toughening the hand

opr1945

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I have been watching videos on toughening the hand. Pushing your hand into a bucket filled with resistance seems very popular. My question is what substance should be in the bucket for best results? I see rice, soy beans, larger beans, sand, gravel and even rocks. Or is a progression using many of these best?

Thanks.
 
Most people use green mung beans to train iron palm. It's cold in nature that can balance the heat your body create.

mung_bean.jpg
 
The traditional karate striking board(makiwara), is traditionally covered by a hemp bundle at the striking area, the hemp is said to have antibacterial properties and so protects the hands of the skin cuts
 
My question is what substance should be in the bucket for best results? I see rice, soy beans, larger beans, sand, gravel and even rocks. Or is a progression using many of these best?
A progression was often used. Details are unimportant unless you're thinking about engaging in this practice. This leads to the question of why you would want to? The price you pay to turn your fingers into lethal weapons is having deformed hands with limited dexterity. Probably not a good tradeoff in today's world. Even if you're willing to accept this result, it would be worthless unless your style emphasizes spear hand thrusts to vital areas as its major doctrine, and you actually plan to use them in actual combat. Without these last two conditions there is no reason to undergo such training.
Most people use green mung beans to train iron palm. It's cold in nature that can balance the heat your body create.
It may seem to be cooling as they are less abrasive (and damaging) when compared to other materials.
The traditional karate striking board(makiwara), is traditionally covered by a hemp bundle at the striking area, the hemp is said to have antibacterial properties and so protects the hands of the skin cuts
The makiwara I trained on was a 2x4 backed 1/3 of the way up with a 4x4 and had hardly any give at all. It was wrapped with rope of some kind of rough natural fiber. It did flay the skin off your knuckles but, hey, it grew back in a couple of days. Never had any problem with infection. IMO this kind of practice is more useful than the kind you're asking about.
 
A progression was often used. Details are unimportant unless you're thinking about engaging in this practice. This leads to the question of why you would want to? The price you pay to turn your fingers into lethal weapons is having deformed hands with limited dexterity. Probably not a good tradeoff in today's world. Even if you're willing to accept this result, it would be worthless unless your style emphasizes spear hand thrusts to vital areas as its major doctrine, and you actually plan to use them in actual combat. Without these last two conditions there is no reason to undergo such training.

It may seem to be cooling as they are less abrasive (and damaging) when compared to other materials.

The makiwara I trained on was a 2x4 backed 1/3 of the way up with a 4x4 and had hardly any give at all. It was wrapped with rope of some kind of rough natural fiber. It did flay the skin off your knuckles but, hey, it grew back in a couple of days. Never had any problem with infection. IMO this kind of practice is more useful than the kind you're asking about.
The rope was probably of the traditional hemp made.
However nowadays most seem not to use that hemp rope thing, but rather some leather covered rubber “plate” attached as the striking area.
At least that what I punched at in the dojo I trained in Naha, bloody knuckles anyway, but healed quite quick
 
+100 for makiwara. The benefits of it are great. It toughens the hands, but that's more of a byproduct of proper usage. You can strike it with any part of the hand- knuckles, palm, shuto, back of hand, ridge hand. Also the forearms and elbows. So you can use it to condition all those parts. I've used 2x4's in the far past and they're a good starting point but not stiff enough after a few years of practice. I use a 4x4 post ripped down. Full 3.5x3.5 at bottom (ground level), tapered to 3/4 inch thick at the very top. Flexes but stiffer and pushes back more than a 2x4.
For padding you can use an old belt or dock line ( rope used to tie a boat to a dock cleat). Just wrap around the top. You can also kick and knee lower down the post. Both are easy to get and replace when needed. Also never had any issues with infection.
 
Another benefit is being able to attach a broom handle to it to act as a sort of arm. I use bungee cords so the "arm" will move around, snap back etc. Point it straight forward, allows you to practice clearing it as you move in to strike.
 
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