# Tempering Rattan



## silatman (Mar 3, 2006)

I have just broken my sticks and after reading the Best Sticks thread want to have a go at tempering.
The sticks that I had were about 1inch thick with 2 nodes per stick and they still had there skins on.
They were a plain stick with no burns or patterns and I'm wondering now whether they were a good stick to start with.
Can anyone tell me how I go about tempering my sticks, what sort of flame, how close to it etc, any and all information will be appreciated, and what about after care, I didn't even think of oiling rattan even though I oil my bo religiously.
I'm just going to cut off the dead section of the sticks so I'm going to get 2 goes at this, hopefully I will get some sort of good result before I buy anymore.


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## ryangruhn (Mar 5, 2006)

I don't have time to do it right now but last time I Googled "rattan stick treating" and other such terms I came up with some good results.  I personally leave rattan as natural as possible but have also had luck with baking them in the oven, gas burners, etc.


Gruhn


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## Bob Hubbard (May 7, 2006)

Found this:
========
 "Bamboo Preservation Compendium" by Dr. Walter Liese and Dr. Satish Kumar
Sources: See below
----------------------------------------------------
"Bamboo Preservation Compendium" by Dr. Walter Liese and Dr. Satish Kumar

Book summary description by Gerald Morris, ABS/LGCC
(originally printed in the Louisiana Gulf Coast Newsletter)

The book has 231 pages with numerous color photographs describing techniques for preserving bamboo material used in construction projects.

Chapter 1 describes the anatomical characteristics of bamboo and the authors discuss moisture content and drying procedures.

Chapter 2 briefly discusses the natural durability of bamboo material.

Chapter 3 describes the factors reducing the quality such as cracks, splits, fungi, mold, decay and the dreaded powder-post beetles as well as other insects.

Chapter 4 presents non-chemical protection measures, such as proper storage, traditional methods of culm curing such as boiling, smoking, lime plastering, heat treatment and so on.
Special construction methods are described where much damage can be avoided by using the described approaches.

Chapter 5 presents the conditions for chemical treatment. The treatment methods need to consider the bamboo tissue or anatomical structure as well as the moisture content.

Chapter 6 gets at the essence of the subject in that it describes the
preservatives for bamboo to prevent decay and insect infestations. Some of these chemicals are hazardous and are no longer used in the U. S.
For example, the excellent wood preservative Copper-Chrome-Arsenic compound or CCA that has been used for so many years in the U. S to yield the so-called "treated lumber&#8217; is no longer being used as of December 31, 2003 and current stocks are being depleted. While the CCA treated wood had excellent resistance to decay and insects, studies had shown that this popular treated wood was being used in construction of playground equipment and dangerous arsenic compounds were leaching out of the wood into the soil.
Other natural compounds are mentioned as well as varnishes and paints.

Chapter 7 follows rather naturally in that it briefly describes some safety precautions in handling these dangerous chemicals.

Chapter 8 gives details on the chemical treatment methods such as
applications via brushing, spraying, dipping and so on.

Chapter 9 gives details for the treatment of semi-finished and finished products. Techniques include dyeing or coloring the bamboo as well as painting and applying clear finishes.

Chapter 10 addresses quality control and methods for determining the penetration of preservatives into the bamboo material. Methods for
determining the amount of arsenic, boron, copper and so on are described to measure the penetration of the solvent and the effectiveness of the
preservation.

Chapter 11 describes the environmental consequences of preserving bamboo using such harsh, dangerous chemicals.

Chapter 12 addresses the economic consequences of preserving the bamboo.

Chapter 13describes the procedures of dealing with infested bamboo. In particular it describes procedure for treating furniture and art objects that may be infected.

Appendix
A-1 gives a list of preservatives

A-2 preservative application methods and concentration retention levels

A-3 a glossary of terms.

The author&#8217;s summary description follows:

"Bamboo is an excellent material for countless applications ranging from
handicrafts to industrial products and construction.
One of the major obstacles to wider utilization is the biological degradation of raw bamboo and bamboo products that shortens the lifespan of its products.
Bamboo is susceptible to various microbe and pest attacks.
Like wood which is similarly susceptible, it is likewise possible to prevent
bamboo deterioration by use of appropriate and safe treatments.
However, information on various preservation procedures in use is hard to
come by. A knowledge gap exists, in spite of the knowledge being available.
This Bamboo Preservation Compendium brings together information on various technologies and procedures used for bamboo protection and preservation around the world, weaving in the knowledge of experience.
It outlines safety procedures, environmental issues and economics of
preservation, concisely yet comprehensively, in a manner that is field
applicable."
-----------------------------
Sources:
Inbar Publications

American Bamboo Society
- $22 per copy, plus $4 shipping for 1 to 3 books (1 copy-$26; 2 copies-$48; 3 copies-$70)

Send payment to:
Sue Turtle
ABS Treasurer
30 Myers Road
Summertown, TN 38483


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## Bob Hubbard (May 7, 2006)

Couple other links:

http://www.berkeley.edu/news/students/2003/borneo/info.shtml

Also, this seems to be more to the point: http://www.stickman-escrima.com/Products/Secrets of Rattan.htm


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## Jonathan Randall (May 7, 2006)

Bob Hubbard said:
			
		

> Couple other links:
> 
> http://www.berkeley.edu/news/students/2003/borneo/info.shtml
> 
> Also, this seems to be more to the point: http://www.stickman-escrima.com/Products/Secrets%20of%20Rattan.htm


 
Good info, Bob. Thanks.

BTW, from an ignorant "newbie" - why don't they just make synthetic sticks now that the technology is probably there to do so? Is the "feel" wrong or is it that there is not a large enough market for the R&D costs to be justified?


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## lhommedieu (May 8, 2006)

"Stickman's" technique for tempering rattan is the classic method - but it is interesting to note that he has become rather well known for his production of synthetic sticks that are practically indestructible. His comments with respect to rattan handling power shots "as well as can be expected" are a propos: the real advantages to using rattan are not that it _won't _break but that _when_ it breaks it shreds instead of splinters. Of course, you don't have that problem with synthetic sticks - except that you have to be careful about what _kind_ of synthetic stick you're using. Just going to the local hardware store and picking up a fiberglass rod, etc., is not a good idea. And yes, there are good synthetic sticks available - there is a new product advertised in this thread for example.

Personally I would rather buy cheap rattan from caning stores that sell rattan to people interested in making cane furniture. Just use 'em and toss 'em. For a descripton of training materials and sources, scroll about half-way down this page to where is says "Training Equipment for Filipino Martial Artists."

Best,

Steve Lamade


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## Jonathan Randall (May 10, 2006)

lhommedieu said:
			
		

> "Stickman's" technique for tempering rattan is the classic method - but it is interesting to note that he has become rather well known for his production of synthetic sticks that are practically indestructible. His comments with respect to rattan handling power shots "as well as can be expected" are a propos: the real advantages to using rattan are not that it _won't _break but that _when_ it breaks it shreds instead of splinters. Of course, you don't have that problem with synthetic sticks - except that you have to be careful about what _kind_ of synthetic stick you're using. Just going to the local hardware store and picking up a fiberglass rod, etc., is not a good idea. And yes, there are good synthetic sticks available - there is a new product advertised in this thread for example.
> 
> Personally I would rather buy cheap rattan from caning stores that sell rattan to people interested in making cane furniture. Just use 'em and toss 'em. For a descripton of training materials and sources, scroll about half-way down this page to where is says "Training Equipment for Filipino Martial Artists."
> 
> ...


 
Great information. Thanks!
artyon:


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## The Game (May 15, 2006)

Definately good stuff.


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