Anyone knife throw?

[CuongNhuka]

If I'm gonna throw my knife at the bad guy it's gonna be as a distraction with one knife so I can close the distance and skewer him with the one still in my hand.

See, that's what I thought of too. It could be used as a distraction, while you close. Or, (as defense of others) could be used to get an attacker to switch target.

 

[Flying Crane]

I live in San Francisco and work not too far from Chinatown so I like to wander thru there on my lunch break. I happened to notice recently that some shops are selling throwing knives for pretty cheap. They are stainless steel, made in China, I don't have any idea if these would be considered high quality or not, but if anyone is interested in getting something for cheap to play with, I could pick something up and send it to you. There is one shop in particular that is closing down because the owner is getting ready to retire, so his stuff is extra cheap. Just a thought. Send me a PM if you are interested.

 

[thardey]

I grew up with throwing knives, it goes back in my family for generations - my grandfather bought me my first "set."

It was never intended to be a self-defense tool, however, just a game - like darts.

Last year, I switched from throwing knives, to spikes. Also, I started learning the "direct-hit" method, in which the knife only rotates 1/4 of a turn before striking, no matter how far away you are.

Two advantages: A.) my "spikes" are 8" nails with the head cut off, and wrapped in chord, so they only cost about $0.25 apiece. It's nothing to lose them in the woods.

B.) You don't have to count how may half-turns you'll have to use. In fact, where it get harder to consistently get the correct spin on a turning throw as you move back, in a direct-hit throw, it gets easier! (For that reason, sometimes I'll stick to a 1/2 turn throw for less than 10 feet, and switch to a direct-hit throw up until about 45.) It helps to use heavier spikes for the longer throws.

 

[Flying Crane]

I grew up with throwing knives, it goes back in my family for generations - my grandfather bought me my first "set."

It was never intended to be a self-defense tool, however, just a game - like darts.

Last year, I switched from throwing knives, to spikes. Also, I started learning the "direct-hit" method, in which the knife only rotates 1/4 of a turn before striking, no matter how far away you are.

Two advantages: A.) my "spikes" are 8" nails with the head cut off, and wrapped in chord, so they only cost about $0.25 apiece. It's nothing to lose them in the woods.

B.) You don't have to count how may half-turns you'll have to use. In fact, where it get harder to consistently get the correct spin on a turning throw as you move back, in a direct-hit throw, it gets easier! (For that reason, sometimes I'll stick to a 1/2 turn throw for less than 10 feet, and switch to a direct-hit throw up until about 45.) It helps to use heavier spikes for the longer throws.

Do tell, about this method...

 

[kenpofighter]

I don't understand about the rotating 1/2 of a turn or 1/4 of a turn. Like I said I know nothing about throwing. Can someone explain this to me?

 

[thardey]

Do tell, about this method...

I don't understand about the rotating 1/2 of a turn or 1/4 of a turn. Like I said I know nothing about throwing. Can someone explain this to me?

Oh, boy, the limits of textual medium! Let me try.


Okay, 1/2 turns, full turns etc, to start. When you throw from short range, say, you begin to practice by throwing a knife into the ground in front of your feet, you'll find that you have to grip the knife by the blade. (How exactly you hold it depends on your style, and whether it's a dagger.) When you throw it, the knife will leave your hand with the handle pointing toward the target, rotate 1/2 of a turn, and will strike the target with the tip.

If you move back (typically about 3 feet) you'll have to hold the handle to hit the target. The knife will make one full turn (point-handle-point) and strike the target. Move back another 3 feet, and you switch to the blade again for a 1 1/2 turn throw. Continue until you can't achieve consistency with your rotations, and the knife hits at random points through the rotation. (Usually what happens in the movies, except they always magically land in the correct position.) This is why knife-throwing is more of a sport than an actual self-defense. You have to learn to throw from certain distances. In between those distances is very hard to learn consistently. (3' and 6' is easy - 5' is extremely difficult.)

Now, for the 1/4 turn, or "direct hit" method. We get technical.

For any throw, whether it be a baseball, knife, rock, whatever, we don't release the object when it is in front of us - or we would throw it directly into our feet. We release when we are at the very top of the rotation of the throw. (Think of throwing a football.) That way the force goes forward, toward your target.

So, technically, whenever we release a knife for throwing, it actually spins an extra 1/4 of a turn while in the air. A 1/2 turn throw actually leaves your hand with the handle pointing straight up in the air, and rotates 3/4 of a turn before it strikes.

With this in mind, we've bought ourselves a extra 1/4 of a turn to fit the throw. We need this, because the momentum of the throw itself gives a turning motion to the knife. So, now we eliminate the extra spins!

To do this: balance the spike (it's easier if the spike is balanced at the center, but not necessary) at the end of two fingers, with the handle resting in your palm. It's recommended that you use the two middle fingers, but I prefer the first two fingers, like throwing a baseball. Finding the point of balance is critical - eventually you'll find it instinctively.

To throw, you're trying to push the center of balance (COB) of the spike towards the target. The natural rotation imparted by the throw will cause the spike to continue to rotate slowly. This is good for about 10 feet. The spike will leave your hand with the point straight up and down, and will slowly drop to face the target. There you go - direct hit!

Each person will have a different "beginning point" for the "natural" part of the throw - that is, a throw from the COB. Move forward and back until you find yours. (Throw from here about 1,000 times.)

Now, to adjust for distance. If you want to move back, slide your fingers until the spike (aka bo-shiruken) is slightly point-heavy. This will counteract the natural rotation of the throw, and will cause the spike to rotate more slowly. If you go too far, the spike won't rotate at all, but will "float" towards the target with the point straight up and down.

Since 1/4 turn spread out over 20 feet is pretty slow, its not much different than 30 feet, or 40 feet. So, the farther you get away, the less accurate of a judge of distance you have to be! Also, the arc of the throw begins to correlate to the amount of spin, so that the point stays at the lead.

If you want to move closer than 10 feet, balance the spike so that it is handle-heavy. This will push the blade a little more, and cause the spike to rotate faster. In this way you can be touching the target with one hand, and sticking it with the other. I find that my most difficult distance is about 4 feet. (Harder than 40, actually.) It's here that I sometime switch to a 1/2 turn (actually a 3/4 turn) throw.

After a while, you will learn the proper balance for certain distances.

Questions?

I would post a video, but it wouldn't help!

 

[kenpofighter]

If you move back (typically about 3 feet) you'll have to hold the handle to hit the target. The knife will make one full turn (point-handle-point) and strike the target. Move back another 3 feet, and you switch to the blade again for a 1 1/2 turn throw. Continue until you can't achieve consistency with your rotations, and the knife hits at random points through the rotation.

Thanks a lot for all the explaining! One quick question...So basically every three feet the knife should make one full turn plus the extra 1/4 after we create a large enough distance?

 

[Josh Oakley]

This is why I do an underhand spear-style throw. Only effective up to 30 feet but it doesn't turn.

 

[thardey]

Thanks a lot for all the explaining! One quick question...So basically every three feet the knife should make one full turn plus the extra 1/4 after we create a large enough distance?

One full turn every 6 feet, for me. It depends on how the knife was made, as well as your throwing style.

 

[thardey]

This is why I do an underhand spear-style throw. Only effective up to 30 feet but it doesn't turn.

Never tried it underhand - I could definitely see the advantages, though!

 

[BLACK LION]

I do throw knives, ever since i was a small kid .... although I do not train to throw my primary knife tool.... my secondary or designated throw knife is perfectly balanced for that purpose.... I also use smaller spikes that work great as a deterent and are more easily concealed...
I use a set of army ranger throwing knives which are budget minded, perfectly balanced , double edged and thicker than most knives... especially throwers.... they can take any abuse you have for them.....





combatknifethrowing.com

 

[BLACK LION]

the way i learned is.... there are two ways to grip the knife by the handle or by the blade ....which one you use is up to you but within 6 yards i wouldnt even throw from the blade because it has to at-least rotate halfway to get the blade forward and it could mean a miss .... so... i throw from the handle within 18 feet of the target.... your rotation will depend on how many fingers grip the handle... as you move away or as distance increases you decrease the amount of fingers on the handle...at around 6 yards or 18 feet you will have a pinch grip on the handle....

there are all sorts of throws up close sideways/upwards/ downwards but no matter how you do it the same principles apply.... the main one is not allowing a flick of the rist.... you should open the hand as if you are releasing the knife or dropping it... this is done at almost the exact same time the arm reaches its fully extended and locked position .... this applies no matter how you throw

 

[elder999]

the way i learned is.... there are two ways to grip the knife by the handle or by the blade ....which one you use is up to you but within 6 yards i wouldnt even throw from the blade because it has to at-least rotate halfway to get the blade forward and it could mean a miss .... so... i throw from the handle within 18 feet of the target.... your rotation will depend on how many fingers grip the handle... as you move away or as distance increases you decrease the amount of fingers on the handle...at around 6 yards or 18 feet you will have a pinch grip on the handle....

there are all sorts of throws up close sideways/upwards/ downwards but no matter how you do it the same principles apply.... the main one is not allowing a flick of the rist.... you should open the hand as if you are releasing the knife or dropping it... this is done at almost the exact same time the arm reaches its fully extended and locked position .... this applies no matter how you throw

I throw, and, while things might work this way for you, your physics is wrong.

I find it's best to throw the knife based on its balance. While throwers are good for learning to throw, and generally balanced so that one can throw gripping handle or blade, there are a few more...practical blades that make good throwers as well. Whether you grip the blade or the handle is dependent upon the balance of the blade-you want to throw with the heavy end forward for rotation.

Number of rotations is wholly an effect of point of release and distance, nothing more. Number of fingers gripping might correlate to this, depending upon the mechanics of your throwing motion, but how many times the blade will turn depend upon when you let it go and the distance from the target.In any case, I grip with all four fingers at any distance. Number of rotations is in direct proportion to distance and throw mechanics. Generally, a release with the weapon pointing straight up is most desirable for an overhand throw.

This also corresponds with hatchets and tomahawks, btw.

One can throw knives sidearm, and about the same rules apply. You can also use a "shot-putting" sort of motion, and throw the blade without rotation so that the point sticks, but this is generally less accurate....

I love to throw kukris, even if they aren't meant to be thrown......

 

[BLACK LION]

maybe i did nt explain myself correctly...I apologize

i found that it becomes more of a presonal style in the end... I used some of the popular methods and hound them not to work... it depepnds entirely on the blade.... i always used regular knives or equally balanced ones.... if the blade is heavier like most throwers it would be thrown from the blade but what about within 5 feet????