# How to make sparring sticks



## Andrew Green (May 21, 2007)

This is how I make our sparring sticks.  They make for good sticks, more durable, weightier and more absorbent then the commercial padded sticks we've used.  For sparring we use these, MMA glove and headgear w/ masks.  Get a few bruises, but nothing too bad.

Other sizes and weapons can also be done 

http://innovativema.ca/forum/view.php?pg=sparstick


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## OUMoose (May 21, 2007)

Pfft... where's the spikes and tasers?


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## Chizikunbo (May 21, 2007)

Andrew Green said:


> This is how I make our sparring sticks.  They make for good sticks, more durable, weightier and more absorbent then the commercial padded sticks we've used.  For sparring we use these, MMA glove and headgear w/ masks.  Get a few bruises, but nothing too bad.
> 
> Other sizes and weapons can also be done
> 
> http://innovativema.ca/forum/view.php?pg=sparstick



This is the EXACT method I have used for years for sparring staffs/sticks, and  swords. I have family who works at the local hardware store and we began doing this with the very same materials its a small world ;-)
--josh


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## jks9199 (May 21, 2007)

Chizikunbo said:


> This is the EXACT method I have used for years for sparring staffs/sticks, and  swords. I have family who works at the local hardware store and we began doing this with the very same materials its a small world ;-)
> --josh


I use pipe insulation instead of carpet foam, but otherwise -- do pretty much the same thing.  We use them for a variety of purposes, from blocking and evasion exercises to sparring for stick/sword.  They're solid enough to pack a decent, attention getting wallop -- but forgiving enough not to deter training.  And they're cheap enough that when they break, no big loss.


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## Andrew Green (May 22, 2007)

jks9199 said:


> I use pipe insulation instead of carpet foam, but otherwise -- do pretty much the same thing.  We use them for a variety of purposes, from blocking and evasion exercises to sparring for stick/sword.  They're solid enough to pack a decent, attention getting wallop -- but forgiving enough not to deter training.  And they're cheap enough that when they break, no big loss.




We did that too at first, but the insulation didn't hold up very well.


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## Dave Leverich (May 22, 2007)

Any thought to using a rattan core instead of the PVC pipe?
I'd looked at this route as a safer way to do heavier contact as well.


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## jks9199 (May 22, 2007)

Andrew Green said:


> We did that too at first, but the insulation didn't hold up very well.


Interesting....  I've had more trouble with the PVC not holding up than the insulation.  I can't tell you how many we've broken when they clash...  And the pipe insulation is much easier to work with; it's already round, and many types have adhesive along the slit that lets you put it around the pipe.


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## silatman (May 22, 2007)

I've always just found old golf clubs or fishing rods and cut them to the required lenght, pushed them, lined with liquid nails adhesive into the round aeroflex foam insulation tube, sewed up a cotton cover for it then a couple wraps of tape for the hand grip. Never had one break, EVER. They are perfect for the weight and diameter Kali Stick that we train with, and you can generate enough power with them that your partner will tell you to back off without being at risk of injury other than bruising. 
If you get the chance have a crack at one of these.


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## Brian R. VanCise (May 22, 2007)

Hey Andrew that method works pretty good for the shorter
sticks however if you go to longer sticks 4 feet and up the
PVC just does not hold up under the pressure.  However for
the shorter ones it does pretty good.


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## Andrew Green (May 22, 2007)

Yeah, same things here.  Even up to 4 feet is ok, past that they get a little floppy.  

You need to "stuff the pipe" or use rattan.  By that I mean stick another PVC pipe in the bigger one, or better yet get a wood dowel that can be worked in for a tight fit.

As for rattan, with this type of padding it's not too bad, with pipe insulator.... ouch...


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## Brian R. VanCise (May 22, 2007)

Hey Andrew watch the wood dowel as when you go for longer lengths when they break and they will that dowel is sometimes sharp and dangerous!


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## Andrew Green (May 22, 2007)

dowel goes inside the PVC, and seal it in


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## jks9199 (May 22, 2007)

I've been thinking about trying triple-expanding foam as a filler for the PVC...  I don't know how well it'll work, but I'm thinking it might give some extra support to the PVC, without creating the potential problems of either multiple layers of PVC or dowels breaking.


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## Andrew Green (May 22, 2007)

Interesting idea, if you go for it let us know how it goes


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## Blindside (May 23, 2007)

jks9199 said:


> I've been thinking about trying triple-expanding foam as a filler for the PVC... I don't know how well it'll work, but I'm thinking it might give some extra support to the PVC, without creating the potential problems of either multiple layers of PVC or dowels breaking.


 
I've tried it, it doesn't work. It offers a bit of weight but no lateral strength component.  

Our light sticks, which we use as an intro stick is 3/8" cpvc with pipe insulation.

Our heavy stick is 1/2" nylon rod with pipe insulation.  This is just as heavy as rattan, and you can get a TKO if you hit the guy just right.  I don't think it is any worse that rattan, the padding is mostly psychological and you don't get stick hickies, but rather larger, more diffuse bruises.

Lamont


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## Brian R. VanCise (May 23, 2007)

Andrew Green said:


> dowel goes inside the PVC, and seal it in


 
I used to do the same thing Andrew but as they get longer the pvc by itself get's flimsy.  We corrected it with a dowel inside and later discarded the idea after a pvc/dowel break where we had a projectile dowel (jagged) go flying.  Since then I have used very thin rattan inside but really with all the effort it is easier just to buy something.  At least that is my opinion.


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## Andrew Green (May 23, 2007)

Where I have seen a dowel used it was not a loose fit, it was tight, basically banged in.

But I tend to agree, at that point it's not really worth it.  I'd go with a rattan Bo and pad that for a 6 ft one.


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## Big Don (Dec 23, 2007)

I used .875 inch Coax cable, cut to 1" short of required length and padded as recomended in first post. The coaxial cable is VERY RIGID and has a nice weight to it. Where to find it is more problematic, but not too difficult. Call your local cable company. They are constantly removing and replacing and most of the old cable gets either thrown away or recycled. Better that we use it for beating on each other than it gets made into a door panel or something...


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