Newbie board break question?

MaxiMe

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OK here goes nuttin.
I have a belt test comming up and will need to board break (2 breaks of 2 boards per technique).

I've done rebrakables and a few single boards in classes and fooling around. I have no doubt I can chop wood with the lumberjacks.
Just looking for thoughts.

What 2 techniques should I set up for from the get go? Note Master will probably have me reset one of them just to add a little flavor to the mix.
 
You are breaking 2 boards per station (about 2 inch thickness)?

Well, pick the techniques you are most comfortable with.
I think my first time breaking for a test (which was actually among pretty tight parameters in terms of the technique I could pick from) I think I used and elbow strike (almost taking my holder out on the follow through) and a side kick (a kick I do not like much)

Just make sure you set the boards up (I am assuming you will have live holders) to where you can hit it with maximum power (save flash for demos) and that your holders have their arms locked and preferably don't look at you while you break, so they can't anticipate the impact. That can make or break your attempt.

make sure the grain goes with your technique...

Other than that:
Break it.
:)
 
Ok, if you want to make this a cake walk you have to go side kick and back fist. Think torque, aim 2 inches behind the target and remember that if you do it right it will not hurt.
 
back fist?!

Omar, you animal! ;)

I would have suggested elbow/forearm strike or Hammer fist...

Also: if you have done rebreakables you should be fine. Wood is much more forgiving.
 
If you are stacking them on blocks then hammerfist or palm srtike to minimize damage to yourself. For standing breaks I suggest an albow/forearm strike and a side kick. If you are accurate then a back kick. Good luck, aim correctly and follow through.
 
Go step side kick, you will practically fall through the board, it is the first timber break we do at our club and even my 9 year old daughter breaks easily with a stepping side kick and she's tiny for her age.
 
I agree with most of the other posters: side fist and step side kick. Aim for the holders, not the board, and you'll go right through.

Rick
 
Thanks all. I was doing a brain check. I should have mentioned it is stand up with live holders. And yes 2 boards per station yeah lumber lingo is 1x so 2 " thick, but we all know lumber is acctually .75 thick so a total of 1.5"

Omar I like it back fist is my fave hand tech.
 
and a side kick (a kick I do not like much)

preferably don't look at you while you break, so they can't anticipate the impact. That can make or break your attempt.


Other than that:
Break it.
:)

Agree with you on the side, Master says I'm pretty good with it but I don't like it much either.
And thanks for the tip I'll try and get my holders to turn their heads.
 
You are breaking 2 boards per station (about 2 inch thickness)?

Well, pick the techniques you are most comfortable with.
I think my first time breaking for a test (which was actually among pretty tight parameters in terms of the technique I could pick from) I think I used and elbow strike (almost taking my holder out on the follow through) and a side kick (a kick I do not like much)

Just make sure you set the boards up (I am assuming you will have live holders) to where you can hit it with maximum power (save flash for demos) and that your holders have their arms locked and preferably don't look at you while you break, so they can't anticipate the impact. That can make or break your attempt.

make sure the grain goes with your technique...

Other than that:
Break it.
:)

Exelent advises!!!

Manny
 
Do power breaks!!! for one board you can use a punch or even a downward chop, even a hammer strike. For to boards you can step back and do a side kick, or if you are competente a spining back kick, now if you want to go high you can break two boards with an axe kick too.

The elbow can easily go trough tow boards.

The breaks I've been doing with one inch tick boards are:

1.-One board karate chop.
2.-One board reverse punch.
3.-Two boards elbow.
4.-Two boards side kick or back kick (turning back kick).
5.-One board ax kick.

What I like to do is jumping spining hook kick and a tornado kick... but for me this is dificult jajajajaja.

Manny
 
most important is to aim behind the boards, make sure that when your leg is at full stretch it finishes behind the boards, as if you are trying to kick your holders stomach/chest.

i recently broke 4 boards with a lead leg side kick, it took me about 2 weeks training to get the torque and power right but on my first attempt i was too far away...
 
Nothing says newbie like the hammer fist or palm break.
We do not allow these at any level.

If you can break like a lumberjack try something that shosw speed and technique instead of raw mass. You didn't say what rank you were so it may be a while before you would want to do a 2 board unsupported break, punch where the punching hand start open fingertips touching the board with no retraction, or side kick starting from standing on one leg with the kicking leg chambered and using it as a lead leg kick break.
 
Do most schools allow you to pick your own breaking techniques?

In our Moo Duk Kwan school, the breaks are stipulated for each geup. Sometimes, if time allows, candidates also do additional breaks of their choice. For my last test (Cho Dan Bo) I did 2" with a knee, 2" backwards elbow, 2" side kick (left leg, since I prefer to break with my right) and 4" with a full turning back kick.

Dan rankings pick their own breaks.

Pick breaks that you're comfortable with and that show good power and speed. For power breaks, you're better off (I believe) with a mechanical board holder. Something that will not move. Too many breaks fail because the holders flinched. I've done many 6-8" breaks on my board holder at home. But breaks that heavy with live holders often fail simply because the holders move. On my last break, I needed two attempts for the elbow strike. I stepped forward, broke with the knee, stepped back and the holder moved the board up...
The suggestion that you ask the holders not to look is excellent. They're less likely to flinch.
Good luck with your test, and please let us know how it goes.
 
Do most schools allow you to pick your own breaking techniques?


Pick breaks that you're comfortable with and that show good power and speed. For power breaks, you're better off (I believe) with a mechanical board holder. Something that will not move. The suggestion that you ask the holders not to look is excellent. They're less likely to flinch.
Good luck with your test, and please let us know how it goes.

Got any leads on one of these holders? I might get or build one for future practice.

Guys I'm green going to purple. But I can put some mass behind things. Think built like a fire hydrant.
And sorry no whirling dirvish , hurricane tornado nuttin from me. I prefer simople and to the point.

I'm thinking step side and a back or plain reverse punch. Keep in mind that could all change with just a word from the man sitting behind the table.

Thanks for all the info and yes the target is 6" behind the face of the board.
 
Got any leads on one of these holders? I might get or build one for future practice.

This is the one I use:
http://www.breakingboardholder.com/

There are plenty of others out there. The Ferrari of board holders has to be the one Century makes, but it's about $600, which is insane.

Earl Weiss has posted plans for his home-built board holder a few times.
 
Do most schools allow you to pick your own breaking techniques?

In our Moo Duk Kwan school, the breaks are stipulated for each geup. Sometimes, if time allows, candidates also do additional breaks of their choice. For my last test (Cho Dan Bo) I did 2" with a knee, 2" backwards elbow, 2" side kick (left leg, since I prefer to break with my right) and 4" with a full turning back kick.

Dan rankings pick their own breaks.

Pick breaks that you're comfortable with and that show good power and speed. For power breaks, you're better off (I believe) with a mechanical board holder. Something that will not move. Too many breaks fail because the holders flinched. I've done many 6-8" breaks on my board holder at home. But breaks that heavy with live holders often fail simply because the holders move. On my last break, I needed two attempts for the elbow strike. I stepped forward, broke with the knee, stepped back and the holder moved the board up...
The suggestion that you ask the holders not to look is excellent. They're less likely to flinch.
Good luck with your test, and please let us know how it goes.

For 2 boards 2 sturdy guys is all you need. Heck, I held 3 for my instructor once, but that's the limit (because my hands are small :))


Somewhere on the forum are the links to board holders. Might take a bit of sleuthing to find them, but they have been mentioned before.
 
Sleuthing done found it.

Thanks for the lead and Thanks to Earl for posting it.
 
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