
I'll also argue the fact that dogs are a lot smarter than we humans give them credit for... particularly fighting type and guard type dogs. You also don't know if the dog itself has had experience (or training) in fighting humans.

If I get on top and behind a dog then I'm going to go for one of two things, it's nose (millions of nerve endings there) with a good solid hammer blow, or it's lower jaw and like Kong did to the Tyrannosaur grab that lower jaw from behind the canines and pull sharply downward. The nose will totally daze it and it'll just want to get on outta there and as far away from you as possible... (been there done that) the jaw is a last resort and will kill the animal or it will have to be put down, either way it won't be biting anymore.

 

[Flea]

Last year I nearly pepper-sprayed a stray that came after my dog, but it backed off at the last minute. In retrospect I realized my dog would have caught a lot of it too.

I asked my vet about it later and she told me that pepper spray is a toss-up with dogs. They may take off, but there's a 50% chance that it could enrage the dog, making the situation far worse.

My advice? Carry bacon.

 

[BrandonLucas]

Bacon is seriously the answer for everything....lol

I have been in this situation before. The hardest part is fighting a dog that has the advantage of surprise on you...in other words, if you aren't expecting them to attack, and you have to act on reflex or reaction.

In either case, what MACaver is saying is correct...if you hurt a dog enough to make it yelp, it will generally back off considerably...the thing is, you have to watch them after they back off. Dogs, of course, are territorial, so if they feel like you're still in their territory, they will keep attacking you until:

1. You leave their territory
2. You're dead
3. They're dead

The trick is to keep an eye on them after you let them back off. Dogs will try to bait you into thinking that they have backed down, but then they will basically Trojan Horse you. I've seen it happen.

I don't like to go for kill type moves on an animal, because honestly, they're more than likely just trying to protect themselves or their territory...and I don't blame them. I'm territorial too.

But generally speaking, a dog will end up with respect for you if you make it believe that you are the alpha male. It won't challenge you after it realizes that.

 

[kaizasosei]

Awesome dog defense/immobilization move discovered thanks to my Girlfriend...only works if the dog has a collar.

what you do is if there is any way, like if the dog is going for someone or another dog or if you can pull it off being attacked...is to get a stick of some sort and stick it through the collar. Then you twist the stick to choke the dog out...as i have stated before, if you are quick, strong and receptive enough, you can grab a dogs cheeks/neck region on both sides with both hands and pull up(you choke the dog with his own loose skin)...that is when you are beside the dog or from behind. Not advisable to tackle head on on a powerful dog.
Classic defense is to use your knees as they are not that easy of a target and can keep the dogs center at bay.


Even better still and with enough conviction will work to some degree on most all dogs. That is to bend over really fast and pretend to pick up something and then pretend to throw the imaginary object at the dog. Dogs and humans have been around together and it seems to me to be instinctual for the dog to fear getting **** thrown at him....

one time i had to resort to throwing rocks at a wild cat that would not leave the premises and tore up a dogs face pretty bad...even willingly jumped in the pool to avoid the attacks by the owners....it then dove up, looked about and with the elegance of an olympic swimmer swam to land climbed,no dragged its soaked body out of the pool and then simply started cleaning itself.
i still feel bad for tossing rocks on that cat, but there was so much chaos and shouting going on, coupled with the bloodied face of the dog(boxer)....
i missed about four rocks but the fifth one seemed to hit the poor cat in the head- and then it took off fast. I tell you animals fear stuff getting thrown at them and some other animals such as some bird species are instinctively scared of people with sticks....hell a crow will freak out even if you point a ninjaturtle action-figure in his general direction...

good advice i agree not to corner an animal without care. As they say, the lion is most dangerous when he is backed into a corner.


j

j

 

[MA-Caver]

Bacon is seriously the answer for everything....lol

I have been in this situation before. The hardest part is fighting a dog that has the advantage of surprise on you...in other words, if you aren't expecting them to attack, and you have to act on reflex or reaction.

In either case, what MACaver is saying is correct...if you hurt a dog enough to make it yelp, it will generally back off considerably...the thing is, you have to watch them after they back off. Dogs, of course, are territorial, so if they feel like you're still in their territory, they will keep attacking you until:

1. You leave their territory
2. You're dead
3. They're dead

The trick is to keep an eye on them after you let them back off. Dogs will try to bait you into thinking that they have backed down, but then they will basically Trojan Horse you. I've seen it happen.

I don't like to go for kill type moves on an animal, because honestly, they're more than likely just trying to protect themselves or their territory...and I don't blame them. I'm territorial too.

But generally speaking, a dog will end up with respect for you if you make it believe that you are the alpha male. It won't challenge you after it realizes that.

Excellent reply. And true that I've too have seen dogs feint running off and when you turn your back they're charging back at you. Dogs understand that superior Alpha dogs are not to be trifled with. They're hard-wired with it.
That is why for humans you get the dog to back off, YOU back off as well... but DO NOT turn your back on it... if the dog makes a forward move then you move forward to it more aggressively growling yelling fierce... whatever.
The old, bend over and pretend to pick up a rock DOES help... particularly if dogs have been "stoned" before. But better to actually pick up a rock, bottle or something heavy enough to hurt when you hit the animal with it.
Opening up your coat (if wearing one) and spreading it wide to "catch the wind" makes you look larger and more intimidating. This is all after the initial hurt/yelp and the scramble to get away from you and you're still in it's perceived territory.
Only once have I done this, was at night and trapped in a fenced yard (don't ask ) and thankfully I had to go... a dog and I were doing the stare-down thing... both of us were equally intimidated I guess you can say because he wasn't charging (was like a lab-shepard mix or something) just growling and doing the foot shuffling. I whipped myself out and went... walking backwards and drawing a line around then moved to the fence ... I knew I would have to turn my back on the dog to climb... I did (after zipping up) and got to the top and found the dog was halted at my line, sniffing... that was enough to allow me to get on over the other side... last I saw the dog was re-marking his territory. :lol:

Awesome dog defense/immobilization move discovered thanks to my Girlfriend...only works if the dog has a collar.

what you do is if there is any way, like if the dog is going for someone or another dog or if you can pull it off being attacked...is to get a stick of some sort and stick it through the collar. Then you twist the stick to choke the dog out...as i have stated before, if you are quick, strong and receptive enough, you can grab a dogs cheeks/neck region on both sides with both hands and pull up(you choke the dog with his own loose skin)...that is when you are beside the dog or from behind. Not advisable to tackle head on on a powerful dog.
Classic defense is to use your knees as they are not that easy of a target and can keep the dogs center at bay.
Even better still and with enough conviction will work to some degree on most all dogs. That is to bend over really fast and pretend to pick up something and then pretend to throw the imaginary object at the dog. Dogs and humans have been around together and it seems to me to be instinctual for the dog to fear getting **** thrown at him....
one time i had to resort to throwing rocks at a wild cat that would not leave the premises and tore up a dogs face pretty bad...even willingly jumped in the pool to avoid the attacks by the owners....it then dove up, looked about and with the elegance of an olympic swimmer swam to land climbed,no dragged its soaked body out of the pool and then simply started cleaning itself.
i still feel bad for tossing rocks on that cat, but there was so much chaos and shouting going on, coupled with the bloodied face of the dog(boxer)....
i missed about four rocks but the fifth one seemed to hit the poor cat in the head- and then it took off fast. I tell you animals fear stuff getting thrown at them and some other animals such as some bird species are instinctively scared of people with sticks....hell a crow will freak out even if you point a ninjaturtle action-figure in his general direction...
good advice i agree not to corner an animal without care. As they say, the lion is most dangerous when he is backed into a corner.
j

Exactly never corner an animal when you can help it unless you got the means to immobilize it...

 

[BLACK LION]

This is a great topic...

I have had several instances with dogs where I have been attacked or someone else has or another dog has or my own dog has....

I have learned one major principle when dealing with even the most "bloodthirsty" beasts.... YOU ARE THE BIGGER ANIMAL.... let them know that.... growl, yell and advance on them with your arms flared to the side while doing so. God gave us dominion over all beasts for a reason, remember that... We are at the top of the food chain...

If you or someone or something else is already being attacked.... go for the dogs throat... make sure you secure the trachea and esophagus and then secure the base of the skull...shove your fingers in their eye sockets... etc... some say that once a pitbull locks on he wont let go....********...ram a finger up his *** and he will... if a dog lunges to bit you five them the forearm and shove it to the back of thier mouth...when they clamp on, place the other forearm behind the skull and rotate the bitten arm over it and thier neck will break.... You have to do something and do it quick... thier jaws were designed to crush and digest bone.... USE A BLADE... if its night time..USE A BRIGHT FLASHLIGHT IN THIER EYES... if surefires worked on a pride of lions they will work on one dog(it does work)

I was on the beach last summer and I noticed a mastiff type dog or maybe a blue dane stalking this child that was swimming in the water... the dog was huge but afraid to go out in the water... so it turned its attention on lil scruffy the family dog... it picked that dog up and just devoured it in his mouth and proceeded to whip it from side to side while everyone including the owners watched in complete horror and disbelief... no one would save that dog out of fear... I mad my way over to the dog and came up under its fov and clutched its trachea in my hand while securing the base of the skull and spine so he couldnt turn or move his head to bite at all.... he wanted to real bad though but I just squeezed the trachea so it couldnt swallow.... I talked it down until it laid down and allowed me to instruct the dogsitter on what to do... I told them I was fully prepared to kill this animal right in front of her if he attacks someone or something else... she gave me the dogs story and put it on the leash and let it drag her off the beach... the other dog lived and I didnt even get a thank you.... comfort of denial is bliss aye

 

[BrandonLucas]

This is a great topic...

I have had several instances with dogs where I have been attacked or someone else has or another dog has or my own dog has....

I have learned one major principle when dealing with even the most "bloodthirsty" beasts.... YOU ARE THE BIGGER ANIMAL.... let them know that.... growl, yell and advance on them with your arms flared to the side while doing so. God gave us dominion over all beasts for a reason, remember that... We are at the top of the food chain...

If you or someone or something else is already being attacked.... go for the dogs throat... make sure you secure the trachea and esophagus and then secure the base of the skull...shove your fingers in their eye sockets... etc... some say that once a pitbull locks on he wont let go....********...ram a finger up his *** and he will... if a dog lunges to bit you five them the forearm and shove it to the back of thier mouth...when they clamp on, place the other forearm behind the skull and rotate the bitten arm over it and thier neck will break.... You have to do something and do it quick... thier jaws were designed to crush and digest bone.... USE A BLADE... if its night time..USE A BRIGHT FLASHLIGHT IN THIER EYES... if surefires worked on a pride of lions they will work on one dog(it does work)

I was on the beach last summer and I noticed a mastiff type dog or maybe a blue dane stalking this child that was swimming in the water... the dog was huge but afraid to go out in the water... so it turned its attention on lil scruffy the family dog... it picked that dog up and just devoured it in his mouth and proceeded to whip it from side to side while everyone including the owners watched in complete horror and disbelief... no one would save that dog out of fear... I mad my way over to the dog and came up under its fov and clutched its trachea in my hand while securing the base of the skull and spine so he couldnt turn or move his head to bite at all.... he wanted to real bad though but I just squeezed the trachea so it couldnt swallow.... I talked it down until it laid down and allowed me to instruct the dogsitter on what to do... I told them I was fully prepared to kill this animal right in front of her if he attacks someone or something else... she gave me the dogs story and put it on the leash and let it drag her off the beach... the other dog lived and I didnt even get a thank you.... comfort of denial is bliss aye

It's a hard thing to accept, but if you happen to be in this type of situation again, don't expect to be thanked. It's a strange thing, but animals (especially dogs) have this special place in most peoples' hearts that even though they know the dog is trying to kill them, they don't want to see the dog in pain or abused in anyway.

If a child is in danger, then yes, the dog needs to be dealt with quickly and efficiently. The thing is, it is still going to be a huge shock for the parents of the child in danger to see someone beating the dog that is trying to go after the child.

Regarding the story you told there, I would really love to get ahold of the dog's owner, who was apparently walking a dog that she could not control. That is the whole point of walking a dog...to control where the animal goes and when. If someone can't grasp that concept, there's not much point in even having a leash at all.

 

[BLACK LION]

It's a hard thing to accept, but if you happen to be in this type of situation again, don't expect to be thanked. It's a strange thing, but animals (especially dogs) have this special place in most peoples' hearts that even though they know the dog is trying to kill them, they don't want to see the dog in pain or abused in anyway.

If a child is in danger, then yes, the dog needs to be dealt with quickly and efficiently. The thing is, it is still going to be a huge shock for the parents of the child in danger to see someone beating the dog that is trying to go after the child.

Regarding the story you told there, I would really love to get ahold of the dog's owner, who was apparently walking a dog that she could not control. That is the whole point of walking a dog...to control where the animal goes and when. If someone can't grasp that concept, there's not much point in even having a leash at all.

I agree completely...

I asked why the hell was she out there with that dog on a leash made for a chihuahua if she couldnt control it... apparently she felt sorry for it being "couped up" and had no idea...apparently she was "dog sitting" for the owners who "rescued" the dog a week earlier then decided to go on vacation... she also told me that the dog was previously abused real bad with sticks and such... Mind you all this was going on while I had the dog by the throat and skull

It was almost thier son though... They had gone into shock after accepting that feefee was a gonner and they never came out... the comfort of denial is bliss

 

[nelsonkari]

Very good kick butt dog suggestions here on this forum. I have been attacked by dogs a number of times in my life as a meter reader for a power company. I carried a club in my car along with a can of mace. On one occasion I had to use both against an attacking German Shepard. I also carried a Buck knife and once had to use it to deter another shepard in a fenced in back yard. As long as the owner was not present we had a Mexican standoff that allowed me to get my job done.

I have kicked dogs, one was a charging German Shepard who's master, a woman, was walking to his dog house as I went through the yard to the meter. A pure reflex roundhouse caught the dog in the jaw and sent him flying 180 degrees to whence he came. I apologized to the woman for kicking her dog.

Another shepard bit me on my right thigh and put his hooks into me in a "loving" embrace. This doggy went airborne as I launched him off my leg and proceeded to scream profanities as I chased him across the yard.
A month later I was reading the meter again and his master happened to be present and the dog was chained up. When I told him what happened to me he went over and started beating his dog. It's no wonder he was viscious!

Dog's do spook easily. Once I got jumped by a mutt who was chained to a meter pole that was sleeping under a trailer. When he woke up and charged me I pointed my pencil as if it was a laser weapon. The dog was spooked enough in order to let me back out of range.

One tech for a kill is to give up an arm to sweep the dog into the air to preform a backbreaker. I wouldn't recommend trying it for kicks but it might just save your life someday. Eye gouuges are nice but not fatal as are throat shots. Stabbing works too as long as you get away after the big commotion and aren't sued by the owner.

I had a saying written on the club I carried in my meter reading car.
"The only good dog is a vaporized dog." Maybe that's why the called me a wild man back in the day.

I hope my stories helped and gave you all a few laughs.

Nelson

 

[Big Don]

My dad used to reach out and grab the dog by it's bottom jaw and force the middle finger and thumb of that hand to hold the dog's tongue down. When this is done, they cannot close their mouth. I don't have the balls to try that and the few times I have been charged, I either dove into a vehicle or resorted to a roundhouse kick. I was attacked by a dog about three months after starting Kenpo. All my Sifu wanted to know was had I kiaied. I told him that depended on if he considered MOTHER F_ and OH SH_ Kiais...

 

[BLACK LION]

Please allow me to add that you both provided good tactics....

Give them the forearm in order to perform a rollover neck/backbreaker with the opposite arm is one I advocate especially for pitbulls or dogs who will not let go.

Also the clench of the jaw while pressing the thumb down on the tongue to prevent swallowing is one I have personally used....

good posts guys