# Dog Attacks



## Jade Dragon Alaska (Aug 4, 2011)

When a dog is just being aggressive, watching your flank and standing your ground may help.  If the attack is not serious, a bop on the nose works great.  If you are going to use a spray, use one that streams and sticks, with military tear gas in it such as Saber.  When mace is sprayed under the nose, in the chest area, it can take out 80% of the oxygen one is breathing.   Bloodshot eyes will blind, and a dog's nose as a target will not kill, but they will sure feel it more than a human, since they are much more sensitive, this will cause a sensory overload, which will slow the dog.  

If a dog is viscous, and intent on harm other tactics are required.  

Dogs can be as quick as a knife, so get something for bait, and let him attack this; such as your shirt, wrapped hand, or stick etc.  If not a stick or chain, use it as bait, feint, distraction, or an instant wrap over his eyes and/or snapping jaws.  Even if the dog shakes it off, that gives you another move; that you should have ready to go. 

If you can are an expert on open hand methods, the dog will realize your hands are talons, similar to his teeth and quick.  I do not recommend this unless you can also either do 30 fingertip pushups, or a fingertip pushup vertically against a wall (headstand, then push up on the flat of your fingers).  

Preferred weapons of nunchakus are great for multiple dogs and on bikes, but are not realistic due to the laws in some states such as California, unless you are on your own property or place of business.  

Chains and sticks are great also, if you happen to have one handy.  

I prefer the throat rip, but it is unlikely you will hit on a first strike, since the target is so close to his teeth.  Puncturing the sternum is a good option.  The single knuckle Buddha-Fist is great for a sternum strike, and a full fist will be noticed.  

Spear hand can be put in between the floating ribs.  

If you are proficient in Dim Mak, or a seasoned boxer, the ear area will hurt and be a knockout, when hit precisely from the correct angle. 

For untrained fighters, break the dogs back with a hammer fist. 

I have fought multiple dogs alone, but have not had to kill one yet.  

Dog is man's best friend, and dog spelled backwards is god.

See Dogs are Awesome at http://www.collegehumor.com/video/6359021/dogs-are-awesome 

Since dogs are said to be derived from domesticating and breeding wolves, you might consider what is going to happen after you deal with the dog, and you have the owner show up.   

A friend of mine Barry, who is usually mild mannered and accommodating was bouncing at a pizza joint in North side Berkeley.  A couple of guys kicked and/or messed with his dog, and he picked up and threw the two Hell's Angles through the plate glass window.  

Then there is the example of Matt Damon's response when trying to be recruited in the movie, 'The Shooter'.


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## Cyriacus (Aug 4, 2011)

I am slightly confused as to how you came to visualise Spear Finger Thrusting a Dog in the Ribs, or having Nunchuks, Sticks, or Chains available. Im not calling it impractical, just a bit of an odd idealogy. Hammerfisting its Spine would work, but killing the Animal, in my opinion, is only necessary if the Dog is either an immediate threat, and you need to respond in a timely manner; Or if its among the many breeds notorious for their Hostility.

In my mind, i see three possible responses.
For all of these, i would try to stand Half-Facing, so as to expose minimal targets.

Option one, would be a Front Push (Heel) Kick. Even if the dog Jumped, it would either have a rather sore (Heh... Sore indeed. Granted, this may also hurt its neck. But its an option) nose/forehead, and be kept nicely at a distance; Or it would be deterred from that particular attack, and need to come in with another; Or, it would go Under the strike, due to being too close at the time, and be forced to attack your shin, on the other leg. In this event, it would be condemning itself to a sharp Knife Hand Strike, or a Stomp. Id prefer a Knife Hand, since cracking some of its Ribs isnt too terrible.

Option two, would be to raise a Leg, tempting it to jump into it, as an easy target. When it grabs on, step down, and a good Hook should work. I know, Hook punching a Dog. But again, not too terrible, compared to breaking its back, which may not be as lethal as one might prefer. Id save this for if i had no other option. Bite holes in a leg muscle will heal. Ruptured Organs or a Mauled Face wont. At least not in any desirable time.

Option three, would be to duck down, and bring both arms up in a Boxing Style Block. The intention being to give it some pointy Elbows to crash into. Assuming, of course, that the Dog tries to jump on you. Which many will. If it doesnt, well, it can only bite one of the four presented limbs, exposing it to a blow from another.

In fact, if it doesnt try and barrel in to you, then it isnt too terribly dangerous in the first place.
And if it isnt close enough to bite you, then its far enough to stave it off with a good kick to the face.

I suppose the main difference between my concepts and yours, would be that yours are fundamnetally based on Hand Positions which would require deliberancy. I am assuming, perhaps needlessly, that such an attack would be largely unexpected, and therefore shorten up most of the methods. You dont need strong fingertips to perform open hand strikes though. Fingertip Strikes? Yes. Open Hand? Not so.

But i still have this visualisation of riding a Bicycle, whilst being chased by Dogs, and fending them off with Nunchaks. Im sorry, but that is just... 

Moving on.
Again, it may be unnecessary for me to be assuming that the majority of scenarios will involve a dog coming out of nowere and charging at you, giving you a second or less to react. But that derives from me preferring to hard-wire responses with as few variables as possible. And the amount of time you have before its on you is a variable.
The Ear Area is also a valid area, but if you are able to hit that, then you are also able to incapacitate it through more straightforward means. You also risk rocking its brain within its skull if you hit too hard. But to each his own.

For a Throat Rip, the main issue i see if getting your hand underneath the dogs mouth. It wont exactly stand there, and allow you to do that. We are assuming that it is actively attacking you, here.

I also have this visualisation of a mild mannered guy picking two people up, and throwing them out a window. This is all very television like 

Moving on.
The most important thing, no matter what your preferred tactics, is that you refrain from going to the ground. This takes away your primary advantage. And however you choose to incapacitate the animal, causing brain damage or paralysis is a bit unnecessary unless you are left with few other practical options.
And if the dog just runs over and bites one of your legs, then it ought not be considered a threat. Just a recovery time for the leg, and a swift dispatch.

Another important thing, is the Bicycle scene. That will amuse me for a long long time.
:angel:


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## Buka (Aug 4, 2011)

Jade Dragon Alaska said:


> When a dog is just being aggressive, watching your flank and standing your ground may help.  If the attack is not serious, a bop on the nose works great.  If you are going to use a spray, use one that streams and sticks, with military tear gas in it such as Saber.  When mace is sprayed under the nose, in the chest area, it can take out 80% of the oxygen one is breathing.   Bloodshot eyes will blind, and a dog's nose as a target will not kill, but they will sure feel it more than a human, since they are much more sensitive, this will cause a sensory overload, which will slow the dog.
> 
> If a dog is viscous, and intent on harm other tactics are required.
> 
> ...



I read this post to my dog. She vehemently disagrees. Of course she's part boxer so she may be prejudiced.


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## billc (Aug 4, 2011)

Ummm...no offense, but did you mean to post this in the martial arts side of the site?


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## Thesemindz (Aug 4, 2011)

Yah, when I get attacked by multiple dogs on bikes the chucks are my go to weapon as well.


-Rob


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## Cyriacus (Aug 4, 2011)

billcihak said:


> Ummm...no offense, but did you mean to post this in the martial arts side of the site?


I suspect he was debating that himself. Or herself.

Since the topic is Dog Attacks, which is perspective. The conversational aspect is MA.
It could *technically* go in either.

However, since the Conversation is going to inevitably be MA oriented, it could perhaps be better suited to the MA General Discussion section.
If not just to get an increased response.
The only reason i for one even saw this is the sidebar thingy.


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## MA-Caver (Aug 5, 2011)

Having been attacked by dogs several times ... some of those are good suggestions... others... well, you'd better be damned quick and your timing just right, as it said dogs can be lightning fast. Which is why whenever I go to pet or handle ANY dog (big or small) I always keep my hands near it's throat, chest, neck or head. At least I'll be one up or in a position to grab and hold the animal. 
If possible grabbing and breaking one of it's front legs is a good deterrent (can you keep fighting with a freshly broken limb?). If possible grabbing the hind leg and holding it up in the air and then spinning around is going to mess the animal up as well, you can body slam it if you got both legs... but as before... you gotta be quick and mean. 
Agreed, ears and nose are among the dogs most sensitive areas as a majority of their knowledge of the world around them is via those two valuable sensory inputs. Incapacitate either one and an average dog is going to want to get away from you. With a trained guard (a professionally trained one) or a police K-9... better just give in to curl up to a ball covering your head/face and neck best as you can like you would/should if a bear attacks and hope there isn't too much damage until the cop/owner shows up and pulls the dog off. If the owner isn't around then you might have to fight for your life. Wrapping your legs around the animal (if/when possible) and squeezing hard as you can while getting ahold of the neck and throat and your elbows locked straight out may help minimize the damage done to you. I've done this when a friend "playfully" sic-ed his dog, german-shepard/collie mix, on me and it (the dog) got out of control. Needless to say the dog went to the vet with 3 broken ribs and a busted nose and that guy and I haven't spoken to each other in over 20 years... my choice no matter how "sorry" he was. I actually wanted to kill the damned thing but he broke it up.
If (again) possible, pulling hard at the loose folds of skin around the mouth and face hurts a dog a lot. But then be careful, it could also piss the dog off more than it originally intended. They're funny that way... they DO have a level of control of how much it will want to bite you. There's a warning snap (if growling doesn't work) and there's the tear you to pieces... and a lot in-between.
As *crazy* as this advice sounds and it may leave you with a messed up hand for a while, if the dog has your hand in it's mouth with the palm down on the tongue, wrap your hand/fingers around the lower jaw and yank down hard to snap it loose, the two major lower canines would prevent the dog from trying to yank away and it cannot bite upwards if pressure is applied from an outside force. Go ahead and try it with a friendly dog any size) and watch what happens, you'll get the idea, just don't do it for long.  
 I'll go to ground with a dog any day and do the body hug/leg scissors and hand wrapped around the neck to keep that head (dog's primary weaponry) as far from me as possible. 
A good MA training is to get a (friendly) dog to wrassle with (in play) but experiment on entrapping the dog for brief moments to get an idea of what could work... hold the dog as long as possible until it fights to break away from you, use that as a template to what a dog can/cannot do when you're holding it, see how the dog is trying to break free from your hold(s) and realize that if it were a bad/mean/trained dog what you'd have to do to maintain superiority. 
A friend who has two huge (well trained) malamutes showed me a neat trick. Get the dog on it's back, put your face at it's neck and if you're not adverse to a mouthful of fur, BITE it and hold it... it's how wolves in the wild make another submit to it's authority, especially if the animal feels threatened with it's life...it's instinctive. 

By the way LOVED the video (could've used a sound warning for the first five seconds) and yes, it does show what dogs are indeed capable of in context of this thread. 
Had to laugh at the poor dog in the airplane doing a roll-maneuver. :lol2:


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## DragonWC (Aug 5, 2011)

Jump over someone's fence. Or jump on the nearest car. If the dog tries to get to you while you are on the car, just kick it down. This have worked for me on more than one occasion. It is much safer also.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk


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## MA-Caver (Aug 5, 2011)

DragonWC said:


> Jump over someone's fence. Or jump on the nearest car. If the dog tries to get to you while you are on the car, just kick it down. This have worked for me on more than one occasion. It is much safer also.


On several parts of that video it showed dogs capable of jumping and one of a K-9 clearing the top of the car and hitting the guy standing behind it enough to knock him away. If you're standing on top of the car, imagine that hitting you. But yeah most part you "could" kick-em off. Just make sure you're posted not to slip off or get yanked off if the dog catches your foot. Remember you may be fast but a dog _can_ be faster. So a fence, tree, wall, whatever you want to put between you and the dog well :idunno: ... if's determined...


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## Grenadier (Aug 5, 2011)

Thread moved to Self-Defense. 

-Ronald Shin
-MT Supermoderator


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## Nomad (Aug 5, 2011)

MA-Caver said:


> As *crazy* as this advice sounds and it may leave you with a messed up hand for a while, if the dog has your hand in it's mouth with the palm down on the tongue, wrap your hand/fingers around the lower jaw and yank down hard to snap it loose, the two major lower canines would prevent the dog from trying to yank away and it cannot bite upwards if pressure is applied from an outside force. Go ahead and try it with a friendly dog any size) and watch what happens, you'll get the idea, just don't do it for long.



I do this when my dog is getting overly aggressive in her play all the time.  They can't bite if you push their jaw down to the their chest.  

What's interesting is the number of people being attacked (in this thread, at least) by wild dogs or Cujo-stunt doubles.  I've yet to meet a dog that aggressive, though admittedly all of the dogs I've met have been at least semi-domesticated and not trained to attack.

For this type of dog, who is the most likely that most people will meet walking down the street or visiting friends, attitude counts for a lot.  Fear is more likely to get you bitten than calm attitude and a soft voice (although sometimes a quick, sharp noise also works well, as it lets them know you're not impressed and to stop with the noise already).

Few dogs "just" attack; you'll tend to get lots of warning from growls, barks and snaps first.  Don't approach that dog (duh!).  If they're jumping up to try to grab or bite you above the waist, knees to the ribs work well to put them back on the ground without exposing your hands to their teeth.  For dogs that you *need* to deal with who are acting aggressively, many will calm if you pin them (flip them onto their back and pin them with a hand on their throat) as they recognize this as dominant behavior (and if not, it's a position that you can do a lot in while the dog is relatively helpless).

It's also useful to note that aggression in dogs is usually linked to territory, protection (of their puppies or their defenseless humans), or dominance.  If you have an idea of why they're being aggressive, it's easier to diffuse the aggression (for example, having *their* human introduce you properly often removes aggression based on protection and/or territory issues).

Avoidance is definitely a better idea than attacking.  If you can't avoid, posture (verbally and non-verbally).  If they attack anyway, use your knees and feet (if decent shoes, not so good if flip flops or barefoot), and get the heck away from there.  Call the animal control authorities once safe to come take care of Cerberus instead.


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## MA-Caver (Aug 5, 2011)

Nomad said:


> I do this when my dog is getting overly aggressive in her play all the time.  They can't bite if you push their jaw down to the their chest.
> 
> What's interesting is the number of people being attacked (in this thread, at least) by wild dogs or Cujo-stunt doubles.  I've yet to meet a dog that aggressive, though admittedly all of the dogs I've met have been at least semi-domesticated and not trained to attack.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the affirmation of some of my suggestions and courses of action. Yeah sometimes I've thwarted attacks from a growling, barking dog by turning around and roaring "NO!" ... their ears drop and tails tuck under their asses and they turn around and slink away. Seems that I happened to approximate their master's voice when they're pissed at the dog for something. Doesn't always work but sometimes it does... even told one dog (behind a fence and just going ape-****) NO! (then) Sit! and the dog did... my buddies walking with me thought it was funny. But once in a while you'll get that dog that is so conditioned to those words that they obey without question, no matter who tells them. Of course about half a minute later the dog must've realized... hey, that's not my master... bark bark rworlf bark snarl... (meaning if I could get past this chain link fence I'd show you to sit!).


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## mook jong man (Aug 5, 2011)

A couple of times I've repelled aggressive dogs by pretending to pick up something off the ground and throw it at them.It only works a few times before they cotton on to the fact that your not really picking anything up , but it does make them turn and back off enough for you to maybe get to safety over a fence or something.


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## Buka (Aug 5, 2011)

Although not really practical because we rarely, if ever, carry one, try an umbrella. Just point it and open it up. It's a great shield, very difficult to bite (even for Pitts) and really gives dogs fits and freaks them out. Even if it doesn't freak them, they can't get in.


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## MA-Caver (Aug 5, 2011)

Buka said:


> Although not really practical because we rarely, if ever, carry one, try an umbrella. Just point it and open it up. It's a great shield, very difficult to bite (even for Pitts) and really gives dogs fits and freaks them out. Even if it doesn't freak them, they can't get in.


Wanna bet?


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## Buka (Aug 6, 2011)

MA-Caver said:


> Wanna bet?



Sure, I love bets. Love dogs, too. Umbrellas I can take or leave.


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