# Pistolcraft



## Tgace (Dec 9, 2004)

My intention for this thread is to discuss, point by point, pistolcraft. Starting with the basics and moving along as the discussion goes. So to start with....

Grip.

Many people like to start with stance, but as stances are prone to a lot of change on the street, I like to start with grip, which is really the fundation IMHO.

Many people do not think about how to grip a handgun. For an auto pistol especially, the grip makes a big difference. There are various shooting systems; weaver, center axis relock, Chapman method etc. etc. that all recommend various grips. I figure we'll just start simple.....

With your fingers and thumb making an "L", place your strong hand as high up on the grip as is comfortably possible. The apex of the web of your hand should be centered at the rearmost point of the curve in the gun's backstrap. This makes sure you are not gripping the gun too far, or not far enough, around the grip. The forefinger should rest naturally along the side of the frame above the trigger and the other three fingers should wrap easily around the frontstrap of the grip. The strong-hand thumb may either be in a "high" or "low" position. Caution must be used in both of these positions. Too low a position may actuate the magazine release, dumping your mag unintentionally. Too high a position may induce stoppages by unintentionally dragging your thumb on the slide as it cycles.

Your weak hand, should wrap naturally around your strong hand with all of the fingers below the trigger guard. Your weak hand thumb can lay over the top of your strong hand thumb to form a cross ("+"). Other thumb placements are thumbs bent, weak thumb pressing down on the nail of the strong thumb or thumbs stacked, strong on top of weak.

Both elbows should be slightly bent, but both wrists must be locked. The strong hand should be pushing forward slightly, and the weak hand should be pulling back slightly.

Anybody else have any pointers on grip?


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## te75uo (Dec 9, 2004)

I tend to put my right hand high up on the grip, and wrap my left hand under the clip, almost palm up. My fingers of my left hand will wrap around 2-3 of the fingers of my right hand. I will slightly pull with my left hand towards my body, while pushing outwards with my right hand to increase stability.

On a kinda unrelated note, I was tought by a Vietnam sniper that when using a rifle it is helpfull to grab a twig from a tree, and pull it back some with your supporting hand. The muscles you use to hold the twig back will help you steady the gun. About the same principle as pushing, and pulling with your hands on a pistol.


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## Tgace (Dec 9, 2004)

Well, if your "cup and saucer" gripping an automatic I wouldnt recommend it..not a slam, but mechanically it doesn't accomplish much.

Good site from the Midwestern training group about grip...
http://www.midwesttraininggroup.net/Tips/get_a_grip.htm



> How tight to grip the pistol is often a topic for debate. Consider the source when taking this advice. If the shooter is from a PPC, Action Pistol, or Bulls-eye background you will likely receive different answers. All have validity for competition and Ive used every one at some point or other. "Hold it firmly as a hammer when driving nails." "Maintain 40% grip with the gun hand and 60% with the support hand." "Hold it lightly as though it were a quail, firmly enough so that it does not fly away yet delicately so as not to crush it."​Bull Hockey.CRUSH down on the grip. Hold it as tightly as you can without setting up tremors in the hands. If you are trying to shoot full power ammunition from a fighting handgun and want to deliver the shots quickly, its the way to go. Under the effects of body alarm reaction and fight or flight reflex, one of the first things to leave you is manual dexterity. Its seems disingenuous at best to suggest some fine motor dexterity, subtle nuance type grip. Limbs (in this case, fingers) are sympathetic. During this inter-limb response, what one is doing, the others want to do as well. Not holding the gun hard while moving the trigger finger can allow the other fingers to flex and pull the gun off line. A hard hold on the pistol eliminates this common malady called "milking" which tend to make the shots go south by southwest for the right handed shooter. Muscle down on the grip with both hands as tightly as you can without shaking. Curl the thumb down to add even more strength.​


​


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## loki09789 (Dec 9, 2004)

Binocular/monocular sighting.  I personally prefer the binocular approach.  Under stress your visual awareness is going to go to crap real fast, closing one eye will only compound the problem IMO.


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## Tgace (Dec 9, 2004)

loki09789 said:
			
		

> Binocular/monocular sighting. I personally prefer the binocular approach. Under stress your visual awareness is going to go to crap real fast, closing one eye will only compound the problem IMO.


When the #$%% hits the fan you probably wont be able to close one eye anyway...they will both be open WIDE. Of course that depends. In situations where you know there will be gunplay you gain a modicum of control. When it jumps off on you, its all autopilot...


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## gozanryu (Dec 9, 2004)

Well, I think the bi vs mon - ocular thing is a training issue. I have had difficulty  "breaking" that habit, or re-training those whove spent there lives using the monocular style of shooting. I agree that having both eyes open is the way to do it, if your training a cherry. Many shooters have shot for years with an eye closed,. It seems more effective to train them from that point rather than try to re-train them from ground zero. Also, I cannot stress enough my belief in steady, consistent training. That is to say, I would rather spend time, 3-5 times a week expending 50 rounds, than expending 500 rounds on 2 Saturdays a month. There is no substitute (imo) for "time in the saddle" Almost universally I have seen DRASTIC improvement employing this method, rather than occasional, intense time at the range. I am also and advocate of "dry gun" handling and firing. Dry fire drills are invaluable to creating familiarity with the gun. And, as I've stated before, I also think it's important to pick a gun, and use THAT gun. My pistol(s) are worn to the white from breaking leather, and re-holstering, and cleaning, and drilling. I want to create a mind state of "mushin" as it applies to handling the gun. The idea is to create an "autonomic" relationship with the gun. Rather than a "thinking process", it should be an "organic" process.

This is my opinion, it and $1.35 will get you a SMALL house coffee at Starbucks.


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## Cruentus (Dec 9, 2004)

This is a great thread, guys.

When I started really getting into pistolcraft (which was only a short time ago) when I would miss my mark, it was usually due to a grip mistake. I feel that catching grip issues early can really help curb bad habits.

I would like to add one golden nugget, because this was a mistake I made early on. Watch your pinky finger. Don't grip too tight with your pinky finger, and don't use the pinky when you squeeze the trigger, and watch for a "pinky flich" or tensing of the pinky when the gun goes bang (not anticipating the bang will help the third one). I say this because I had too tight of a grip with my pinky and I was using it to pull, which caused me to shoot below target. When I fixed this problem, I was doing a lot better.

You should be able to hold the pistol firmly between the web of the thumb and index/middle fingers w/o the aid of the pinky finger.

Anyways, that is something that helped me...

Paul  :ultracool 

You should be able to


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## Cruentus (Dec 9, 2004)

loki09789 said:
			
		

> Binocular/monocular sighting.  I personally prefer the binocular approach.  Under stress your visual awareness is going to go to crap real fast, closing one eye will only compound the problem IMO.



This is worth quoting because it is such good advice. Keep both eyes open!!  :erg:  :boing1:


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## loki09789 (Dec 9, 2004)

Tgace said:
			
		

> When the #$%% hits the fan you probably wont be able to close one eye anyway...they will both be open WIDE. Of course that depends. In situations where you know there will be gunplay you gain a modicum of control. When it jumps off on you, its all autopilot...


Exactly why it is what I prefer.  I will have enough stress on my in the moment, the LAST thing I should be doing during training is practicing something that my natural physiological stress reaction will resist.  I SHOULD be devoting time to things that allow me to work with those natural responses and are more practical.

This is why I like the 'flinch factor' logic in 'combatives training' like BLAUER and such.  Base your training on sound understanding of motor skill, and physiological conditions under stress so that you don't create more friction in the moment.


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## Tgace (Dec 9, 2004)

Tulisan said:
			
		

> This is a great thread, guys.
> 
> When I started really getting into pistolcraft (which was only a short time ago) when I would miss my mark, it was usually due to a grip mistake. I feel that catching grip issues early can really help curb bad habits.
> 
> ...


Actually, what you had going on is called "milking" and is a problem with the "hold the gun gently aka:bird holding grip" the latest technique in pistolcraft is the "crush grip" (quoted above). You should be mashing down with both hands, especially on the lighter weight polymer autos. Under combat pressure you are not going to get a "bird holding" grip or a 60%-40% grip. You are going to sympathetically mash down with both hands. With crisp recoiling loads and lighter guns, its a better technique to hold the gun on target with rapid firing. Most of this stuff happens at 25 yds. max and most of the time within 7 feet. Target grip is un-necessary.


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## Tgace (Dec 9, 2004)

gozanryu said:
			
		

> Well, I think the bi vs mon - ocular thing is a training issue. I have had difficulty "breaking" that habit, or re-training those whove spent there lives using the monocular style of shooting. I agree that having both eyes open is the way to do it, if your training a cherry. Many shooters have shot for years with an eye closed,. It seems more effective to train them from that point rather than try to re-train them from ground zero. Also, I cannot stress enough my belief in steady, consistent training. That is to say, I would rather spend time, 3-5 times a week expending 50 rounds, than expending 500 rounds on 2 Saturdays a month. There is no substitute (imo) for "time in the saddle" Almost universally I have seen DRASTIC improvement employing this method, rather than occasional, intense time at the range. I am also and advocate of "dry gun" handling and firing. Dry fire drills are invaluable to creating familiarity with the gun. And, as I've stated before, I also think it's important to pick a gun, and use THAT gun. My pistol(s) are worn to the white from breaking leather, and re-holstering, and cleaning, and drilling. I want to create a mind state of "mushin" as it applies to handling the gun. The idea is to create an "autonomic" relationship with the gun. Rather than a "thinking process", it should be an "organic" process.
> 
> This is my opinion, it and $1.35 will get you a SMALL house coffee at Starbucks.


Do some simunitions training and you will see that the habit isnt really that hard to break. Up close and when the BG has the drop on you you will point shoot with both eyes open. I was a dyed in the wool weaver/one eye shooter. Ive since seen how Im going to really shoot under stress and am now a modern isosceles/ 2 eye shooter.

When it comes to aiming style. Point, flash sight and aimed fire. Id say that you should train in all. Up close under pressure shooting will 99% be point. A little distance and/or some advance warning that shooting will happen and you will flash sight (just get the sights on target, typically the front sight and compress the trigger). From long range and/from behind cover you may be able to get into your sights and really draw a bead on the BG. But as most of the stuff is close 90% should be on point and flash sight picture shooting. IMHO.


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## dearnis.com (Dec 10, 2004)

Grip- high and firm.  Make the gun part of you.  (get grips that fit YOUR hand).  Cross thumbs- my preference but I have seen some guys do very well with straight thumbs.

Stance- agree; it needs to be fluid.

Binocular/monocular sighting.  You should be able to use both when appropriate.  Like it  or not "less than aimed" fire is the norm at close range.  As noted above, see what actually happend during simunition training (answer-everyone gets shot in the hand because evryone fixates on the weapon....)



> Do some simunitions training and you will see that the habit isnt really that hard to break. Up close and when the BG has the drop on you you will point shoot with both eyes open. I was a dyed in the wool weaver/one eye shooter. Ive since seen how Im going to really shoot under stress and am now a modern isosceles/ 2 eye shooter.



Yup.


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## KenpoTex (Dec 10, 2004)

Great discussion guys.  The only thing I would add is with regard to the proper grip.  Actually it reffers to the position of the index finger when actually shooting.  I was taught to position the finger so that the pad of the finger (rather than the first joint or part of the finger below the joint) is the part actually in contact with the trigger.  This allows the index finger to operate independantly so to speak giving you a smoother trigger squeeze.  That way you reduce the chance of "pulling" your shots.  It also faciltates proper formation for the rest of the grip.


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## GAB (Dec 10, 2004)

Hi all, 
I like this one, Bio and squeeze, hold that position for that last nano sec and boom... On target everytime.

Distance means the perp is at a disadvantage as a rule so the nano sec is really important, not to buck, jerk or pull...Just squeeze...

If using double action then get that round off as fast and good as you can then follow up with a second quickly. 

Main reason the Glock is so popular same o same o all the time. Colt 1911A1 also if carried in the ready, got to release that safety and have a better grip as a rule.
Lots of safeties for you to go through but safe is good, gives you that instant to shoot or not. I have seen quite a few good men succumb to the good shoot, young or innocent in line of fire thing. 

To kill an innocent is a terrible thing. To have to kill is tough enough but to live with the other is rough. 
I have seen (like I typed) many a good man succumb to the nightmares and end their career and lives also.

MY 2 cents. 

Regards, Gary


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## Tgace (Dec 10, 2004)

Trigger Squeeze:

There is a wide variety of trigger "feels" available today, from traditional double/single action to double-action only, and Glock's "safe-action". Each of these requires a slightly different trigger technique. The most difficult to master is the traditional double/single action. The transition from the first shot's double-action to the remaining shots' single-action requires the shooter to learn and master two different trigger techniques and to transition between them after the first shot. The easiest trigger to learn and master is the Glock's. It is the lightest version of the double-action-only trigger, and the lack of levers and buttons makes transitioning revolver shooters to autos easiest on the Glock.

The key to trigger control is a steady press of the trigger. The trigger finger should slip into the trigger guard from its "safety" position on the frame only when you are ready to shoot. Otherwise, it stays out of the trigger guard along the side of the frame. One must guard against "slapping" the trigger, however. Once you notice contact with the trigger, go to the smooth rolling motion described below. Once inside the trigger guard, the area on the pad of the forefinger between the center of the pad and the first knuckle should touch the trigger. Having the trigger touched by the center of the pad or down in the crevice of the first joint of the finger will cause the gun to pull to the left or right and slightly down instead of staying exactly where the sights were aligned. (Other than flinching, this is the most common cause of misses.) The trigger press should be a smooth rearward steady rolling motion. Watch the front sight and align it with the target while the trigger is being pressed. One must guard against squeezing with the entire hand. The action of your finger against the trigger should be totally independent of the movement of the rest of your hand. When the trigger reaches the point where the trigger releases the firing mechanism, the shooter will feel a sudden release of tension on the trigger. This is the trigger's "break". This moment should come as a surprise, especially on single-action mode. You should be able to "call" your shot by remembering where the front sight was on the target, the moment the trigger breaks.

Practice your trigger control by dry-firing your pistol at home. Use a target on the wall. Make sure the pistol is unloaded (check it three times after you've put all ammunition in another room)!! Then, practice all of these points while aiming at your "target". Never dry-fire more than 50 to 100 times in each session. Take a break and relax, then go back to dry-firing. You cannot dry-fire too much. Just make sure to concentrate on these fundamentals, and as soon as you feel fatigued or recognize that you can't do each one of these fundamentals every time you dry-fire, stop and take a break.

There are a lot of details of marksmanship fundamentals here, but the entire list can be boiled down to: "Front Sight, Press." Focusing on the front sight and good trigger control are the essentials that are absolutely required to shoot well. The others are needed to make you into a great shot, but to even begin to be a good/passable shot, you MUST master, front sight, and trigger press.


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## Tgace (Dec 10, 2004)

Check out this guy....specialized shooting, but impressive nonetheless. 

http://www.doublealpha.biz/images/BlakeMiquez2b.avi


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## Cruentus (Dec 10, 2004)

Awesome post on trigger squeeze, Tom.

A neat little trick that one can employ when dryfiring depending on the gun's sights is the "coin trick."

Take a penny and balance it on your front sight (if you are able too; luckily I can with the sites on my sig). Then dry fire, practicing your trigger pull. You should be able to squeeze all the way through until the gun clicks without the penny falling off the site. If you are flinching, jerking, "milking" as I was told earlier, or if your holding too firmly or not firmly enough causing your hand to shake, pulling to the right or left when you squeeze, or basically not keeping a steady hand through the entire trigger pull, then the penny falling to the floor will tell you.

Now obviously this will not help you with everything, you can't do it from a draw, etc.; so it has limitations. But it helped me steady my hand through my shot. I noticed a major difference right away when I did some reps with this. It is good even to do it before actually shooting at the range to make sure the hands are steady, especially if you have developed a flinch.

Anyways, just a little fun trick...

Paul :mp5:  :ultracool


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## Tgace (Dec 10, 2004)

Theres also some nice (read expensive) systems where a laser is inserted into the handgin and shot at a target system hooked up to your PC. Shows the aiming/squeezing/firing track ...neat.


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## Cruentus (Dec 10, 2004)

Tgace said:
			
		

> Theres also some nice (read expensive) systems where a laser is inserted into the handgin and shot at a target system hooked up to your PC. Shows the aiming/squeezing/firing track ...neat.



My wife would practice with it, then shoot me for spending our cash on one of those!  :uhyeah:


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## Tgace (Dec 10, 2004)

Why do you think I dont have one...


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## Tgace (Dec 10, 2004)

The Draw...

1.Hand To Gun: Clear away clothing if necessary, get a good initial grip, high on the backstrap (it will only get worse from here under pressure). Relase any retention devices.


2.Clear Holster and Rotate Muzzle Towards Target: Get the muzzle pointed at the target with your forerarm close to your torso. Its a good retention position and you can start shooting from here if necessary. Keep the weak hand out of the way. I like to have it palm down on my belly.


3.Hands Together: As the gun moves forward meet the weak hand. You can stop here; muzzle forward, elbows in tight to torso in a "third eye" position (muzzle is third eye, where eyes go, muzzle goes) as a ready/search position if you need to. Otherwise it flows into...


4.Gun To Target: Simple enough. Should be smooth and straight to target, not a scooping upward sweep....


5.Front Sight/Trigger Squeeze: See last (long) post...


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## GAB (Dec 10, 2004)

Tgace said:
			
		

> The Draw...
> 
> 1.Hand To Gun: Clear away clothing if necessary, get a good initial grip, high on the backstrap (it will only get worse from here under pressure). Relase any retention devices.
> 
> ...


Tgace,

Good post, good information for all, I like to drop down a little (similar to horse stance or semi horse R or L leg forward or not) at the time when the weak hand and the gun hand meet to extend. 

It all depends on the situation, again good post.

Regards, Gary


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## Tgace (Dec 11, 2004)

Target engagement.

I subscribe to the "shoot em to the ground" theory. Others like the "2 and assess" still others like the failure drill (2 to COM 1 to head), and so on. Opinions??


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## GAB (Dec 11, 2004)

Tgace said:
			
		

> Target engagement.
> 
> I subscribe to the "shoot em to the ground" theory. Others like the "2 and assess" still others like the failure drill (2 to COM 1 to head), and so on. Opinions??


Hi Tgace,

In days of old with revolvers, I liked the 2 and assess routine (only 6 available or 5 with a chief)...

In today's newer semi-auto big mags and extra ammo in belts on body, I think in a real fast exchange 5 and assess would be my thoughts. 

"Shoot um to the ground" still sounds good though.

Regards, Gary


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## shane23ss (Dec 11, 2004)

I start with grip as well.


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## KenpoTex (Dec 12, 2004)

Tgace said:
			
		

> Target engagement.
> 
> I subscribe to the "shoot em to the ground" theory. Others like the "2 and assess" still others like the failure drill (2 to COM 1 to head), and so on. Opinions??


I think that it depends on several factors: type of weapon, number of attackers, type of attack.  For example, if I'm carrying a revolver or a single-stack 1911 I wouldn't want to put five or six in the first guy and only have one or two for the next one so in that case I'd probably go with 2 or 3 then assess.  On the other hand, "shoot 'till they drop" is also a sound tactic (remember the pizza-guy shooting recently, it took 10 rounds to put the attacker down).  I think like any other aspect of SD, we're talking about a dynamic situation.  If I have a guy running towards me who continues to advance I'm not going to stop and assess, I'm going to shoot 'till he goes down or 'till the slide locks.
  As far as targeting, I think COM is the way to go simply because trying to hit someone in the head is going to be quite a feat when your target isn't standing still, possibly shooting back, and you're opperating under an addrenaline dump.  Recently in some of my reading I've noticed that some departments are starting to train their personel to shoot to the pelvis first (for example, 2 low 2 COM) when attacked by someone with an impact or edged weapon.  The logic is that someone with one of the aforementioned weapons is only dangerous if they can actually hit/stab/slash you with it so by taking out the pelvis they are going to go down.


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## Escrima Demon (Dec 13, 2004)

How do you shoot a failure drill?

  Is that like the one my dad and his friends call a Mozambique drill from Africa?

I see people on tv shoot 3 fast shots is that it?

Thanks from a newbee


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## Tgace (Dec 13, 2004)

Escrima Demon said:
			
		

> How do you shoot a failure drill?
> 
> Is that like the one my dad and his friends call a Mozambique drill from Africa?
> 
> ...


Yes...thats it.


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## dearnis.com (Dec 13, 2004)

Can't stress grip enough; get it right before clearing the holster.
Haven't heard it called "shoot 'em to the ground' before......but yeah, works for me.  


> Recently in some of my reading I've noticed that some departments are starting to train their personel to shoot to the pelvis first (for example, 2 low 2 COM) when attacked by someone with an impact or edged weapon. The logic is that someone with one of the aforementioned weapons is only dangerous if they can actually hit/stab/slash you with it so by taking out the pelvis they are going to go down.


  Interesting....but I don't think I like it.  I can see follow-ups to the pelvis, but not initial shots.


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## Tgace (Dec 13, 2004)

My Tac team practices a pelvic shot sub-gun drill as an alternate body armor response.


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## Tgace (Dec 13, 2004)

From Gabe Suarez's forum.....

http://www.warriortalk.com/showthread.php?t=3382&highlight=target+transition

AMBIDEXTROUS GUNFIGHTING 

Go to any Force on Force class and watch the students. Invariably, youll find the majority of them get shot in the hands. This is due to several factors. Primarily, the shooter is placing the gun midway between him and the adversary, thus any incoming rounds will likely impact the gun and hands. Secondly, the adversary may visually focus on the gun thus orienting his physical index toward the gun as he fires. And finally, it could just be pure chance. Nevertheless, if anything is going to be hit, its very likely to be the hands. 

This brings up some interesting needs in training. The majority of shooters spend time training material they already know. Its an ego thing. The majority of shooters are also highly deficient in one handed shooting skills, or in shooting with their less dexterous hand. Lets remember that although firing a pistol with two hands generally yields better result, the weapon was intended to be a one-handed weapon. This leads us to an analysis of Ambidextrous Shooting (some call it Bi-Lateral Shooting). Specifically we need to address why its needed, when it may employed, and how to train the skill. 

Other than the wounded shooter factor, are there any other situations where on-handed shooting would be required? 

1). Movement Off Line Sometimes requires Firing On-Handed. 

In our Close Range Gunfighting Series and its close cousin, the Interactive Gunfighting/Force on Force Classes, we establish early on that you must move off the line of attack. In fact, if you do not move, regardless of how fast your combat master draw is, you will get shot or stabbed by the other man. Remember that gunfights do not happen at ten yards, but rather ten feet and closer, thus the difference between a 1.0 second draw and a 1.5 second draw are not very great. As Lynn Thompson of Cold Steel pointed out a few years ago, proximity negates skill. At ten feet even a neophyte with a rusty Raven .25 Auto can get lucky, and ten feet is a long distance in true gunfighting. Movement off line is key and mandatory to avoid being shot. 

When we move off line, we prefer to move laterally (3:00 or 9:00) , or at angles such as the 5:00, 7:00, or 2:00 and 10:00. We prefer to walk as God designed us to walk, forward. The popular sideways crab walk will not move you off the line fast enough. Similarly, almost never do we want to move backwards. Again, this is shown in force on force drills when every backpedaler gets literally run over by his adversary. 

When moving at these angles its sometimes impossible to maintain a traditional two-handed grip on the pistol. Your goal is always to keep the muzzle pointed at the adversary. You maintain that objective and move your body around that orientation. Sometimes keeping a two-handed grip will be easy, at other times it will not. Rather than give up the objective of keeping muzzle on contact, you may need to go one-handed. 

As an example take a right handed shooter moving to his left. At some point, he will be unable to maintain both hands on the gun, and the gun oriented on the threat as he moves. As the angle between him and his adversary grows, so will the tension in the torso, requiring he let go with the support hand to keep the muzzle on target. One handed shooting. 

2). The Use Of Back-up Guns As An Immediate Action Response 

Many students are carrying secondary weapons as a true non-diagnostic immediate action response for a malfunctioning gun. You can certainly discard the malfunctioned gun and shoot the BUG (back up gun) two-handed, but perhaps in a dynamic environment it may be a better choice to transition the jammed up gun to one hand, and draw the BUG one handed. 

3). Tactical Necessity in Moving/Clearing Operations 

While not everyone will need to clear a house, the possibility of having to move tactically through a hostile environment may easily occur. Moving (or its tactical relative, clearing) are all based on the study of cornering. There are right side corners and left side corners. It may be a wise option in many cases to transition the pistol to the opposite hand to carefully move through an uncomfortable corner such as a right handed shooter clearing a left handed corner. 

4). Gunfights Are Close  

This may require firing from a weapon retention position, or in some cases, shooting at the close range envelop when the other hand is occupied in striking/deflecting a blow, responding from seated positions as in a vehicle, and of course, in the event you are injured. 

5). Injured Shooter 

Finally, as we mentioned earlier, there are situations when you may be injured and unable to maintain a two-handed hold due to injury. The idea that you will be shot in any gunfight is silly. However, there is always a possibility that you may be shot. But understand that nearly 80% of those shot with handguns survive, so even if youve been hit, keep fighting. Cultivate a spirit of never giving in. While you still have blood in your veins and breath in your lungs, keep fighting. 

Ambidextrous shooting skill is one of those things we were led to believe was impossible or untrainable. Not true my friends. It not only possible, but as we discussed, necessary for a complete education of the gunfighter. Like any other martial skill, all it takes is judicious practice. Practice not only shooting one-handed, but also with the support (weak) hand, and with the support side two-handed grip. And get good at transferring the gun from one hand to the next as needed. Thus you can shoot right one-handed or left one-handed, and right two-handed or left two-handed. There is some skill transfer to the other side, but go slow at first until the other side catches up. Pay particular attention to trigger finger placement (on trigger or on index point). The strong side is generally well-trained in terms of trigger finger placement. Not so with the left so be careful. 

One Handed Drawing 

Drawing one handed, strong side is no big deal, but it makes for a slightly different draw stroke. Train it, because at bad breath range, you may need it. If you are wounded, you might experience dropping the weapon as you draw, so practice picking it up and fighting. Also, remember the dynamics of the gunfighting (for some of you look at Force On Force). Will you have the time, or the ability to stand still and reach around the back for the gun as Mongo is closing in with his Bowie knife? I'm not saying yes or no, but rather simply offering it up for discussion.

Support side drawing with an open ended time frame while stationary on the range is one thing. Support side draw from under real concealment, on the move, under fire? Different thing altogether.

One Handed Gun Manipulations 

Other things to study are keeping the gun loaded and fixing any malfunctions that come up. The only time you would ever need to do this is if you are wounded. All situations where the gun fails to fire (for any reason) are initially responded to with a Knee/Rack/Point, reminiscent of the tap/rack. That is you knee the magazine bottom, hook the rear sight on your belt (or holster, or cover, or) rack the slide, and point in. As you are conducting this maneuver and moving, you are analyzing the gun. (Did the clearance fix it? Is it still out of battery? Can I see brass?). If the Knee/Rack/Point didnt fix it, you have either a Feedway Stoppage (Fail To Extract), or an Empty Gun. 

To keep the gun loaded you will do the reactive (empty gun) reload and the proactive (tactical) reload the same way. Keep it simple grasshopper. You are already wounded so why complicate matters. Secure the pistol in holster, waistband or under the arm  remove empty (or partially empty) magazine  replace with full magazine  rack the slide if needed by using the rear sight to hook onto your belt, holster or other item  keep fighting. 

Notice I didnt say to secure the pistol between the knees. I know all about cover, but its rarely available in a reactive gunfight. Even if it was, you will still need to get to it. Dont do anything that would compromise your mobility. Got a holster on? Stick the gun in the holster right way or reversed. No holster? Stick the gun in the waistband. Cant do that? Then put the gun in your armpit, muzzle rear. Adapt and overcome!

To clear the Feedway Stoppage/Failure To Extract, you will use the same procedure, but add a series of Racks, before reloading to clear out the chamber. 

Developing ambidextrous (or Bilateral) skill with your weapons is not an easy thing, but it is important. Historically, the best warriors were the ones who could fight with either side as the situation demanded. Davids Mighty Men, for example, could shoot arrows and sling stones with either the right or the left hand (1Ch 12:2). The day of being lop-sided gunmen is past. Get good with both hands, and you will have doubled your combat survivability. 
__________________

Gabe Suarez
Suarez International USA, Inc.
__________________
Gabe Suarez
Suarez International USA, Inc.
303 East Gurley Street, Suite 461
Prescott, Arizona 86301 USA 
Office 928-776-4492
Fax 928-776-8218
Mobile 928-308-1512
info@suarezinternational.com


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## dearnis.com (Dec 13, 2004)

On that note...  how many here shoot some percentage of their regular qualification courses using their non-dominant hand as primary??


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## Tgace (Dec 13, 2004)

Small percentage, and not as a dept. qual...just as familiarization. SWAT, yes...shield work necessitates it.


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## Cruentus (Dec 13, 2004)

Tgace said:
			
		

> Check this article on the "Tactical Reload"...opinions?
> 
> http://rrmemphis.com/op017.html
> 
> ...



This is a good article that might start a good discussion, Tom. Would you mind if I split this into a new thread?

Paul


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## Tgace (Dec 14, 2004)

Go for it..


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## Cruentus (Dec 14, 2004)

Tgace said:
			
		

> Go for it..



Cool....I need a few minutes while I figure it out though!


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## Cruentus (Dec 14, 2004)

Thread split here for tactical reload discussion:

http://www.martialtalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20049


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## dearnis.com (Dec 14, 2004)

> Small percentage, and not as a dept. qual...just as familiarization



Maybe two years ago we started requiring a non-dominant hand scored course at least once a year...oooo the outrage.  It has actually gone pretty well, times are slower, but scores are not that much lower.  The rest of the state has declined to include this but of lunacy in their programs though...

What was cool; they threw some of this at us as a "extra challenge" at Blackwater; interesting to see how many people had not done a lot of work with it- and this among a largely self-selected group of highly motivated people.


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## Tgace (Dec 14, 2004)

Stance:

When we talk about 'Stance', we usually are referring to a static position. One we would use on a shooting range. While this works shooting groups, shooting bullseye, etc. , it does not reflect the reality of handgun engagements.

The fundamentals:
1) Find the target
2) Get the gun to the target
3) Keep the gun aimed there until it fires. 

Easier said than done, but if you can do these three things in all situations, you will never miss. In order to do this you need what IPSC shooters call "Index and Mobility".

Index is your body position from the waist up, this is what aligns your gun to the target. Im using a Modern Isoceles example here...

1) Shoulders square to the target
2) Arms extended equally without locking, no push-pull here but rather push-push
3) Both hands grip the pistol as high as possible
4) Once position is assumed nothing from the hips up should move. 

The purpose of all this is to allow your body to naturally align the gun with the target. Sighting now is almost only used for confirmation except at longer distances. 

Mobility is from the hips down. Whether that means running to a position or shooting on the move. The legs keep you in motion, and set you up to shoot. Index does the shooting, mobility gets you there. Move only as fast as you can hit. Any movement is good, better to walk and hit than run and waste ammo.....

You want the upper body to remain relatively stationary, not rigid or locked you still want some flexibility in the arms to deal with recoil, but the lower body should be completely unlocked. Your knees, hips, etc. should be flexed. This allows your legs to turn your body to face targets, or move you out of a position as soon as the shooting is done. Also you must be loose when shooting on the move. Walking with stiff legs will cause your sights to bounce wildly. Your legs also keep you balanced when shooting. Foot position is irrelevant to your overall stance as long as you maintain balance.

Try to get out of the habit of shooting from a 'Stance', experiment with shooting from unusual positions. Feel how your body adapts to the shooting if your primary focus is on hitting the targets, not having a picture perfect stance as described in a book. Learn to do whatever it takes to: 

1) Find the target
2) Get the gun to the target
3) Keep the gun there until it fires


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## Tgace (Dec 14, 2004)

Correcting Trigger Slap:

Shooters moving from slowfire to rapid fire often move their trigger fingers all the way off the trigger between shots. This has a couple of negative effects. First, it takes time. Second, it leads to inaccuracy because the tendency is to slap the trigger on the second and subsequent shots.

To fix this, follow through on your shots with your trigger finger. Hold the trigger back all the way through recoil. When the sights are again aligned slowly release the trigger until the link re-engages. Then press to make the next shot. 

Once you know how far to release the trigger of your gun, both accuracy and speed improve.


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## dearnis.com (Dec 14, 2004)

Very good comments on trigger slap.


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## Tgace (Dec 15, 2004)

The 360 Sacn:

After you've shot the BG to the ground. Scan 360 degrees (not standing on the range) on the move to some cover. The scan is not done until after the original BG is down. Engage any threat that pops up on your way to cover. Once behind cover assess if you need to move again and/or if the BG is maneuvering on you. Reload as necessary and call for help if possible (got that cell phone?).


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## dearnis.com (Dec 15, 2004)

> (got that cell phone?)



Things without which you have no business carrying a defensive firearm (off duty cop or private citizen.
1) Proper ID (carry permit and/or agency ID in addition to drivers license)
2) Small flashlight
3) Cell phone
4) Name and # of attorney

I could add more, but this is a minimum.


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## Tgace (Dec 16, 2004)

Mental Conditioning for Combat...if you read anything in this thread, read this.

http://www.kc0iqx.com/mental_conditioning.htm


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## Tgace (Jun 26, 2005)

Had a few vid clips I was puting together for training...

Instead of wasting bandwidth on a new thread, I thought Id just continue this one.

The first clip is the standard malfunction drill...tap..rack...continue.

The second one is a Type III stoppage drill (feedway failure) the slide is already locked back here simulating a stoppage. In a real stoppage you would have to lock it back first. I only have one training mag so I hold onto it here. In reality I would ditch the bad one and put in a fresh one, but this lets me just do continuous drill without having to pick up mags every time.


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## Grape Ape (Jun 28, 2005)

dearnis.com said:
			
		

> Things without which you have no business carrying a defensive firearm (off duty cop or private citizen.
> 1) Proper ID (carry permit and/or agency ID in addition to drivers license)
> 2) Small flashlight
> 3) Cell phone
> ...


 [font=&quot]
 I'd like to add one more:
 5) a less lethal alternative (pepper spray, kubotan, stun gun, whatever) 

 Because I'd like to give myself ever opportunity to avoid a wrongful death suit and if I fail to avoid it, I'd like to make it hard for the plaintiff to argue that I was looking shoot someone.[/font]


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