# Affordable Combat Knifes...



## Spookey (Feb 11, 2005)

Dear All,

 I am seeking your suggestions for a highly affordable Combat knife. Let me clarify...Affordable for me is under $50.00. Combat knife to me is a solid fixed blade knife that is short enough to move quickly and long enought o cause internal damage in combat.

Please offer an links or photos. I am looking for manufacturer, design, and supplier!

THanks,
Spookey


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## Cruentus (Feb 11, 2005)

Spookey said:
			
		

> Dear All,
> 
> I am seeking your suggestions for a highly affordable Combat knife. Let me clarify...Affordable for me is under $50.00. Combat knife to me is a solid fixed blade knife that is short enough to move quickly and long enought o cause internal damage in combat.
> 
> ...



Why don't you search through the links in the sticky of knife brands, find something you like, and then ask what we might think about it?

That might help us narrow it down for you...

That said I'd recommend Cold Steel. Peacekeeper for a dagger design, or the 38UWC UWK.

Here's a link to a vendor with the correct page: http://www.knifeoutlet.com/shop/10Browse.asp?Category=Cold Steel Knives&src=OVT

Paul


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## arnisandyz (Feb 11, 2005)

kaBar (or any of the other "Marine" varients) is a proven design an is under $50

Becker Knife & Tool has the BK7 or BK10 under $50

I also like the BK1, Ist a BIG knife 15" overall thats more like a small bolo or golok (but sells over your price range for $100)


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## Cruentus (Feb 11, 2005)

arnisandyz said:
			
		

> kaBar (or any of the other "Marine" varients) is a proven design an is under $50
> 
> Becker Knife & Tool has the BK7 or BK10 under $50
> 
> I also like the BK1, Ist a BIG knife 15" overall thats more like a small bolo or golok (but sells over your price range for $100)



I would have recommended the classic WWII kabar, but I thought it was going for about $70 now?

THose are good suggestions though...

Paul


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## MA-Caver (Feb 11, 2005)

Spookey said:
			
		

> Dear All,
> 
> I am seeking your suggestions for a highly affordable Combat knife. Let me clarify...Affordable for me is under $50.00. Combat knife to me is a solid fixed blade knife that is short enough to move quickly and long enought o cause internal damage in combat.
> 
> ...


Check out Sharp Phil's website (The Martialist ) as he's our resident knife guru/freak. He would have some good suggestions for you. 

YO! Phil... you out there man? There's a guy to see you about a knife!


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## arnisandyz (Feb 14, 2005)

Hey Paul,

You can find deals on kbars for under 50.  You can even get one with kydex sheath for not much more.

here are a couple sites

http://www.knifeoutlet.com/catalog/Kabar_Knives/KABCOMM.htm
http://www.1sks.com/store/kabar-standard-usmc-fighting-utility-knives.html
http://www.eabco.com/KA-BAR.html


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## Cruentus (Feb 14, 2005)

arnisandyz said:
			
		

> Hey Paul,
> 
> You can find deals on kbars for under 50.  You can even get one with kydex sheath for not much more.
> 
> ...



Thanks Andy! I think that my Kabar costed the same about 10 years ago, so I am pleasantly surprised to see that they haven't gone up in price like I thought they had.

For a first combat knife, the regular ol' issue Marine Kabar is definatily the way to go. I second Andy's recommendation!   

Thanks again!

Paul


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## James Kovacich (Feb 15, 2005)

I have this one, the M1-03K.
http://www.crkt.com/litem1.html

I bought for way less through a military contact. That is something to consider too. My source bought a box of those for $28 each and gave us the same price.


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## Cruentus (Feb 15, 2005)

akja said:
			
		

> I have this one, the M1-03K.
> http://www.crkt.com/litem1.html
> 
> I bought for way less through a military contact. That is something to consider too. My source bought a box of those for $28 each and gave us the same price.



The Lightfoot is good, but I thought he was looking for fixed blade?


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## KenpoTex (Feb 16, 2005)

Check your local Wal-mart or sporting goods store.  You can find a lot of great knives that will suit your purposes.  Some that come to mind are the  Buck "Special" hunting knives: bowie style clip-point blade, about 6" if I remember correctly.  Just because it's not _called_ a tactical knife or advertised as the "prefered weapon of the SEALS" doesn't mean it won't work.  I'm not saying that there's anything wrong with the "operator" type knives, just that a knife's a knife (for the most part ).


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## TonyM. (Feb 16, 2005)

When I served in the Rangers more of us carried Buck specials than any other knife. The kabar was next followed by the Randall bowie. I carried a Buck general. For most people the Special was easier to handle with the shorter blade. Don't carry more knife than you can comforably handle is a good rule.


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## psi_radar (Feb 16, 2005)

I've got an M3 that I like a lot. You can find them here:

http://www.uswings.com/knives.asp

Not crazy about the sheath they offer with the knife but you could find other sheaths that could fit easily enough. Though I haven't bought any products from this specific vendor. I noticed the MkIII while looking for the M3. Don't have one but looks like an interesting knife.


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## James Kovacich (Feb 16, 2005)

Tulisan said:
			
		

> I thought he was looking for fixed blade?


You're right. 
I somehow missed that part.

I do like a knife that is not big and that is my number 1 requirement besides being razor sharp. :uhyeah:


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## arnisandyz (Feb 16, 2005)

Another great combat knife is the Gerber Mark II (now out of production).  People that know their value are selling them for more than what they paid, but you might get lucky and come across one at a garage sale or flea market or something.  My cousin has had one since the mid 80's when we were kids, its a nice knife. I'll have to see if he's willing to part with it!


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## arnisandyz (Feb 16, 2005)

Kudos to the poster who defined what HE thinks a combat knife is. The definition can be pretty much in the air.  People that carry "combat folders" consider them to be combat knives for a new generation.  The description that Spookey gave is a more "traditional" definition.  If you compare some of the more well known (sucessful) combat knives and look at thier similarities they fit his description.  KaBar, S-F commando, Gerber MKII, although different, are all fixed blade and are around 11"-12" overall in length (blade is long enough to penetrate internals).

I found a good article online in regards to this topic (keep in mind this is just one person's opinion):

Combat Knives By Allen Elishewitz
Throughout history combat has taken troops into different environments like desert, jungle and even urban warfare. There are certain characteristics a knife must possess for different warfare conditions. In my opinion, I consider a fixed blade to be the primary cutting tool of a basic soldier. The problem with any type of mechanical knife is that the chances of something going wrong are greater. My experiences as a team leader in a Recon unit gave me the insights of what a real combat knife should possess. The inherent properties that determine a combat knife are: blade,
guard, handle and sheath. In combat, a knife's main purpose is a tool, secondarily a weapon.

Blade
A combat knife's blade should not be so small that it cannot be used as a tool. But on the other hand, it should not be so long that it gets in the way. A good length for a blade is from 5½ to 7½ inches. The best thickness for the blade is 3/16" but if the individual does not mind the extra
weight 1/4" is also good. The finish is very important it must not reflect light in a combat situation. Bead blasting or a dark satin finish is the best way to subdue a blade. However, you can use PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition), bluing, Parkerizing, or any darkening method to cover the glare. It is very important to have a single edged blade for combat. You loose strength and the ability to use it as a tool if the blade is double edged. Serrations are an excellent addition on a combat knife,
however saw blades will lessen the necessary characteristics for use as a tool. The weight of the blade can make some work easier, but proper cutting technique can achieve the same amount of work with a thinner, smaller knife. For example instead of hacking at a piece of wood with a big
knife, one can achieve the same task with a smaller knife using a chisel cutting technique. When patrolling, you might consider carrying a sterile knife, this means the knife has no markings. If the knife is lost in combat, the enemy cannot tell who or what unit is in the area.

Guard
The best material for combat guards is stainless steel because it is strong. The guard can also be incorporated as an intrical part of the handle material. Like the blade, the guard must not reflect any light. The guard even more so because the majority of the time the knife will be
sheathed and the sheath will not cover the guard. Bead blasting or some kind of coating on the guard will eliminate that problem. Whether you have a bolster or a slip over guard they both must be soldered or epoxied. Both methods not only secure the guard but most importantly protect the
tang from moisture. Inadequate protection can lead to rusting in joints, which will weaken the knife at its most critical location. A full double guard is impractical because it will get in the way and add extra weight to the knife. A more sensible guard style would be single or one and a half.
A single guard allows you to draw the knife from the sheath with limited possibility of snagging. If you find it necessary to have a top guard, go with half a guard. The top guard is half the length of the bottom guard. This gives you added protection and leverage when using the knife.

Handle
The handle material must not absorb any kind of liquid nor crack or shrink. The handle should be able to absorb continuous vibrations and shocks from chopping or cutting. The ideal handle materials for combat knives are G-10 or linen Micarta. A good dark color and nonreflective surface is the best finish for a combat knife. Make sure the knife fits snugly in your hand
and does not slip when wet. If the handle is too short, your hand will feel cramped and you could not use the pommel as a hammer. The handle should be long enough that you can grip it in several different positions when necessary. On a full tang knife, make sure the maker uses
screws and bolts or no less than five pins to attach the handle onto the tang. Personally I prefer a hidden tang knife for a combat situation because the tang is completely protected within the handle and the handle absorbs more shocks than a full tang knife. A thong hole is another good idea, it allows you to attach a cord and tie it to your belt. This will ensure against losing it in the brush. Round off all the corners on the handle to prevent the knife from feeling uncomfortable after a long period of use.

Sheath
The sheath should be attached to your body in a way that it does not produce any sound during movement. At the same time, it should not obstruct your physical movement. The sheath must not absorb moisture, crack, dry rot or tear. It must not reflect light or make a sound when
drawing the knife. The two best materials for combat sheaths are Kydex and nylon. Both are extremely durable and will not rust the blade. The ideal combination is a nylon sheath with a Kydex insert, this blends the best of both worlds. Also, adding two securing devices will allow you to be airborne and water qualified. Do not forget to add a drain hole in your sheath, which will help keep the inside clean and dry.


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## K Williams (Feb 18, 2005)

KA-BAR makes a lot of USMC Fighting/Utility models now. The original WW2 design is the #1217. If you want to spend more, there are models that are made with stainless steel(the Next Generation), D2 steel(the D2 Extreme), serrations, rubber grips, etc.


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## Liam_G (Feb 22, 2005)

Here is one of my new favorites from Benchmade.  Small, thin fixed blade, only $40.00 retail, and a very nice handle and blade design for defense, in my opinion:

http://www.benchmade.com/products/product_detail.aspx?model=10510

Respectfully,
Liam


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