# Tactical Carbine



## Tgace (Jan 8, 2005)

Well, I havent really prepared a lengthly post on this topic yet. My hope is to start some discussions on the topic. Off the top of my head, topics that I would like to hit are:

-safety and maintenance
-gunhandling (loading, carry techniques, manipulation, failure drill, etc.)
-marksmanship 
-zeroing the weapon and trajectory
-pros and cons of the carbine
-reactive gun handling skills and manipulations
-transition techniques
-iron sights vs. optics
-field positions
-defensive tactics
-weapon retention 

Missing anything?


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## Tgace (Jan 8, 2005)

*1. Always keep the gun pointed in a safe direction.*
This is the primary rule of gun safety. A safe direction means that the gun is pointed so that even if it were to go off it would not cause injury or damage. The key to this rule is to control where the muzzle or front end of the barrel is pointed at all times. Common sense dictates the safest direction, depending on different circumstances.

*2. Always keep your finger off the trigger until ready to shoot.*
When holding a gun, rest your finger on the trigger guard or along the side of the gun. Until you are actually ready to fire, do not touch the trigger.


*3. Always keep the gun unloaded until ready to use.*
Whenever you pick up a gun, immediately engage the safety device if possible, and, if the gun has a magazine, remove it before opening the action and looking into the chamber(s) which should be clear of ammunition. If you do not know how to open the action or inspect the chamber(s), leave the gun alone and get help from someone who does. 


*When using or storing a gun:*
 

*Know your target and what is beyond.*
Be absolutely sure you have identified your target beyond any doubt. Equally important, be aware of the area beyond your target. This means observing your prospective area of fire before you shoot. Never fire in a direction in which there are people or any other potential for mishap. Think first. Shoot second.

*Know how to use the gun safely.*
Before handling a gun, learn how it operates. Know its basic parts, how to safely open and close the action and remove any ammunition from the gun or magazine. Remember, a gun's mechanical safety device is never foolproof. Nothing can ever replace safe gun handling.

*Be sure the gun is safe to operate.*
Just like other tools, guns need regular maintenance to remain operable. Regular cleaning and proper storage are a part of the gun's general upkeep. If there is any question concerning a gun's ability to function, a knowledgeable gunsmith should look at it.

*Use only the correct ammunition for your gun.*
Only BBs, pellets, cartridges or shells designed for a particular gun can be fired safely in that gun. Most guns have the ammunition type stamped on the barrel. Ammunition can be identified by information printed on the box and sometimes stamped on the cartridge. Do not shoot the gun unless you know you have the proper ammunition.

*Wear eye and ear protection as appropriate.*
Guns are loud and the noise can cause hearing damage. They can also emit debris and hot gas that could cause eye injury. For these reasons, shooting glasses and hearing protectors should be worn by shooters and spectators.

*Never use alcohol or over-the-counter, prescription or other drugs before or while shooting.*
Alcohol, as well as any other substance likely to impair normal mental or physical bodily functions, must not be used before or while handling or shooting guns.

*Store guns so they are not accessible to unauthorized persons.*
Many factors must be considered when deciding where and how to store guns. A person's particular situation will be a major part of the consideration. Dozens of gun storage devices, as well as locking devices that attach directly to the gun, are available. However, mechanical locking devices, like the mechanical safeties built into guns, can fail and should not be used as a substitute for safe gun handling and the observance of all gun safety rules.

*Be aware that certain types of guns and many shooting activities require additional safety precautions.*

*Cleaning*
Regular cleaning is important in order for your gun to operate correctly and safely. Taking proper care of it will also maintain its value and extend its life. Your gun should be cleaned every time that it is used. 

A gun brought out of prolonged storage should also be cleaned before shooting. Accumulated moisture and dirt, or solidified grease and oil, can prevent the gun from operating properly. 

Before cleaning your gun, *make absolutely sure that it is unloaded.* The gun's action should be open during the cleaning process. Also, be sure that no ammunition is present in the cleaning area.


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## Tgace (Jan 8, 2005)

http://www.impactguns.com/store/cleaning_ar15.html


*Cleaning the AR15 Rifle:* 

Military weapons demand better cleaning attention than sporting firearms. The receiver, locking lugs and chamber are more important than the entire length of the bore. If you cannot get the bolt open or a shell into the firearm it becomes useless. A brush does not clean a weapon, it only loosens the powder residue, copper and dirt. A tight patch is essential to mop out these critical areas. 

The locking lugs are the most important area to clean on the weapon. Loose powder residue builds up in the recess in front of the lugs. This buildup may bind the bolt and prevent it from cycling smoothly. This is a progressive cleaning area, the loose residue in this area eventually pack if not removed. One cause of buildup in the locking lugs is incorrect cleaning. If you pull or push a brush back toward the chamber the bristles will catapult the dirt into the recess behind the lugs. Feel the residue from the locking lugs, if it is abrasive, someone cleaned in the wrong direction. 

The chamber must be keep clean to allow easy extraction of the empty shell. If scratches are present the case fire forms into these recesses and prevent the case from ejecting. It is normal to get a gummy residue buildup at the chamber shoulder. This is loosened with the chamber brush. The rotating swab will mop the loose residue out. Pay special attention to this area after firing blank rounds . 

The neck and shoulder of the neck is cleaned by rotating the bore brush and swab before the bore is cleaned. Powder reside buildup in the neck will trap the bullet, late release times and stuck cases result. 

The bore should only be cleaned in the direction of the bullet. If you take abrasive dirt from the muzzle and induce it into the chamber and neck the bullet will drag it down the bore. This is the number one cause of throat erosion. The crown of the muzzle gives a bullet its final direction. Take care not to nick or scratch this area.


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## Tgace (Jan 8, 2005)

Marksmanship:
http://atiam.train.army.mil/portal/atia/adlsc/view/public/297091-1/fm/3-22.9/toc.htm

*4-5. THE FOUR FUNDAMENTALS*

The soldier must understand and apply the four key fundamentals before he approaches the firing line. He must establish a steady position allowing observation of the target. He must aim the rifle at the target by aligning the sight system, and fire the rifle without disturbing this alignment by improper breathing or during trigger squeeze. These skills are known collectively as the four fundamentals. Applying these four fundamentals rapidly and consistently is the integrated act of firing.

a.   *Steady Position.* When the soldier approaches the firing line, he should assume a comfortable, steady firing position. The time and supervision each soldier has on the firing line are limited. He must learn how to establish a steady position during integrated act of dry-fire training (Figure 4-15). The firer is the best judge of the quality of his position. If he can hold the front sight post steady through the fall of the hammer, he has a good position. The steady position elements are as follows.

(1)   *Nonfiring Handgrip*_._ The rifle hand guard rests on the heel of the hand in the V formed by the thumb and fingers. The grip of the non-firing hand is light.

(2)   *Rifle Butt Position*_. _The butt of the rifle is placed in the pocket of the firing shoulder. This reduces the effect of recoil and helps ensure a steady position.

(3)   *Firing Handgrip*_._ The firing hand grasps the pistol grip so it fits the V formed by the thumb and forefinger. The forefinger is placed on the trigger so the lay of the rifle is not disturbed when the trigger is squeezed. A slight rearward pressure is exerted by the remaining three fingers to ensure that the butt of the stock remains in the pocket of the shoulder, minimizing the effect of recoil.

(4)   *Firing Elbow Placement.* The firing elbow is important in providing balance. Its exact location depends on the firing/fighting position used. Placement should allow shoulders to remain level.

(5)   *Nonfiring Elbow*_._ The non-firing elbow is positioned firmly under the rifle to allow a comfortable and stable position. When the soldier engages a wide sector of fire, moving targets, and targets at various elevations, his non-firing elbow should remain free from support.

(6)   *Cheek-to-Stock Weld*_._ The stock weld should provide a natural line of sight through the center of the rear sight aperture to the front sight post and on to the target. The firer's neck should be relaxed, allowing his cheek to fall naturally onto the stock. Through dry-fire training, the soldier practices this position until he assumes the same cheek-to-stock weld each time he assumes a given position, which provides consistency in aiming. Proper eye relief is obtained when a soldier establishes a good cheek-to-stock weld. A small change in eye relief normally occurs each time that the firer assumes a different firing position. The soldier should begin by trying to touch the charging handle with his nose when assuming a firing position. This will aid the soldier in maintaining the same cheek-to-stock weld hold each time the weapon is aimed. The soldier should be mindful of how the nose touches the charging handle and should be consistent when doing so. This should be critiqued and reinforced during dry-fire training.





​*Figure 4-15.  Steady position.​*(7)   *Support*_._ When artificial support (sandbags, logs, stumps) is available, it should be used to steady the position and support the rifle. If it is not available, then the bones, not the muscles, in the firer's upper body must support the rifle.

(8)   *Muscle Relaxation*_._ If support is used properly, the soldier should be able to relax most of his muscles. Using artificial support or bones in the upper body as support allows him to relax and settle into position. Using muscles to support the rifle can cause it to move due to muscle fatigue.

(9)   *Natural Point of Aim*_._ When the soldier first assumes his firing position, he orients his rifle in the general direction of his target. Then he adjusts his body to bring the rifle and sights exactly in line with the desired aiming point. When using proper support and consistent cheek to stock weld the soldier should have his rifle and sights aligned naturally on the target. When correct body-rifle-target alignment is achieved, the front sight post must be held on target, using muscular support and effort. As the rifle fires, muscles tend to relax, causing the front sight to move away from the target toward the natural point of aim. Adjusting this point to the desired point of aim eliminates this movement. When multiple target exposures are expected (or a sector of fire must be covered), the soldier adjusts his natural point of aim to the center of the expected target exposure area (or center of sector).

b.   *Aiming.* Having mastered the task of holding the rifle steady, the soldier must align the rifle with the target in exactly the same way for each firing. The firer is the final judge as to where his eye is focused. The instructor or trainer emphasizes this point by having the firer focus on the target and then focus back on the front sight post. He checks the position of the firing eye to ensure it is in line with the rear sight aperture.

(1)   *Rifle Sight Alignment*_._ Alignment of the rifle with the target is critical. It involves placing the tip of the front sight post in the center of the rear sight aperture (Figure 4-16). Any alignment error between the front and rear sights repeats itself for every 1/2 meter the bullet travels. For example, at the 25-meter line, any error in rifle alignment is multiplied 50 times. If the bullet is misaligned by 1/10 inch, it causes a target at 300 meters to be missed by 5 feet.




​*Figure 4-16.  Correct sight alignment.​*(2)   *Focus of the Eye*_._ A proper firing position places the eye directly in line with the center of the rear sight aperture. When the eye is focused on the front sight post, the natural ability of the eye to center objects in a circle and to seek the point of greatest light (center of the aperture) aid in providing correct sight alignment. For the average soldier firing at combat-type targets, the natural ability of the eye can accurately align the sights. Therefore, the firer can place the tip of the front sight post on the aiming point, but the eye must be focused on the tip of the front sight post. This causes the target to appear blurry, while the front sight post is seen clearly. Two reasons for focusing on the front sight post are:

(a)   Only a minor aiming error should occur since the error reflects only as much as the soldier fails to determine the target center. A greater aiming error can result if the front sight post is blurry due to focusing on the target or other objects.

(b)   Focusing on the tip of the front sight post aids the firer in maintaining proper sight alignment (Figure 4-17).

(3)   *Sight Picture.* Once the soldier can correctly align his sights, he can obtain a sight picture. A correct sight picture has the target, front sight post, and rear sight aligned. The sight picture includes two basic elements: sight alignment and placement of the aiming point.

(a)   Placement of the aiming point varies, depending on the engagement range. For example, Figure 4-17 shows a silhouette at 300 meters where the aiming point is the center of mass, and the sights are aligned for a correct sight picture.




​*Figure 4-17.  Correct sight picture.​*(b)   A technique to obtain a good sight picture is the side aiming technique (Figure 4-18). It involves positioning the front sight post to the side of the target in line with the vertical center of mass, keeping the sights aligned. The front sight post is moved horizontally until the target is directly centered on the front sight post.




​*Figure 4-18.  Side aiming technique.​*(4)   *Front Sight*_. _The front sight post is vital to proper firing and should be replaced when damaged. The post should be blackened anytime it is shiny since precise focusing on the tip of the front sight post cannot be done otherwise.

(5)   *Aiming Practice*_._ Aiming practice is conducted before firing live rounds. During day firing, the soldier should practice sight alignment and placement of the aiming point. Using training aids such as the M15A1 aiming card can do this.

c.   *Breath Control.* As the firer's skills improve and as timed or multiple targets are presented, he must learn to control his breath at any part of the breathing cycle. Two types of breath control techniques are practiced during dry fire. The coach/trainer ensures that the firer uses two breathing techniques and understands them by instructing him to exaggerate his breathing. The firer must be aware of the rifle's movement (while sighted on a target) as a result of breathing.

(1)   The first technique is used during zeroing (and when time is available to fire a shot) (Figure 4-19). There is a moment of natural respiratory pause while breathing when most of the air has been exhaled from the lungs and before inhaling. Breathing should stop after most of the air has been exhaled during the normal breathing cycle. The shot must be fired before the soldier feels any discomfort.




​*Figure 4-19.  Breath control for engaging single targets.​*(2)   The second breath control technique is employed during rapid fire (short-exposure targets) (Figure 4-20). Using this technique, the soldier stops his breath when he is about to squeeze the trigger.




​*Figure 4-20.  Breath control while engagement of short-exposure targets.​*d.   *Trigger Squeeze.* A novice firer can learn to place the rifle in a steady position and to correctly aim at the target if he follows the basic principles. If the trigger is not properly squeezed, the rifle will be misaligned with the target at the moment of firing.

(1)   *Rifle Movement*_._ Trigger squeeze is important for two reasons: First, any sudden movement of the finger on the trigger can disturb the lay of the rifle and cause the shot to miss the target. Second, the precise instant of firing should be a surprise to the soldier. The soldier's natural reflex to compensate for the noise and slight punch in the shoulder can cause him to miss the target if he knows the exact instant the rifle will fire. The soldier usually tenses his shoulders when expecting the rifle to fire. It is difficult to detect since he does not realize he is flinching. When the hammer drops on a dummy round and does not fire, the soldier's natural reflexes demonstrate that he is improperly squeezing the trigger.

(2)   *Trigger Finger*_._ The trigger finger (index finger on the firing hand) is placed on the trigger between the first joint and the tip of the finger (not the extreme end) and adjusted depending on hand size, grip, and so on. The trigger finger must squeeze the trigger to the rear so the hammer falls without disturbing the lay of the rifle. When a live round is fired, it is difficult to see what effect trigger pull had on the lay of the rifle. It is important to experiment with many finger positions during dry-fire training to ensure the hammer is falling with little disturbance to the aiming process.

(a)   As the firer's skills increase with practice, he needs less time spent on trigger squeeze. Novice firers can take five seconds to perform an adequate trigger squeeze, but, as skills improve, he can squeeze the trigger in a second or less. The proper trigger squeeze should start with slight pressure on the trigger during the initial aiming process. The firer applies more pressure after the front sight post is steady on the target and he is holding his breath.

(b)   The coach/trainer observes the trigger squeeze, emphasizes the correct procedure, and checks the firer's applied pressure. He places his finger on the trigger and has the firer squeeze the trigger by applying pressure to the coach/trainer's finger. The coach/trainer ensures that the firer squeezes straight to the rear on the trigger avoiding a left or right twisting movement. The coach/trainer observes that the firer follows through and holds the trigger to the rear for approximately one second after the round has been fired. A steady position reduces disturbance of the rifle during trigger squeeze.

(c)   Wobble area is the movement of the front sight around the aiming point when the rifle is in the steadiest position. From an unsupported position, the firer experiences a greater wobble area than from a supported position. If the front sight strays from the target during the firing process, pressure on the trigger should be held constant and resumed as soon as sighting is corrected. The position must provide for the smallest possible wobble area. From a supported position, there should be minimal wobble area and little reason to detect movement. If movement of the rifle causes the front sight to leave the target, more practice is needed. The firer should never try to quickly squeeze the trigger while the sight is on the target. The best firing performance results when the trigger is squeezed continuously, and the rifle is fired without disturbing its lay.


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## Tgace (Jan 8, 2005)

Basic Skills: This is a good site for all sorts of info. on the AR familiy of rifles/carbines.

http://groups.msn.com/ThePennsylvaniaAR15ShootersSite/basicar15skills.msnw


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## Cruentus (Jan 8, 2005)

Awesome stuff Tom!


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## AC_Pilot (Jan 8, 2005)

Great thread!


Off the top of my head, how about the difference between COVER and CONCEALMENT?

Basically, :

Cover= Any object or item which will stop or deflect projectiles being fired at you. Ideally this should be something that cannot be seen through, although none of us should sneeze at bullet resistent glass if that's all we have 
Cover is important as a FIRST consideration in a shootout. If you can MOVE and gain good cover, say a cinder block or concrete wall, you can later pop out your weapon and eye/hands just enough to fire an accurate round or two and drop your opponent(s) or at least make them slow down  You also can simply stick the weapon out with one hand, assuming you have the strength, (an AR15 makes this easy for a strong user) and pop off some supressive rounds at your enemy's position. This is advisable only if you are in a remote area or a known uninhabited area, to protect innocent bystanders. If nothing else you want to avoid a later civil suit. Immediately retract to full cover. Never over expose yourself if you have good cover.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Concealment. This is effective for two major reasons. it will NOT stop bullets but can conceal your exact position, aiming accurate hits on you impossible. A sheet rock wall or heavy brush cover is a good example. If you can retreat behind concealment, or position yourself there in advance of an impending attack, you can use the element of surprise in your counterattack. Make that counter attack swift, sure and aggressive.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
There's no question that an AR15 M4 or other CAR is the easiest to use overall in this type of combat, but will often lack power to defeat some types of cover which a MBR .308 will defeat. It's always a trade off and the ladies and smaller framed males among us will definitely want to settle for the lighter and easier to shoot AR15/AK74 .223 or similar. I would not feel poorly armed with any of these.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Another thing I strongly advise to keep with your battle rifle is a pair of shooting glasses in clear AND shaded lenses. Protecting your eyes from chips/rocks, etc.. flying off of your "cover" is essential.


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## Tgace (Jan 8, 2005)

As far as mounting the weapon...I prefer a CQB style hold when using a carbine with a CQB length stock or telescoping stock. The butt is placed high near the center of the chest, just to the dominant side of the sternum. Both elbows are down and close to the ribcage. The ribcage "curls" forward and the buttocks should have a slight feel of "sticking out". You face square to the target. You move from the hips with more of a gliding from the knees feel when you walk...heel rolls to toe.


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## Tgace (Jan 8, 2005)

Zeroing Methods: Zeroing is (simplified) making your sight picture and the point of bullet impact match.

Improved Battlesight Zero: by LTC Chuck Santose. A great all purpose zero for all rifles/carbines (no matter the iron sight type); and you zero in yards (50) instead of meters. It keeps the bullet within 2" of the point of aim from 8M to 220M (very flat trajectory). Also perfect for carbines with A1 sights; and ARs having a 'Red Dot' type sight inline with their iron sighs [on a flattop or in front of the carry handle].


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## Tgace (Jan 8, 2005)




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## dearnis.com (Jan 9, 2005)

Some thoughts on extras:
Necessary:
QUALITY magazines.
A good sling system

Nice to have/might need (mission specific)
Optical Sight (W/ Back-up Irons and ability to remove quickly in the event of failure)
Mounted white light

Probably don't need:
Quad-rail forearm with dual front-sight mounted rails
Lights/lasers at 3, 6, 9 o'clock
To mess with the fire control group in any way/shape or form.

Might consider: a second upper built to different specs (warning- will force you to ultimately spend money for a second lower; things snowball rapidly.


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## dearnis.com (Jan 9, 2005)

Other Carbines:

Brooklyn and St.Louis carbines:

So named by Col. Jeff Cooper; the concept is a public-friendly carbine which is acceptible for private use no matter how restrictive the local laws might be.  Base weapon is speced as a short-barrel winchester 94, or marlin 92 (the new marlin spikehorn also has great potential; caliber spec'd as .30-30 or .44 Mag (IMO .357 would do fine).  Weapon Mods- add a quality ghost ring sight.

Since the Colonel wrote this Ashley/XS has made a quality ghost ring  availible for all these models, as well as an easily installed Scout mount.

Pro- packs a hell of a whallop, is still ultimately a deer rifle, you get the whole package for the cost or a quality AR upper, conceals more easily than the AR.

Con- Limited capacity, slow reloading (relatively), manual action.

Subjective- Fun, simple, fills the "tactical" niche for the average person without appearing tactical.

"Thumper"  Another Cooper concept, envisioned as a bulked-up M1 carbine firing a round on the order of the .44 AutoMag.  Coming into limited use today on the AR platform as the .50 Beowulf or .458 SOCOM.

Pro- .45-70  performance in an AR!!  And a real cover-buster.  And probably a hell of a hog gun as well.

Con- Limited utility despite the gee-whizz factor.  Costs for the weapon are reasonable ($600 +/- for a complete upper), but ammo is steep (over $1/round).  Upper's sold complete but slick top, so add $$ for optics and irons.

Subjective.  Really fun.  I probably will pick one up this year, but it will be (mostly) a safe queen.


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## hardheadjarhead (Jan 9, 2005)

The .50 Beowulf in the AR15 format:

http://www.gunblast.com/50Beowulf.htm


Neat concept.  I wonder what it feels like to shoot?

I wonder if anybody has designed a pistol for it.  Somebody will, if they haven't.  Betcha.


Regards,


Steve


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## AC_Pilot (Jan 9, 2005)

For these wierd calibers it REALLY pays *$$$$* to handload. If you learn to cast your own hard cast bullets for these larger calibers, this (carefully loaded and proven) ammo can be reliable and hard hitting backup ammo in an emergency and cut your target shooting costs. I even hard cast my own .662 roundball slugs for my 12 GA SPAS 12 


I have 9mm and .45 ACP Olympic Arms upper conversions..They feed lead bullet reloads flawlessly. You are totally correct you'll eventually want a dedicated lower receiver for these.. it never ends :uhyeah:


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## hardheadjarhead (Jan 9, 2005)

Turns out the handgun is out there for this round...same site, in fact.  

Regards,


Steve


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## dearnis.com (Jan 10, 2005)

The Beowulf is not bad to shoot; the level of recoil is a touch disconcerting coming from an AR though.  I have heard it reported as between a 10 gauge and a 20 gauge; I don't think either is accurate as rifles "feel" different from shotguns.  Definately less than a .458 Winchester or a .375 Holland!


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## Tgace (Jan 10, 2005)

Extremely comprehensive article about the M4 carbine (excellent read for those interested).

http://www.forcerecon.com/strongmenarmed3.htm

A good portion of the article addresses the use of iron sights and optical sighting systems. As usual, there are pros and cons with anything. Optics are great tools and can facilitate faster and more accurate shooting ( depending on the type you are using). The problem with them is they can be fragile and many run on battery power. We all know who Mr. Murphy is..suffice it to say that if you do mount optical sighting systems, have an iron back-up in place. Many of the "red dot" type systems can be set up so that the iron sights can be used through them. There are also various "flip up" front and rear sight systems that can be attached to your weapon. Some of the "scope" type systems like the ACOG have see through channels that allow you to use you irons, or have simple back-up sights on them for emergency use (these are a really "ballpark" affair however).


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## Tgace (Jan 10, 2005)

One of the best sling systems out there. Many other brands have copied the design, but Giles is one of the best.

http://www.gggaz.com/products/giles.php



> When worn properly for a right-handed operator, the webbing is over the top of the right shoulder and supporting the weight of the rifle. It passes around the back and under the left armpit to the forend of the gun where it is attached to the slider buckle. The webbing attached to the forend passes back through this slider, then passes through another at the rear stock attachment point before going up over the shoulder. When properly adjusted, the butt of the rifle should sit just below the right shoulder at about mid-chest level. The butt of the weapon should rest naturally in the shoulder pocket when the weapon is brought up on target. When released, the rifle hangs vertically against the users chest with the muzzle aimed straight, or slightly angled to the ground. This allows you to use your hands without losing control or access to your primary weapon and makes operations such as transitioning to a secondary weapon, opening doors or checking a map (just to name a few) significantly easier.


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## Tgace (Jan 10, 2005)

A good thread from another forum detailing one of my favorite sighting systems. The EOTech. Lots of good pictures.


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## AC_Pilot (Jan 10, 2005)

I use the Giles sling and red dot optics for possible close up shooting on all my semi auto combat rifles. It is essential to have a see-thru mount just in case your battery goes dead. I have found the main culprit in this to be forgetting to turn it off when not in use :uhyeah: 

A few ideas: Get spare lithium batteries now, and store them in a film container with the weapon or your pack/combat vest, etc... Lithium batteries have a 10 to 20 year storage life. A film container can hold at least 10 of the wafer style batteries. Tha's a lot of field use.

Use pop open Butler Creek scope end covers for all your weapons optics. The reflective glare from your scope lens can give your position away.

I like the larger 45 mm Tasco style red dot optics since they make both eyes open shooting easier. The 30 mm size makes you squint and strain thru that small lens. The 45 mm keeps your peripheral vision open. Besides they are very reasonably rugged, inexpensive and therefore having a spare or three is economical. Ideally, if you have a replacement scope to mount, you can use a weapon mounted laser to quickly dial in your replacement scope in the field. Simply set the laser to match the iron sight setting, then use laser to get the scope setting right, dialing the scope to match. 

I also like to have an illuminated (4x to 12x powered, depending on caliber/weapon) ) rifle scope and a night vision scope for each weapon, each fully sighted in and mounted on a quick detach see-through mount. This gives you close up potential with the red dot or iron sights, long range with the powered scope, and night fighting capabilities.


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## Tgace (Jan 10, 2005)

AC_Pilot said:
			
		

> I use the Giles sling and red dot optics for possible close up shooting on all my semi auto combat rifles. It is essential to have a see-thru mount just in case your battery goes dead. I have found the main culprit in this to be forgetting to turn it off when not in use :uhyeah:
> 
> A few ideas: Get spare lithium batteries now, and store them in a film container with the weapon or your pack/combat vest, etc... Lithium batteries have a 10 to 20 year storage life. A film container can hold at least 10 of the wafer style batteries. Tha's a lot of field use.


Theres also some nice pistol grip replacements with watertight compartments for battery storage...


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## AC_Pilot (Jan 10, 2005)

And several of the Cherokee Delta and CAR cheekpads for standard and CAR stocks have battery compartments. They really are for the lithium 6 volt batts but the wafers sometimes fit also.  I sell Cherokee so I get to handle and examine them and they are very lightweight and give a good cheek weld for optics use.


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## Tgace (Jan 10, 2005)

Whats your opinion on the Bushmaster ACE Skeleton stock? Been looking at it. The foam cover over the buffer tube has me wondering about durability. Seen some guys doing a paracord wrap instead......


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## GAB (Jan 10, 2005)

Hi all,

Good post Tgace, good information.

I have a 458 Win Mag...Weighs 19 lbs. I figured if I could carry the BAR in the early 60s, heck I could carry this. Nice to shoot not much recoil. 

Regards, Gary


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## AC_Pilot (Jan 10, 2005)

Although I own several Bushmaster CARs, I have not seen this "foam" stock. What I do have are the all aluminum 4 position Bushmaster CAR stocks which are very sturdy.Bushmaster makes some great stuff but I would want to handle and play with that stock first....

Regards,
Steve


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## TonyM. (Jan 11, 2005)

Lever action Gab?
I do a good impersonation of .458's 44-40's and 444 marlins. Ya walk downrange slowly like a bulldog and punch the target really hard.


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## AC_Pilot (Jan 11, 2005)

I had a nice .444 marlin and I wish I had not sold it. I'm going to get another one in stainless steel as soon as I can find a private sale. They can shoot .44 mag and .44 special in a pinch, BTW...


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## Tgace (Jan 17, 2005)

The Transition:

If youre in the middle of a firefight with your carbine and it goes "click" (or nothng) when it should go "bang", you have what is known as a malfunction. You options are: One, clear the malfunction. Two, transition to another weapon or three, use the darn thing as a club. If you are enganged in a long range fight (say 75yd.+ or 50yd+ and hes not rushing at you) and you have some cover, clearing the malfunction may make better sense as hitting a target that is shooting back at that distance with a pistol is a crap shoot. The generic method of doing that with a magazine fed semi-auto can be remembered as SPORTS.

S-Slap the magazine to make shure its seated properly. (Sometimes you may feel the bolt close on a live round when you do this and you may just decide to try shooting again.)

P-Pull back the bolt.

O-Observe the chamber as you Pull. Look to see if a round is ejected or an empty casing. Look into the chamber to see if there is a round stuck in there or a double feed.

R-Release the bolt, letting it go forward.

T-Tap the forward assist on weapons that have them (this one may be omitted if yours dosent have one).

S-Shoot.

If the fight is upclose and personal you wont have time to bother with this. If you are within H2H range you may just consider going bayonet style on the guy with your long gun. If you have the gap ,and a secondary weapon, its time to go to it.There are various methods to do this, each with Pros and Cons.

1. If on a sling system, swing the carbine down and away with the weak hand while drawing pistol with the strong one. Start shooting with one hand if you have to and bring up the support when you can.

Pros:
-This means you are using a sling system which has pros and cons in itself. Pro's:The sling gan give you better support for shooting and lets you free up your hands when you need to climb, cuff, dig out gear, etc. and still have your weapon "on you". The Con's are its attached to you and can hamper your movements and bind you up.
- Keeps the carbine on you so you can clear it and get it back into the fight when the immediate threat is taken care of.
Cons:
-Leaves the weapon attached to you and can be used as a "handle" to drag you by the BG.
-Can tie up your legs and hamper mobility.
-Harder to use the carbine as an impact weapon if needs be.

2. Drop the carbine and draw the handgun.
Pros:
-This means the carbine is unslung which makes it easier to change shoulders and fight with the carbine as an impact weapon.
-Slings cant be used to drag you down.
Cons:
-You may have to move away from the tossed weapon. Odds of geting it back "up" are slim then.
-If you drop it in mud, snow, sand it may just make clearing the malfunction later worse.

3. Hold the carbine to the chest with the weak hand and shoot one handed with the strong.
Pros:
-Same as above but you add keeping the carbine with you to them.
Cons:
-Pretty obvious, you can only shoot one handed and bolth hands are full.


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## GAB (Jan 17, 2005)

TonyM. said:
			
		

> Lever action Gab?
> I do a good impersonation of .458's 44-40's and 444 marlins. Ya walk downrange slowly like a bulldog and punch the target really hard.


Mine is a bolt action. 

I had a friend loaded up some fast moving 180 gr. Shot a 3 point in the front shoulder, he never used it again on deer. I don't remember but I think it was for camp meat (hunting bigger stuff). Not much left according to him...

Said, it went down like it was hit by a truck. Lot of brush so he picked the 458 for the trip. Said he picked the least potent that he had brought along.

180 gr out of an "06" is pretty rough on something not weighing 100 lbs.

Regards, Gary


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## Tgace (Jan 19, 2005)

One of the things people like about the AR system is the ease in which you can customize the platform. There are countless products and attachments that can be added. That being said its easy to go overboard and allow form to outstrip function. Personally, I have a full size 20" A2 with a fixed carry handle. Id love to get a shorty upper, flat-top, vertical foregrip, optical sight, light setup. Problem is I shoot the darn thing 1-2 a year as I get all the shooting that I do at work. So its an issue of "what I want vs. what I can justify spending".








I could easily wind up spending $1000+ on top of what Ive already spent on my AR to get here.


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## Tgace (Jan 22, 2005)

These threads have some excellent information on this topic. Its worth the effort of registering to see the photos if its a topic you are really interested in...

http://www.selfdefenseforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9596&page=1&pp=25&highlight=fighting+carbine

http://www.selfdefenseforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2076&highlight=hand+carbine


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