# Does anyone else on MT surf?



## Makalakumu

Who surfs?  Where?  Lets talk about it!


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## theletch1

Just the net, dude.


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## Xue Sheng

Oh HERE we go  another shamless "HEY!!! I live in Hawaii" thread 

Nope never surfed and never wanted to, I never had the desire to troll for sharks and be the bait at the same time :uhyeah:

I am however considering snowboarding, does that count


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## Makalakumu

Hawaii isn't the only place you can surf.  Heck, I used to body surf on Lake Superior when the conditions were right and the waves were breaking regularly.

Right now, I'm just learning to ride a longboard.  I can paddle out and catch waves okay.  Getting up on the board is easier because of my MA training.  

I mostly hang on breaks where the waves get no bigger then 3-6 feet.  Any more then that and I get slammed.  I'm just not that good yet.  

There are some good breaks on the south shore of Oahu that are pretty consistent.  Queen's, Canoes, White Plains, Barber's Point are mostly where I'm at.  

The other day I scraped up my leg on the coral after a wipe out.  That ended my surfing for a while.  It's not a good idea to mix chumming with surfing.


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## terryl965

When I lived in California every morning we would hit the beach for some surfing, Huntington Beach and Laguna Beach has some great waves.


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## Makalakumu

Did anyone else find that their MA training helped with surfing?

I found that it helps my strength, stamina, and balance out on the waves.  Also, with ukemi, I feel pretty comfortable falling.  Except on coral.  Thats like falling on a cheese grater.


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## terryl965

yea my balance was always better whaen I was surfing.


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## JadecloudAlchemist

I surf. My dad surfed and he taught me.

 I surfed up and down Florida. My dad use to take me to Sebastian inlet and on the way up tell me about all the shark attack that happen there and then throw me in the water!!

I still surf now and I don't think I could live anywhere with out waves to at least look at.


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## Drac

There's no surf in Cleveland..I prefer scuba diving...I WISH I could have tried surfing when I was a young man...


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## JadecloudAlchemist

For Xue a shark story.

When I was surfing once there was shark swiming in the wave I was going to take. I saw him and I thought it looked pretty cool. I took the wave and said what ever happens happens. He was maybe 5-6ft
I am sure shark touched my leg a couple of times and the little fish jump out of the water next to you they must be running from something.

I once met Jacques-Yves Cousteau(I did not know who he was till later)

He said "don't be afraid of them...then again don't tease them"


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## crushing

I have a college credit in windsurfing, but haven't taken my sailboard out in years.

It sure seems like it would help MA as it requires endurance and balance.


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## Makalakumu

One thing that we have to deal with out here in Hawaii is Localism...or surf gangs.  Certain groups of locals feel that they are entitled to the waves on a break close to home and they sometimes threaten or physically beat you off the beach if you try to go out there.  This really sucks because it pretty much limits anyone who wants to learn to a couple of public places where all of the tourists are also learning.  One would think that you could call the cops and complain about this, but all they seem to do is take a report and ignore you.  Perhaps they have better things to worry about then stupid surf punks beating up people over waves...but on the other hand I can see this getting out of hand pretty quick.  

Does anyone else see this where they surf or is this just a Hawaii thing?


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## Xue Sheng

maunakumu said:


> It's not a good idea to mix chumming with surfing.


 
:lol:

And I'm sorry to hear about the leg, hope you recover quickly


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## JadecloudAlchemist

Speaking of chumming
Sometimes fisherman would throw their lines in from the shore. So sometimes you get close to their lines. 

Sometime tourist are swiming when you are surfing and you can hit them easy.

I have not met any surfer gangs. I body surfed before too. And free surfing is fun too.


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## Makalakumu

Xue Sheng said:


> :lol:
> 
> And I'm sorry to hear about the leg, hope you recover quickly


 
No worries!  Nothing like scraping up some skin and pouring saltwater on the wound!


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## Xue Sheng

JadecloudAlchemist said:


> For Xue a shark story.
> 
> When I was surfing once there was shark swiming in the wave I was going to take. *I saw him and I thought it looked pretty cool. I took the wave and said what ever happens happens. He was maybe 5-6ft*
> *I am sure shark touched my leg a couple of times* and the little fish jump out of the water next to you they must be running from something.
> 
> I once met Jacques-Yves Cousteau(I did not know who he was till later)
> 
> He said "don't be afraid of them...then again don't tease them"


 
  Now you see that RIGHT there is one of the reasons I do not even SWIM in the ocean anymore. I have this little problem with standing on the beach being one of the Apex species on the planet and then taking a few short steps to get into the water and becoming bait :uhyeah:


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## Makalakumu

Xue Sheng said:


> Now you see that RIGHT there is one of the reasons I do not even SWIM in the ocean anymore. I have this little problem with standing on the beach being one of the Apex species on the planet and then taking a few short steps to get into the water and becoming bait :uhyeah:


 
Well, that certainly sounds prideful...


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## Xue Sheng

maunakumu said:


> Well, that certainly sounds prideful...


 
Well yeah 

It was either Apex Species of Master of the planet and I was not sure which to go with but either way it is that whole becoming "bait" thing I have a problem with.

And if South Florida it would be worse, IMO, Sharks and Salt water Crocs now theres some fun for surfers, jet skiers, swimers, etc.

I won't go salt water Kayaking either because of stuff like this







And no surfing because of stuff like this






I did want to and still think about hopping in a white water kayak and shooting the rapids, rocks and such but I am NOT going in the ocean to kayak, swim or surf.


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## Makalakumu

Well, I learned from a super secret defense against shark technique from an old ninja master turned surfer...


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## Xue Sheng

maunakumu said:


> Well, I learned from a super secret defense against shark technique from an old ninja master turned surfer...


 

:asian: Then you are safe

You'll have to teach it to me sometime... I still won't go surfing.. but at least if I come across one on the beach I can handle him


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## Makalakumu

This man knows secret technique...

http://www.miamiherald.com/news/5min/story/707023.html



> ISLAMORADA -- Greg LeNoir watched in horror as the shark's mouth opened wide, chomping a large set of teeth on his beloved 14-pound dog, Jake.
> 
> ''Noooooo,'' LeNoir shrieked, fearing the worst.
> 
> But the case of the rat terrier vs. the shark has a happy ending.
> 
> ''Jake's doing great,'' LeNoir's brother, Phillip, said Monday. ``And I still can't believe my brother jumped in the water and punched a shark.''


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## elder999

Xue Sheng said:


> Well yeah
> 
> It was either Apex Species of Master of the planet and I was not sure which to go with but either way it is that whole becoming "bait" thing I have a problem with.
> 
> And if South Florida it would be worse, IMO, Sharks and Salt water Crocs now theres some fun for surfers, jet skiers, swimers, etc.
> 
> I won't go salt water Kayaking either because of stuff like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did want to and still think about hopping in a white water kayak and shooting the rapids, rocks and such but I am NOT going in the ocean to kayak, swim or surf.


 

Well, first off-I surf whenever I get the chance. Baja in August, these days......

Secondly, the second picture, real or not, clearly depicts a dolphin, not a shark-you can tell by the angle of the dorsal fin. 

One of those things you *have* to know, if you're descending to the bottom of the food chain....:lfao:

EDIT: guess it's a real photo, but, as I said, of a dolphin:http://www.snopes.com/photos/animals/surfer.asp

Here's a picture of shark dorsal fin and surfer:


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## tshadowchaser

Have not surfed in many, many years.
 I learned in Hawaii way back in 1964 and found it to be fun and exhilarating.   Took it up again in the mid eighties in to the early 90s  but have done none since.  Having been land locked  for the past 20 years and having gotten some what older has stopped my thoughts of surfing.


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## Xue Sheng

elder999 said:


> Well, first off-I surf whenever I get the chance. Baja in August, these days......
> 
> Secondly, the second picture, real or not, clearly depicts a dolphin, not a shark-you can tell by the angle of the dorsal fin.
> 
> One of those things you *have* to know, if you're descending to the bottom of the food chain....:lfao:
> 
> EDIT: guess it's a real photo, but, as I said, of a dolphin:http://www.snopes.com/photos/animals/surfer.asp
> 
> Here's a picture of shark dorsal fin and surfer:


 
Yes I know, I just found that out myself that it was a dolphin and I was actually coming to post that, thanks, but the first photo is real. 

And so is this one 





Not

Regardless, I am NOT surfing.


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## tshadowchaser

the picture in the last post about sums up how I felt on my first big wave.  LOL


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## Brian R. VanCise

Xue Sheng said:


> Oh HERE we go  another shamless "HEY!!! I live in Hawaii" thread
> 
> Nope never surfed and never wanted to, I never had the desire to troll for sharks and be the bait at the same time :uhyeah:
> 
> I am however considering snowboarding, does that count



Funny, very funny actually!  The part about another shameless I live in Hawaii thread! :rofl:

I do not surf but I do snowboard.  Snowboarding really rocks as it is hard core surfing.


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## JadecloudAlchemist

I feel weird being strapped in Brian. I tried that on some weird skate board. My wife likes snow boarding but it cost alot of money. Ever try skimboarding I love watching someone bust their butt when they fall haha.

Xue I love that pic with the shark in the wave. I never had a shark that big in any wave I took well none I saw lol.


I have not seen any crocs in the water they are somewhat rare here.

Aligators thats another thread and story.


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## quoll

Yea but getting older and surfing comes after working and doing other stuff so don't get out much, even though the beach is all of 60metres away. Water is cold here only about 20 or 22 c.

Learning to kitesurf this year, something different, been windsurfing for 26 years, surfing for 20 years. 

More people are getting eaten by crocodiles in Aus now. Noticed I get a bit more paranoid in deep dark water now, didn't bother me as much when i was younger.

Paddling out is a really good stomach and shoulder workout. 

The local thing is a bit crappy and it does happen everywhere, might not be as bad as you are describing, not much physical violence here just a bit of intimidation.

Enjoy the water.
Cheers
Graeme


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## Makalakumu

Xue Sheng said:


> :asian: Then you are safe
> 
> You'll have to teach it to me sometime... I still won't go surfing.. but at least if I come across one on the beach I can handle him


 
Old ninja surfer say...

"Swim fasta, yah!  Da buggah broke da mouf on da fat ones, yah!"


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## Jade Tigress

Like Jeff, the only thing I surf is the web. I would love to _really_ surf though. I love the water and grew up water skiing on a small lake my grandparents lived on. But to be in the ocean riding the waves on a surfboard.....ahhhhhhh....that would be heaven.


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## crushing

maunakumu said:


> Well, I learned from a super secret defense against shark technique from an old ninja master turned surfer...


 
I look forward to you sharing your secrets in your new book Surf Sword published by Paladin Press.


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## Xue Sheng

JadecloudAlchemist said:


> I feel weird being strapped in Brian. I tried that on some weird skate board. My wife likes snow boarding but it cost alot of money. Ever try skimboarding I love watching someone bust their butt when they fall haha.
> 
> Xue I love that pic with the shark in the wave. I never had a shark that big in any wave I took well none I saw lol.
> 
> 
> I have not seen any crocs in the water they are somewhat rare here.
> 
> Aligators thats another thread and story.


 
I'm with Brian here; although I do not snowboard I am seriously considering taking it up.... Besides Land Sharks are much easier to avoid. 

As for the Shark in the wave it is a megalodon... honest..

See I have photographic proof they still exist


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## HKphooey

Matunuck Breakers and Newport, RI  Not Cali, but it will do.


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## Makalakumu

I'll be heading out to White Plains this afternoon.  The surf is going to be small, but hopefully enough to get up on a long board.  A friend of mine read the surf report last week and went out anyway.  She got there just a tremendous set came in and road waves for a couple of hours.  Just goes to show you that surf reports are like weather reports.  They can be wrong...


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## tshadowchaser

Fot those in Hawaii anuy of you ever get to surf off Queens Point.  I am pretty sure thats what my friend and  surf instructor called it the day he took me there and dared me to face the waves


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## LoneRider

I usually surf in Neptune Beach or Hannah Park in Jacksonville, FL. If not there, I surf in New Smyrna Beach on the weekends...


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## HKphooey

LoneRider said:


> I usually surf in Neptune Beach or Hannah Park in Jacksonville, FL. If not there, I surf in New Smyrna Beach on the weekends...


 
Even make it down to Juptier/Hobe Sound area?  Good surf dow that way too.

What is everyone riding?

I have a Robert August longboard.


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## LoneRider

I have a 7'8" Premier Funshape made by and a 6'8" Charlie Baldwin. The latter I bought used for 50 dollars. Add in the nine bucks for a nose guard and four dollars for a shortboard leash and I think I came out on the good side in that regard. I ain't surfed in ages though. I owe it to myself...


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## Makalakumu

tshadowchaser said:


> Fot those in Hawaii anuy of you ever get to surf off Queens Point.  I am pretty sure thats what my friend and  surf instructor called it the day he took me there and dared me to face the waves



I surf there occasionally.  It's one of the less busy spots in Waikiki.


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## tshadowchaser

If I remember correctly I was told you can only see the waves at Queens Point from Waikiki Beach if the waves are over 15 feet.
Wish I had been told that before I went there that first time  LOL


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## Makalakumu

tshadowchaser said:


> If I remember correctly I was told you can only see the waves at Queens Point from Waikiki Beach if the waves are over 15 feet.
> Wish I had been told that before I went there that first time  LOL



I can't even imagine surfing waves that big.  I would get crushed!


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## Makalakumu

HKphooey said:


> What is everyone riding?



I've got two longboards at 9'3" and 9'6".  I also have a fun board at 8'.  I'm just learning how to surf the shorter board.  Maybe down the road I'll get a board that is much shorter.  I have to learn how to turn first.


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## tko4u

I actually wanted to get lessons on vacation in florida, but there wasnt anyone. It has always been fascinating to me though


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## LoneRider

Where in Florida? I recommend New Smyrna Beach (about twenty minutes south of Daytona Beach) for best surfing in Florida. St. Augustine and Jacksonville (Hanna Park especially) are the next best thing. 

 As to martial artists and surfing correlation, look no further than Brazil. A lot of Brazilian Jiu Jitsu types native to the country tend to be surfers, at least according to Sam Sheridan during his exploration of Brazilian Jiu Jitsu.


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## Makalakumu

My new favorite spot is Flat Island off of Kailua beach.  Its about a quarter mile paddle so the break usually doesn't get much use.  On low days, the waves come up nice and slow and break for a long time.  Great for just riding.


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## Traditionalist

I've only surfed a few time in Korea, but my older brother surfed all the time before we came to the states. He looked hilarious on a surf board because he got the "Samo" body type, but he's good. Its especially good surfing during the monsoon season. I liked it but I feel like I'm more towards the bottome of the food chain when I'm in the ocean, unless I'm in a boat.


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## Makalakumu

I have been shredding the waves about every other day during the holiday season.  We had really good peeling waves that rose up super smooth and dropped you in quick and easy.  It's nice when you can surf on swell generated waves with no wind.  

On Wednesday, a super huge swell is coming in.  They predict 30 to 40 footers and everyone is holding their breath for The Eddy.  Needless to say, I won't be competing in that, but I'll take a day off from work and go watch!


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