# T-Block or Not T-Block...



## trevorama (Sep 2, 2006)

That is the question. What determines whether you use a T Block or a follow-through block/check the hand -- is it the distance? Is one safer? Is the T-Block for defending against heavier weapons? Or is it simply a matter of preference depending on the follow-up move?

I'm sure my questions brand me as a beginner, but I'm eager to learn. Thank you.


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## HKphooey (Sep 3, 2006)

So far it sounds like you have a good understanding of the block. 

You are correct, the block depends on the stricks.  If you work the 12 angles of attack, you will learn certains times to use it and not to use it.  To keep things simple, use it when you feel that your single stick strike or redirection will not be enough to block the strike or weapon from hitting you.


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## Mark Lynn (Sep 3, 2006)

Just for clarifacation what is your description of a T Block?  I'm not trying to be picky just want to answer, fully understanding the question being asked.

Mark


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## Rich Parsons (Sep 3, 2006)

The Boar Man said:


> Just for clarifacation what is your description of a T Block? I'm not trying to be picky just want to answer, fully understanding the question being asked.
> 
> Mark




Mark,

I had the same question, for I would assume the T Block is the force to force block where the canes all come to a stop aqnd there is a cross. This could be called an x or lower case t or even a + block, I guess.


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## trevorama (Sep 3, 2006)

The Boar Man said:


> Just for clarifacation what is your description of a T Block? I'm not trying to be picky just want to answer, fully understanding the question being asked.


 
Thank you. My apologies for not being clearer -- my limited knowledge of the subject is showing. I may not even be using the correct terminology. 

Rich is dead-on though -- what I meant as a T-Block was when you meet the oncoming stick with the support of your hand/forearm behind the stick (typically) and both sticks come to a stop and form a t or x.

This would differ from what I call a "follow-through" block where your stick meets the other stick and continues though, after which you would typically check the opponent's stick or hand with your free hand.


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## Guro Harold (Sep 3, 2006)

trevorama said:


> Thank you. My apologies for not being clearer -- my limited knowledge of the subject is showing. I may not even be using the correct terminology.
> 
> Rich is dead-on though -- what I meant as a T-Block was when you meet the oncoming stick with the support of your hand/forearm behind the stick (typically) and both sticks come to a stop and form a t or x.
> 
> This would differ from what I call a "follow-through" block where your stick meets the other stick and continues though, after which you would typically check the opponent's stick or hand with your free hand.


Got you!

We call this a "Support Block".


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## Mark Lynn (Sep 4, 2006)

trevorama said:


> Thank you. My apologies for not being clearer -- my limited knowledge of the subject is showing. I may not even be using the correct terminology.
> 
> Rich is dead-on though -- what I meant as a T-Block was when you meet the oncoming stick with the support of your hand/forearm behind the stick (typically) and both sticks come to a stop and form a t or x.
> 
> This would differ from what I call a "follow-through" block where your stick meets the other stick and continues though, after which you would typically check the opponent's stick or hand with your free hand.


 
Trevorama

Again several factors decide what is the proper block but in general I think the supported block would be used in close.
1) when you don't have the time to really hit the incoming weapon hand, 2) or when you are in close and you want to jam the incoming technique
3) or when they have a heavier weapon than might over power your block and you need the support
4) When you want to sucker the guy to trap/monitor their stick.

The "follow through" block would be used when you have more time and can strike the incoming weapon hand and can follow up with a check with your empty hand to his weapon hand.
1) The target "in real" would be the limb or the hand and not the weapon since the follow through block really doesn't stop the weapon as a "force to force" does.  The check is a 2nd line of defense.
2) The hitting of the limb slows the weapon hand down enough to possibly allow you to attach to it and control it to obtain a disarm, lock or controling technique.
3) By hitting through the technique, it then puts your stick into position to follow up with another strike (or series there of), or if you have managed to gain access to their stick to possibly effect a disarm.

I think the answer to your question is all of those things you listed, as I've tried to give you examples that basically could be anyone of the items you listed.  But I also believe it comes down to your (the individulas) fighting style and perference.

If the individual has spent a lot of time in a system such as Balintawak or Modern Arnis that is an inclose method of fighting then the supported or T blocks they will be more comfrotable with since they will have practiced and played with them more.  However if you come from a style that stays a little further out and you are use to the follow through blocks then you will probably fight to keep that distance and they will be the correct ones to use.

Mark


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## Brian R. VanCise (Sep 4, 2006)

I use a reinforced block/parry like this primarily in close when needed.  It is definately a third of fourth kind of option as I would much rather 
a) have it miss.
b) intercept the striking hand
c)Parry with and grab on the off hand
d)Parry with a touch on the off hand and push the opponents stick/knife through

Only then would I want to use a reinfoced Parry/Block like this.  The reason for this is pretty simple in that it is a force to force motion and that is just something I try and avoid if at all possible.:shrug:


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## arnisador (Sep 4, 2006)

We call it a "brace(d) block" (if I understand the description here) and at the camps it was typically taught along with the disarms. One reason for that was that it placed the live hand near where it needed to be in order to effect the disarm.


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## trevorama (Sep 4, 2006)

Thank you Mark and Brian for your thorough responses. You've given me a lot to work with. I really appreciate it. 

I like the idea of slipping to the side and using a follow through block, then using the free hand to control the opponent's hand/stick. If in close, or if caught off guard, a support block comes into play, which could then set up a disarm, as Mark and Arnisador also mention.


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## Rich Parsons (Sep 4, 2006)

trevorama said:


> Thank you. My apologies for not being clearer -- my limited knowledge of the subject is showing. I may not even be using the correct terminology.
> 
> Rich is dead-on though -- what I meant as a T-Block was when you meet the oncoming stick with the support of your hand/forearm behind the stick (typically) and both sticks come to a stop and form a t or x.
> 
> This would differ from what I call a "follow-through" block where your stick meets the other stick and continues though, after which you would typically check the opponent's stick or hand with your free hand.



The Brace Block or Block with a Brace or ..., is used when the studnet believes they do nto have sufficuent force behind their block to make sure their own stick does not bounce back into them or the opponent's stick drives through their own. 

But the really important thing is that the left hand that is used for the brace gets to train coming out behind the stick and be close the opponents stick at the point of impact. This in the end will improve yo timing on your "follow Through" blocks as you call it. 

Good Luck


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## Tarot (Sep 5, 2006)

If I'm thinking right, I believe we call this a post block.  In terms of preference I like the post blocks for lower strikes, against 8 and 9.  This is because you are coming down on the striking stick and I can generate more power to stop it.  

For higher strikes (against 1,2,3,4) I prefer doing a cut block (where you strike the attacking stick and continue down with your stick) because then I can come back with a nice strike or punyo to the face.  Also if I'm against some big huge beefy guy, I can't guarantee my post block will be enough to stop his strike.  And at those angles I would be gambling with my head. :  So I like to go with something that gives me a bit more power.

For strikes against 5,6,7,10,11, I like doing a slice block on those.  This is where your stick makes a sliding movement against the attacking stick (I'm just explaining these so you guys have an idea of what I'm talking about).  It sets me up to come back with a nice strike.

For strikes against 12, roof block is my choice.  


Good question!  :asian:


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## Guro Harold (Sep 5, 2006)

Great Post, Tarot!

Yeah, I haven't smacked sticks Rich Parsons,  but I sure as heck wouldn't block one of his strikes with a support block.

I agree with Brian, that this block would be a last resort block of sorts or could be used against a diminished opponent.

Great discussion!

-Palusut


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## Rocky (Sep 5, 2006)

I teach that a brace block is used in an agressive manner we attack the incoming strike Snuff n Stuff, so the power curve can't build up. If you sit back and brace/block I think you will find yourself being over powered especially against a heavy weapon or a stronger opponent, by jamming in and rechambering your weapon before it can be controlled I think you may find this a little mor effective. This is where equipment comes in handy, if you have the opportunity, suit up so you are protected, and have a training partner just wack away at you with a full blown shot, practice waiting for the impact then try the snuff n stuff method.


Rocky


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## Guro Harold (Sep 5, 2006)

Rocky said:


> I teach that a brace block is used in an agressive manner we attack the incoming strike Snuff n Stuff, so the power curve can't build up. If you sit back and brace/block I think you will find yourself being over powered especially against a heavy weapon or a stronger opponent, by jamming in and rechambering your weapon before it can be controlled I think you may find this a little mor effective. This is where equipment comes in handy, if you have the opportunity, suit up so you are protected, and have a training partner just wack away at you with a full blown shot, practice waiting for the impact then try the snuff n stuff method.
> 
> 
> Rocky


Hi Rocky,

So are you jamming with an right oblique or left oblique off of a #1, for example?

Thanks,

Palusut


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## trevorama (Sep 5, 2006)

Tarot said:


> If I'm thinking right, I believe we call this a post block. In terms of preference I like the post blocks for lower strikes, against 8 and 9. This is because you are coming down on the striking stick and I can generate more power to stop it.
> 
> For higher strikes (against 1,2,3,4) I prefer doing a cut block (where you strike the attacking stick and continue down with your stick) because then I can come back with a nice strike or punyo to the face. Also if I'm against some big huge beefy guy, I can't guarantee my post block will be enough to stop his strike. And at those angles I would be gambling with my head. : So I like to go with something that gives me a bit more power.


 
Hey Andy,

Your post seems to raise a curious contradiction. In the first paragraph you admit to using a post/support block to generate more power, yet in your second paragraph you use a cut/follow through block because your post block may not be enough.

Does it just depend on the angle of defense then, whether the post block is strong or weak? For example, if you blocked the 8 or 9 strike with a cutting block (coming in to and through the opponent's weapon instead of down on it), would that give you enough power to obviate the need for a brace?

It seems like the answer is that if you zone out of the way of the weapon, the cutting/follow-through block is more effective, but if you're trapped or have to respond quickly to the attack, the brace block is ultimately stronger (because you can't use an escape angle to offset the power). That about sum it up?


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## Rocky (Sep 5, 2006)

Palusut said:


> Hi Rocky,
> 
> So are you jamming with an right oblique or left oblique off of a #1, for example?
> 
> ...


 

Not quite sure I get you.......Lets see, if you are striking to the left side of my body ( and I wasn't close enough to do what i would prefer to do, and depending on my body positioning I might step into the strike with my left leg cutting off your power shot and closing the gap..... Idealy I'd strike first as he draws back to swing or step forward to jam in and lean back as I counter while locking, or I may jam with my empty hand Ala Remy while countering with my stick....its hard to say in real life their are way to many variables to say i would always do this or that.

Rocky


Rocky


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## Guro Harold (Sep 5, 2006)

Rocky said:


> Not quite sure I get you.......Lets see, if you are striking to the left side of my body ( and I wasn't close enough to do what i would prefer to do, and depending on my body positioning I might step into the strike with my left leg cutting off your power shot and closing the gap..... Idealy I'd strike first as he draws back to swing or step forward to jam in and lean back as I counter while locking, or I may jam with my empty hand Ala Remy while countering with my stick....its hard to say in real life their are way to many variables to say i would always do this or that.
> 
> Rocky
> 
> ...


 
Got it!

Thanks


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## Tarot (Sep 5, 2006)

trevorama said:


> Hey Andy,
> 
> Your post seems to raise a curious contradiction. In the first paragraph you admit to using a post/support block to generate more power, yet in your second paragraph you use a cut/follow through block because your post block may not be enough.
> 
> ...



Hey T,

Just to get it out of the way, it's Andie, cause I'm like a chick and stuff. 

And yes, you are correct it depends on the angle of attack.  On an 8 and 9 strike, since it's a low strike, I can drop down on the striking stick.  Since I'm going down, a drop block works well for me.  Could I do a cut block?  Sure, I just prefer the drop block there.  And I realize I said post block before, which isn't what I meant.  I did mean drop block.  Sorry about that!

In a close range situation, the post block could indeed be better.  It's something I can tool around with and see what I like doing in close range situation.  As of right now I don't think I have figured out a preference for that just yet.

:asian:


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