# How to improving bridging the gap?



## JPR (Jan 24, 2005)

Entering, or bridging the gap can be one of the most difficult things in sparring.  What strategies / tactics do you use to bridge the gap (close from kicking to punching range)?  What drills do you use to hone these skills?

  JPR


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## Autocrat (Jan 24, 2005)

Well, there are tons of different ways to do it.... ranging from the blindingly simple to the amazingly complex!

Still, my prefered methods are the simple step, the shuffle, kick and land in close, the feint kick and step in, the step round and punch at an angle.... all should be performed slowly at first so as to enable you to gauge the distance and program your body to these moves... then step up the pace whilst on a bag - remember to practice the foot work with both attacks and blocks!

Good luck!


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## Adept (Jan 25, 2005)

Put simply, I find misleading my opponent to be the most effective. Convince them I am withdrawing, and as they folow up, attack into them. Or simply feint low and attack high. Make use of timing, distance and feints.

 Alternatively, the good old bull rush will work for some people against some opponents.


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## achilles (Jan 25, 2005)

One good way to close the gap is to use PIA.  This often helps by giving you cover fire to move past their kicking and punching barrier, although it isn't fool proof.  The classic fake high, kick low and finger jab is a good start.  Superior footwork is another good way to close the gap and score.  If  you have a really good lunge, you may not have to use quite so much deception which can put you at risk to be stop hit.  You can also close the gap defensively by using sticky hands or by simply counter fighting.  You can also use a variety of footwork tricks such as the draw step stealing a step or broken rhythm.  The draw step was kind of mentioned earlier in which you begin by retreating, inducing your opponent to advance, and then all of the sudden shift to a lunge (or penetration step for wrestling).  The steal a step is similar but starts by you moving forward.  You start a ratio of steping with your opponent such as you advance once and he is induced to retreat once.  Once he is motor set, advance and lunge.  It goes from 1:1 to 2:1 and the distance his tries to maintain is broken.  Broken rhythm is similar to the latter two, but it is completely random.  Basically it means going when it is not your turn and being unpredictable.
Other tactics include cutting off the ring (although other physical barriers will do), evasive stepping (like the triangular steps in Kali) and a few tricks I keep for myself and my students.


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## Sam (Jan 25, 2005)

wow - I was scrolling through the different boards, and this thread was the most recently replied to, so it was up on the main page - suffice it to say, I was very surprised.

We discuss bridging the gap often in sparring in kenpo. I guess it makes sense that you wanna get closer when sparring, no matter what the MA. My fave. way of bridging the gap is probably Independant Motion Extended Commitment punch - that is, your hand moves first with no give-aways of what your about to do (very hard, much practice is needed) followed by your back foot moving foward farther than you front foot - your opponent may step back but since you have used 'extended comitment', with your what was back foot in front of your front foot, unless they step backward VERY far (they won't) you can hit them.

I dont even know if any of that exists or is legal in JKD, buts that how this Kenpo girl does it.


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## AC_Pilot (Jan 25, 2005)

Samantha,

Everything that works is used in JKD  It's real world self defense including weapons. There are no belts and no rules as far as techniques. No sport competitions. The thing about JKD is when one gets _advanced_ that JKD person can get *into* and *out* of the 4 different ranges:

Kicking

Punching

trapping

Grappling

Certainly getting from kicking into punching range, then to trapping range are the hardest parts.. it's of course footwork, and there are several ways to get there.. getting from punching to trapping range is usually accomplished by getting a "destruction" which means a severe injury inflicted on a vital part of the opponent's anatomy, disabling them in some way and then taking advantage to "enter" to where we usually want to be: Trapping range. We want to get there because this is where we can excel and use some of our most dangerous weapons.


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## Sam (Jan 25, 2005)

no belts? 


No rules?

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!

*head explodes*


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## jfarnsworth (Jan 25, 2005)

Samantha said:
			
		

> We discuss bridging the gap often in sparring in kenpo. I guess it makes sense that you wanna get closer when sparring, no matter what the MA. My fave. way of bridging the gap is probably Independant Motion Extended Commitment punch - that is, your hand moves first with no give-aways of what your about to do (very hard, much practice is needed) followed by your back foot moving foward farther than you front foot - your opponent may step back but since you have used 'extended comitment', with your what was back foot in front of your front foot, unless they step backward VERY far (they won't) you can hit them.


Just make sure you don't expose your centerline to your opponent.


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## Sam (Jan 25, 2005)

well, its a jamming technique - you do it to someone who's trying to puch YOU - you can block that with one hand and hit them with the other


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## jfarnsworth (Jan 25, 2005)

Fair enough. I read it slightly differently. That's the problem in written text rather than being in the same room. :idunno:


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## Corporal Hicks (Jan 26, 2005)

Samantha said:
			
		

> no belts?
> 
> 
> No rules?
> ...


I.e. Perfect. Thats why I'm going to do it. Purely for street combat!

Regards


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## Sam (Jan 26, 2005)

but! but!

how do you spar?
there's no way to diferentiate skill level!

you wouldnt put an orange belt against a black belt, but thats what your doing because the person that walks in your studio is the same rank as the instructor!

ahhh 

does...not....compute....


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## MJS (Jan 26, 2005)

Samantha said:
			
		

> but! but!
> 
> how do you spar?
> there's no way to diferentiate skill level!
> ...



Samantha-

Check your private messages.  I sent you some info. on JKD that might help give you a better understanding of this art.

Mike


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## kroh (Jan 26, 2005)

*off topic* 

There are no ranks in JKD just like the martial arts that a lot of us do use to have no rank structure.  The ranking system is a relatively new invention ( compared to martial arts history in general).  And you mentioned how do you have people fighting if you don't know their rank.  Boxing doesn't have rank (you can be ranked but there is no "skill levels" like many of the Japanese arts) and neither does wrestling.  Everyone plays with everyone.  This is good as the new guys learn from the old and the old guys can learn from the new ( I find that when fighting a new person and their methods are wild...it makes thing difficult for me to anticipate the path and purpose of some of the things they are doing).

*Back on topic* 

JKD uses a lot of methods to bridge the gap, just like all the great posts above suggested.  The thing to remember is to try out different things so that you can see what works for you.  Every opponent will be different so  keep in mind to always keep them guessing.  Footwork and sneakyness goes a long way (nothing like a pitcher of beer in the face to allow some one to bridge the distance).

regards, 
Walt


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## Blindside (Jan 26, 2005)

> but! but!how do you spar?
> there's no way to diferentiate skill level!
> 
> you wouldnt put an orange belt against a black belt, but thats what your doing because the person that walks in your studio is the same rank as the instructor!



Samantha, it isn't an art designed for sport which is the only time you need to differentiate between beginner and advanced and every gradient in between.  I'm a black belt (presumably that means I know what I'm doing) and I spar orange, yellow, and white belts all the time.  But when I do the point isn't for me to get a KO, but rather to push the person I'm sparring with by going slightly above their level.  

In kenpo the belts are a training guide to mark waypoints in training progression, it is useful for both the teachers and students, but not all arts do this, in fact the belts are a fairly new phenomenon in karate/judo/whatever.  In most historical arts you were either proficient or you weren't, how not-proficient you were didn't really matter.  

Lamont


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## kroh (Jan 26, 2005)

Blindside...

Your sig is great!

Regards, 
Walt


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## MJS (Jan 26, 2005)

Blindside said:
			
		

> Samantha, it isn't an art designed for sport which is the only time you need to differentiate between beginner and advanced and every gradient in between.  I'm a black belt (presumably that means I know what I'm doing) and I spar orange, yellow, and white belts all the time.  But when I do the point isn't for me to get a KO, but rather to push the person I'm sparring with by going slightly above their level.



Well said! :asian:   Not only is it good for the lower belts to spar with the Black Belts for the reasons that you said, but it also breaks up the routine for the BB's.  Sparring with a lower belt can certainly be a challenge because they may not have the control that an upper rank would.  Being unpredictable will definately keep you on your toes! :ultracool 

Mike


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## AC_Pilot (Jan 26, 2005)

Samantha,

The advanced and truly profecient JKD type person has developed their *sensitivity*. This is not touchy-feely PC sensitivity, but _analytical conceptual understanding of the opponent's intentions/abilities/actions, without having to stop to think. _This must be developed over time for maximum effectiveness, even if you're a natural, as I was. I learned to fight early because I was always picked on by bullies. I was the good looking, quiet, intellectual type and the bullies were always jealous of me. I learned to counter them with JKD type interceptions and groundfighting way before Bruce Lee ever made a MA movie. I was born in 1960, had my first schoolyard fight at 8, (won by jabbing him about 30 times till he fell, pressing him back at least 50 feet, let's just say he challenged me over a girl we both liked and would *not *go away) I did not see a Bruce Lee movie until I was in my 20's. I was hooked from the first Bruce Lee fight I saw, but was not sure he was for real until I began training in JKD in the 1990s. He _*was*_ for real!

So, as far as the sparring issue, as was said above, the advanced and more capable fighters hold way back when sparring with newbies. In fact the newbies are actually *more* dangerous when sparring than a cool headed seasoned JKD person. Newbies and _some_ people _forever_ lack self control and the grace to spar without hurting their partner. This is why I will not spar with beginners. I will train with, hold pads, and _very light_ spar with them, and after say 6 months to a year of analyzing them, light-medium spar within a framework of rules. Such as no leg strikes, full power Savate kicks, or leg sweeps. The sparring rules would depend on who it was, I know a few people I will spar with, without rules. I trust their proven skills and attitude. I would have to carefully judge a person suitable to spar with first. JKD is a very dangerous fighting concept and can take an attacker out in _less_ than 1 second, really. It's _explosive_, _intercepting_ aspects can make a "fight" very short. I don't need more injuries.. ask me why I am leery of this :asian: 

So the rules for sparring depends on each person. There are no set rules for sparring in the "art" but common sense prevails where AC trains. I need to keep my bodily integrity !

For a *few* people I sparred with in the past, here's my message :whip:


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## Sam (Jan 26, 2005)

AC_Pilot said:
			
		

> <snip>
> even if you're a natural, as I was.
> <snip>
> I was the good looking, quiet, intellectual type and the bullies were always jealous of me.
> ...


and modest, too 
:bow:

hehe, but no, seriously, thanks - I think I understand better - sounds like a hard way to train


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## AC_Pilot (Jan 26, 2005)

If you think I'm sounding perfect you should see me "cook" (hint, have the fire extinguishers on hand) and if it were up to me to pay bills I would be in biiig trouble! :uhyeah:  

I'm sure my lady Susan could offer some other humbling afterthoughts if she were here :boing2:


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## AC_Pilot (Jan 26, 2005)

If you have not read this, maybe it can help explain JKD theories a bit better than poor old humble AC :uhyeah:  : http://www.icmaua.com/Journal2005.htm


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## Kembudo-Kai Kempoka (Jan 26, 2005)

JPR said:
			
		

> Entering, or bridging the gap can be one of the most difficult things in sparring. What strategies / tactics do you use to bridge the gap (close from kicking to punching range)? What drills do you use to hone these skills?
> 
> JPR


Run really fast in the direction of your opponent, and hope you don't get KO'd?


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## achilles (Jan 28, 2005)

Samantha,

In JKD we spar a lot. While the ultimate goal is to become proficient in street fighting (functionally speaking not philosophically speaking), the experience gained from safe, sportive training is invaluable. Two thirds of the core of Jeet Kune Do are western sports, namely boxing and fencing. JKD's training is athletic and a degree of sportive training is always present. What differentiate's the training methods from arts with a sportive goal, not just means, is that we factor in training that goes outside of the rules. For instance, sometimes we put on eye goggles and spar the finger jab (coincidentally this is a very athletic endeavor in that the speed and endurance are instrumental). Another example is how we spar. I spar with boxing gloves, a helmet, shinpads, etc. It looks like kickboxing, and for the most part that is accurate, but we also add in the tools that conventional kickboxing doesn't such as the shin/knee side kick, sometimes the headbutt, etc. This is where control and concern for safety come in. There are some tools that you just don't want to use at 100% intensity. I've done amateur boxing, so I'm not scared to mix things up, but I would not want someone to side kick my knee with 100%. Sparring in JKD reflects JKD's value of understanding both the how and the why and adapting accordingly. 

As far as rank goes, some instructors, myself included, have implemented a rank structure for pedagogical purposes. We don't line up according to rank or make a big deal out of it, but it is a way to keep lessons orderly and efficient not to mention a good check on the instructor to teach the full curriculum and not just his personal likes. I may not like the twist kick, but through the structure of the program I teach my students are sure to be exposed to it and they can decide whether they like it or not. In regards to rank and sparring, I think that if it is the orange belts first time sparring he is probably better off with a responsible black belt than with someone of a closer rank. If the black belt isn't full of himself and can avoid exploiting his junior classmate, his higher skill level and more refined sense of timing (which we can only hope he has with such a rank, although it is NOT guaranteed) will help him/her not injure the white belt and avoid injury from a white belt's potentially spartic movements. Furthermore, the black belt will have experienced what it was like to be the low man on the totem pole and hopefully will be able to challenge the white belt without shutting him down and exploiting the situation.


back on topic...

Another way to bridge the gap that I like is to double up on your steps (related to the steal a step in some people's definitions).  The most clear example I can think of is the advance-lunge, which is done in one motion.  Just like combination punching, combination footwork should be considered one unit with multiple elements.  Rhythmically it shouldn't be advance-pause-lunge, but as soon as the advance is completed the lunge should begin.  It is an exercise in fluid speed.


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## Mr_Scissors (Feb 11, 2005)

Something sifu Lee often wrote about was creating a false sense of distance and then exploiting that. For example making use of your lunging tools but holding back sligtly on the distance that you lunge out to. After creating a sense of being just short of contact on your lunge, you explode the whole way, generally using a punch that is thrown at a slower pace (breaking rhythym) than the punches that were used with the false-distance lunges. 

Often your foe will retreat and go to parry, but the parry will be off-pace because of the changed tempo of the punch (the parry lands too fast in this timing example). At the same time the retreat step will not be long enough because of the false sense of distance. 

Try it out, you might like it


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## CurtisB (Feb 13, 2005)

We use the curriculum that is used in the SBG as well as that used by JKDU.

The SBG has found over time and a lot of all out sparring (with body armor) that conventional trapping tends to break down. So in search for a better tool in that range they found that modified clenching from Greco-Roman works much better. When used with a modified boxing cover it makes bridging the gap much easier.


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## Flatlander (Feb 13, 2005)

CurtisB said:
			
		

> The SBG has found over time and a lot of all out sparring (with body armor) that conventional trapping tends to break down. So in search for a better tool in that range they found that modified clenching from Greco-Roman works much better. When used with a modified boxing cover it makes bridging the gap much easier.


I don't believe that it is fair to state that as an absolute.  Truly, trapping is effective, if used in the proper context.  Just as it would be incorrect to say that trapping ought be applied or attempted in all situations as a general strategy, so too would we be applying an incorrect generalization to assert that all circumstances call for a grapple.  For example, I don't think that when dealing with an edged weapon, clinching is going to be a successful strategy.  In that circumstance, I'd rather be knowing how to trap well.  Trapping won't ever be useful if people don't practice it.


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## CurtisB (Feb 14, 2005)

I can only go by my own experience and the experience of those who are much wiser than I. Burton Richardson who is famous for his trapping, is dropping it. His new curriculum is coming out some time in the next few months, and I don't think it will have any trapping at all. He says it is simple not realistic, and that there are much better things out there. It is because of his progressive philosophy, (which is the heart of JKD) that we have associated our selves with him as well as the SBG. There are other long time practitioners of JKD who are coming to the same conclusion. I personally think that in time this will be the norm. But all that being said I try not to argue a point. If you like trapping and can make it work under REAL pressure than more power to you brother, I personally will have to digress to those with much more wisdom and experience than I.

As for knife attack I would not clinch. Most knife defense and the philosophies behind them are a joke. Bottom line when a knife is involved you are probably going to get cut. The thing is, is not to get cut twice. This is the principals behind the S.T.A.B. program that the SBG and others are now using. It's all about reality not clinging to old principals that make us fill good about ourselves. One can not be loyal to a set curriculum of training. That is not realistic the law of nature is change and grow or die. But there again if you can make it work, Great.

PEACE

-Curtis


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## Mr_Scissors (Feb 14, 2005)

Joe Lewis, one of the more famous JKD practitioners agrees that trapping is pretty much useless, EXCEPT as a way to go from entry to Grappling as it is a good way to set up your Lock/Takedown/Throw/ or Choke. 

Personally i see most basic one-step traps (pak-sao, Lap-sao etc) as being quite useful but going into the double arm traps seem wasteful as a lock usually presents itself first. However when it's only a one-step trap one could argue that it's parrying not trapping :idunno:


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## Andrew Green (Feb 14, 2005)

Tuck your chin in and force it, remember you are a fighter in a fight and you are gonna get hit no matter what you do so you'd best make the best of it.

 Then if you don't get hit, Sweet!


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## achilles (Feb 15, 2005)

Of courser trappling doesn't work all the time.  The jab doesn't work all the time.  When you can't shoot in and take your opponent down, does that mean that wrestling doesn't work?  Of course not and it is obtuse to posit such a thing.  I think Burton Richardson is a really good martial artist and instructor, but I have been doing martial arts for a long time and I have learned a great deal from my own experiences.  I'm sure Burton offers good instruction, but, and I'm sure he agrees with this, he nor I are the final voice on JKD and combat.  I'm sure he is doing what he thinks is best just as I do what I think is best.  Each of us must work from our own experience, not simply accept the truth of others.  I use trapping in sparring when the opportunity presents itself.  When I was boxing, a lot of my opponents simply would not try and obstruct punches.  The better ones would evade and the worse would just eat a punch and send one back at you.  Never the less, I've used trapping on boxers and kick boxers against their parries and covers (sometimes just the "by-capture" method), and I value my own experience more than other persons' theories and experiences.


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## JKD_Silat (Mar 13, 2005)

achilles said:
			
		

> One good way to close the gap is to use PIA. This often helps by giving you cover fire to move past their kicking and punching barrier, although it isn't fool proof. The classic fake high, kick low and finger jab is a good start. Superior footwork is another good way to close the gap and score. If you have a really good lunge, you may not have to use quite so much deception which can put you at risk to be stop hit. You can also close the gap defensively by using sticky hands or by simply counter fighting. You can also use a variety of footwork tricks such as the draw step stealing a step or broken rhythm. The draw step was kind of mentioned earlier in which you begin by retreating, inducing your opponent to advance, and then all of the sudden shift to a lunge (or penetration step for wrestling). The steal a step is similar but starts by you moving forward. You start a ratio of steping with your opponent such as you advance once and he is induced to retreat once. Once he is motor set, advance and lunge. It goes from 1:1 to 2:1 and the distance his tries to maintain is broken. Broken rhythm is similar to the latter two, but it is completely random. Basically it means going when it is not your turn and being unpredictable.
> Other tactics include cutting off the ring (although other physical barriers will do), evasive stepping (like the triangular steps in Kali) and a few tricks I keep for myself and my students.


 Thank you for that! Great ideas for my next kickboxing fight! I used the simple foot obstruction in my last fight, and was able to bridge the gap over, and over at will. My teacher saw the video tape of the fight, and thought it was kinda cool that I was so successful with it even after the 8'th time. I found that when fighting, gross motor skills like that work best for me.


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## JKogas (Mar 14, 2005)

Flatlander said:
			
		

> I don't believe that it is fair to state that as an absolute. Truly, trapping is effective, if used in the proper context. Just as it would be incorrect to say that trapping ought be applied or attempted in all situations as a general strategy, so too would we be applying an incorrect generalization to assert that all circumstances call for a grapple.


What exactly IS 'trapping'? If it is merely an imobilization attack, then sure, trapping works and works well - depending on how it's used. 

Are we using double pak sao or an underhook and bicep control? I've done both. I can (speaking only for myself) state that the wrestling immobilizations work tremendously better than the wing chun immobilizations. 



			
				Flatlander said:
			
		

> For example, I don't think that when dealing with an edged weapon, clinching is going to be a successful strategy. In that circumstance, I'd rather be knowing how to trap well. Trapping won't ever be useful if people don't practice it. [/b]


Isn't clinching just another form of trapping, or, not? 

I don't think I want to be "trapping" in the classical sense, ANY edged weapon. In fact, I don't want to be in the same vicinity. However if pressed, the clinching performed against edged weapons (Karl Tanswell's STAB, which is based upon the 2-on-1) seems to work just fine and is in my opinion, much higher percentage. In the end, it all comes down to what the individual can "DO". 

As long as it's pressured tested and it works for you, it doesn't really matter what I or anyone else thinks.


-John


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## Flatlander (Mar 15, 2005)

JKogas said:
			
		

> What exactly IS 'trapping'? If it is merely an imobilization attack, then sure, trapping works and works well - depending on how it's used. <snip>
> Isn't clinching just another form of trapping, or, not?


Good question. I have begun a discussion on specifically that right here.



> I don't think I want to be "trapping" in the classical sense, ANY edged weapon.


 What appeals to me about what you refer to as "classical" trappping is the non-committment inherent in the check, as opposed to the restrictiveness of a clinch or grab. It allows the checking appendage the freedom to move about and find holes. I have spent a lot of time working on my "stickyness", which I have found works very well as a complement to the trap in terms of allowing me the freedom of movement, yet still maintaining a measure of control. Having worked the blade extensively (as a fraction of my overall training), I have come to understand that a fixed position; i.e. a grasping hand; makes for a good target for that blade, and is easily reversed. Due to this, my preference is to remain mobile and fluid if dealing with an edged weapon. 

Of course, the caveat must be added that I haven't had to do any of this live, so, who knows what happens then.


> As long as it's pressured tested and it works for you, it doesn't really matter what I or anyone else thinks.


This is entirely true. :asian:


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## NotQuiteDead (Apr 14, 2005)

> As for knife attack I would not clinch. Most knife defense and the philosophies behind them are a joke. Bottom line when a knife is involved you are probably going to get cut. The thing is, is not to get cut twice. This is the principals behind the S.T.A.B. program that the SBG and others are now using.


 I'm just curious, why don't you consider the 2-on-1 (from the S.T.A.B. clip I've seen it looks like it is common in that program) a 'clinch'? It's controlling an area of the opponent's body while standing, just like like an under hook, over hook, etc.


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## achilles (Apr 16, 2005)

I agree with the other posts that trapping and clinching are really one in the same.  Frequently tools referred to as trapping tools involve less commitment (with checking further on the spectrum), but it all goes back to what Bruce Lee called immobilization attack.  The troubles lie in our mental constructs.  What is a clinch to one person is a trap to another and a complete waste of time to some.  I think a better way to spend our time is to research for our own unique experience rather than getting into semantic arguments.

As far as the knife goes, I believe Lameco Escrima uses the two on one, but they call it sinigro I believe (not being a Lameco man myself I am not saying this with 100% confidence).  It is extremely useful to me when doing empty hand vs. knife sparring and flows well from the Pekiti Tirsia or Illustrisimo tapping methods.  It offers a good amount of control,  but is easy to bail on if need be.

Back to closing the gap, the stutter step is a good way to close the gap against a wary opponent.  Take a small step that elicits a reaction, then follow behind that reaction.  Also, if someone won't let you close the gap, you might try backing up yourself and using ABD.


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## JKogas (Apr 17, 2005)

achilles said:
			
		

> Back to closing the gap, the stutter step is a good way to close the gap against a wary opponent. Take a small step that elicits a reaction, then follow behind that reaction. Also, if someone won't let you close the gap, you might try backing up yourself and using ABD.


Good thing (getting back on topic)....


Anyone use the elbow destruction to move in behind?  Man that works like gang busters for me.  I've been using that for years against boxers with a high degree of success.  Timing is important (as it is with everything) for that to work, but if someone is really trying to hit you, they're going to be moving in (if you're setting up just out of range) to hit you.  Cut that movement off by moving into him with the spike up and suddenly you're inside, in clinching range.  Now tie up control.


-John


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