# Chipped/Splintered Wood Weapons?



## MLA9741 (Apr 17, 2012)

A pretty odd first question, but it applies to me and I'm sure it applies to many, many others. Due to medium-heavy combat training with escrima sticks and my bo staff, at times I notice little chips and splinters on them.  I usually just sand them down to fix it, but I wanted to know if any of you guys do it different. Thanks!

-Mark


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## Grenadier (Apr 17, 2012)

There are oils that you can use that will be able to fill in the pores, while also providing a hard coat to protect the weapon.  Also, you can sand the coating lightly once it's applied, and get a nice smooth finish.  

There are several oils that I can recommend.  

1) Polymerized tung oil - This is my favorite surfacing oil for wooden weapons.  It leaves a nice hard coat of oil that gives a smooth surface after some light sanding with 00 steel wool.  It also seals the wood, and gives a beautiful sheen to it.  Best to apply two coats of polymerized tung oil.  This is my choice for the bo's that I make.  

Note: Don't use ordinary tung oil, since it will take forever to cure between coats.  

2) Boiled linseed oil - Also another good choice, if you want a surface with a bit more friction.  For escrima sticks, this may be the better choice.  

Note: Put all used rags that are soaked with the oil, into a large Ziploc bag filled with water when you're done.  Otherwise, the heat of curing can make the rags spontaneously combust.  

3) Danish wood oil - You have to be a bit more attentive with this oil, since you'll probably want to apply multiple wet coats to get the best seal.  Once it's hardened, and sanded down, you get one of the smoothest surfaces that looks even better, with a bit of darkening.  The downside is that this oil coat isn't quite as durable as either of the above oils.  

4) Walnut oil - One of my favorites as well.  It leaves a coating that's close to the first two oils' hardness, and is completely non-toxic.


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## MLA9741 (Apr 17, 2012)

thank you very much! I couldn't have asked for a better answer! I will probably use boiled linseed oil due to the fact that it is most abundant in my house. eventually i will try the polimerized tung oil if it is relatively cheap! thanks again!


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## lklawson (Apr 17, 2012)

What Grenadier said.

Note that you can also use most other finishes as well such as poly &tc.  However, the "thinner" the finish, such as the various oils suggested, the more deeply they'll penetrate the wood grain and lock the fibers together.

I've also had decent luck with bee wax and even candle wax.  They don't last as long (by far) as any of the oils or finishes but they do smooth out the grain, and make the area slightly more dense and cushions ever so slightly against impacts.  When I've used waxes, I also used a heat gun to melt the wax until it flowed like water and then heated the wood so that it soaked into the fibers.

My best results (longest lasting and most durable) have been with polyurethane.  (note: some people don't like the "feel" of the wood with poly on it - doesn't "slide" the same way in the hand - give some people blisters)  The wax was extremely attractive but I think the most attractive results were from the Tung Oil or the Boiled Linseed.  They both add a color to the wood.  The wax makes it look darker and slightly "aged" but it buffs out in a way that cannot be matched with the Tung Oil or the Boiled Linseed.

Once, on a white ash Jo, I used Boiled Linseed for a few coats, sanded, wiped with water, then waxed.  Looked sweet.

I suspect that you could even use Pledge on bare wood though I haven't tried.

As part of  your maintenance process, you really must re-fortify with wood oil to prevent the wood from drying out.  After you sand, use wood oil.  Lemon oil is great but there is also rosewood oil and some other stuff.  Heck, Murphy's Oil Soap, even.

You might also consider what wood you're using for your weapons.  A lot of boken &tc. are made with oak, which ain't bad, but there are better.  Consider buying a hickory boken.  Trust me on this.  It'll be a bit heavier but it'll be nigh on indestructible. 

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk


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## MLA9741 (Apr 17, 2012)

thanks for your input, these are all points i will consider. i have a pair of bahi escrima and i like to make them from oak dowels from home depot and they hold up pretty well. coating with polyurethane seems like a solid idea, but i feel like it will chip too easy and wouldn't have a long span. maybe ill make my own bo also... seems like a fun idea... i may just need a tutorial. thanks again.

edit: can anyone point me to sufficient tutorials on crafting bo and escrima?


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## lklawson (Apr 17, 2012)

MLA9741 said:


> thanks for your input, these are all points i will consider. i have a pair of bahi escrima and i like to make them from oak dowels from home depot and they hold up pretty well. coating with polyurethane seems like a solid idea, but i feel like it will chip too easy and wouldn't have a long span. maybe ill make my own bo also... seems like a fun idea... i may just need a tutorial. thanks again.
> 
> edit: can anyone point me to sufficient tutorials on crafting bo and escrima?


Be careful of turned rods and dowels.  The grain can run out.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk


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## MLA9741 (Apr 17, 2012)

lklawson said:


> Be careful of turned rods and dowels.  The grain can run out.
> 
> Peace favor your sword,
> Kirk



hm, next time around i may need to check for that


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## chinto (Apr 18, 2012)

I sand the weapons, then soak them for about 30 minutes in linseed oil and turpentine. about oh 10% to 15% turpentine to BOILED linseed oil!.  (DO NOT USE UNBOILED LINSEED OIL AS IT WILL NEVER DRY AND ALWAYS BE STICKY!!)  I use a piece of  4 inch PVC pipe with a cap on one end and a screw on cap on the other end as a 'tank' to soak the weapons in.  make sure the weapon is submerged in it for that time, take it out, wipe it down and put the rags in a bucked of water!  linseed oil will spontaneously combust on rags very often. let stand in a corner in a bowl or what have you and wipe a few times over the next few hours if you need to.  will be completely dry to the touch  normally in about a day. makes the weapon very durable compared to non oiled.  I have a bo I have used for 12 years hard and it looks like when I got it except for a much nicer looking grain and color!

I dunk my Bo and other weapons about once a year, and the first time I dunk them about once a month for 3 or so times. makes for a very good looking and durable weapon.

my Boken looks just as good and every one at the dojo wants their bo and boken  to be as touch and look as good, so I have been " dunking" them for them after they sand them.


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## MLA9741 (Apr 18, 2012)

chinto said:


> I sand the weapons, then soak them for about 30 minutes in linseed oil and turpentine. about oh 10% to 15% turpentine to BOILED linseed oil!.  (DO NOT USE UNBOILED LINSEED OIL AS IT WILL NEVER DRY AND ALWAYS BE STICKY!!)  I use a piece of  4 inch PVC pipe with a cap on one end and a screw on cap on the other end as a 'tank' to soak the weapons in.  make sure the weapon is submerged in it for that time, take it out, wipe it down and put the rags in a bucked of water!  linseed oil will spontaneously combust on rags very often. let stand in a corner in a bowl or what have you and wipe a few times over the next few hours if you need to.  will be completely dry to the touch  normally in about a day. makes the weapon very durable compared to non oiled.  I have a bo I have used for 12 years hard and it looks like when I got it except for a much nicer looking grain and color!
> 
> I dunk my Bo and other weapons about once a year, and the first time I dunk them about once a month for 3 or so times. makes for a very good looking and durable weapon.
> 
> my Boken looks just as good and every one at the dojo wants their bo and boken  to be as touch and look as good, so I have been " dunking" them for them after they sand them.



oooooooo! what a great idea! i have to create a shopping list! thanks for the idea!


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## chinto (Apr 20, 2012)

you are welcome and It works great!!  done it for almost 12 years.


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## Ken Morgan (Apr 20, 2012)

Articles you may find useful
http://ejmas.com/tin/tinart_taylor_1100.htm

http://ejmas.com/tin/2007tin/tinart_taylor_0708.html

http://ejmas.com/pt/ptart_taylorcol_0603.html

http://ejmas.com/tin/2009tin/tinart_goldstein_0904.html


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## chinto (Apr 24, 2012)

great list of woods and their characteristics ken


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## ride57 (May 22, 2012)

chinto said:


> I sand the weapons, then soak them for about 30 minutes in linseed oil and turpentine. about oh 10% to 15% turpentine to BOILED linseed oil!.  (DO NOT USE UNBOILED LINSEED OIL AS IT WILL NEVER DRY AND ALWAYS BE STICKY!!)  I use a piece of  4 inch PVC pipe with a cap on one end and a screw on cap on the other end as a 'tank' to soak the weapons in.  make sure the weapon is submerged in it for that time, take it out, wipe it down and put the rags in a bucked of water!  linseed oil will spontaneously combust on rags very often. let stand in a corner in a bowl or what have you and wipe a few times over the next few hours if you need to.  will be completely dry to the touch  normally in about a day. makes the weapon very durable compared to non oiled.  I have a bo I have used for 12 years hard and it looks like when I got it except for a much nicer looking grain and color!
> 
> I dunk my Bo and other weapons about once a year, and the first time I dunk them about once a month for 3 or so times. makes for a very good looking and durable weapon.
> 
> my Boken looks just as good and every one at the dojo wants their bo and boken  to be as touch and look as good, so I have been " dunking" them for them after they sand them.



Thanks, for the tip. !


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## chinto (May 22, 2012)

you are very welcome


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