I'm Looking to buy a 48" White Wax Wood Stick

[kosho]

I had some ( ash ) jo's made for my dojo.

50 inches in hight. 1 inch wide.

all hand made. took some time but worth the wait.

love them.

kosho

 

[Doc_Jude]

not a bad idea, but I'm usually preparing staffs approaching 7 feet. I'd need quite a lot of oil to fill that pipe, and a place to store it in the mean time.

I cap the PVC tube so the oil lasts awhile, but I usually process enough sticks to displace the oil to a level over the sticks. That way it's less oil. A quick spin of the tube makes sure that oil is uniform over sticks. I keep the tube vertical, just leaning in a corner of the garage. A gallon or two of linseed oil isn't much, esp if you plan on doing this as a hobby or a vocation. It works well. Tung oil is great too, esp as a final coat over linseed oil.

***WOA: after soaking, most woods will bleed oil for a period of time. Just let them dry after soaking & check from time to time. Wipe off excess oil or lightly sand off dried oil.

I don't generally sand between coats, as I feel like I'm removing what I just applied. Instead, I sand first, then rub in several coats, let it cure overnight between coats. I just dampen a rag with oil and rub it in, it only takes a minute or two per coat. Wear rubber gloves, or at least disposable exam gloves, you can get about 50 for maybe $15 at walgreens, or at a hardware store, as I have also heard you don't want to really handle the oil with bare skin. I guess once it drys, it's OK, tho. Doc Jude, care to comment on that?

No, that's what I said. "Sand & Hand Apply". Yes, wear gloves when handling linseed oil or most other oils. It's just not as messy. You don't need to used a degreaser to really clean your hands & you aren't handling cancer-causing materials.
I usually let the oil dry before I sand, tho I've heard of some "wet sanding". I tried it. It used up a lot of sand paper.
Once the linseed oil is dry, sand it & then a coat or two of tung oil over that should do the trick. That way, little to no linseed oil comes in contact with the skin.
Keep in mind, also, that natural hand oils will also keep the stick somewhat conditioned. If cracks occur, try repairing with tung oil (if fills the cracks & tends to pull the wood together)

Another thing: oil soaked rags can spontaneously combust if you just toss them in the trash. I put them in a plastic bag and fill it with water before throwing it out.

That is true. Be careful when disposing of oil-soaked rags. Oil combustion sucks, esp when you're not home to deal with it. I keep all oil-soaked rags outside in a large #10 can.

 

[Flying Crane]

Once the linseed oil is dry, sand it & then a coat or two of tung oil over that should do the trick. That way, little to no linseed oil comes in contact with the skin.

Is it your opinion that linseed oil actually remains hazardous after it is dry? I know it is often used to finish wood, including furniture, but I've never heard anyone suggest you should put something else over the top of it to act as a barrier to the touch.

 

[Doc_Jude]

Is it your opinion that linseed oil actually remains hazardous after it is dry? I know it is often used to finish wood, including furniture, but I've never heard anyone suggest you should put something else over the top of it to act as a barrier to the touch.

I don't know, I usually like to ere on the side of caution. Besides, I have a lil' tin of tung oil, so it's not a hassle. Sometimes I do it, sometimes I don't. I have yet to get cancer, but hey! why tempt fate?

 

[Flying Crane]

I don't know, I usually like to ere on the side of caution. Besides, I have a lil' tin of tung oil, so it's not a hassle. Sometimes I do it, sometimes I don't. I have yet to get cancer, but hey! why tempt fate?

Yes, i agree, I tend to err on the side of caution if I can.

Linseed oil is often promoted as something that can always be re-added in the future if need be, like if the wood gets scuffed. If it is covered with something else like tung oil, I guess that would make it impossible to add more coats, so I always just figured it wasn't a problem after it cured.

I have other sensitivity issues with wood. I've done some work with exotic hardwoods, and found out the hard way that they can cause some nasty skin irritations that like to stick around once you get it. The exotics in particular, stuff from South America and Africa, are often especially problematic, as the wood itself has natural defensive properties. Not everyone is sensitive, but sensitivity can develop over time and with repeated exposure, and I definitely am.

I get a steroid cream from my doctor and it helps a lot, but it seems like I always have a small level of irritation that sticks around. I don't work with the exotics anymore, but it seems like I am just sort of sensitive to wood in general now, perhaps. Not sure exactly, I'm always handling stuff and it's hard to say specifically what is the cause now.

So I definitely keep skin barriers in mind when I am working with wood.

When I make a sword handle or scabbard, if it is one that I intend to keep for my own use, I am now coating it with a thick, sort of rubbery epoxy mix that is often used for coating things like bar counters. It creates a definite barrier, where I think the oil finishes often don't completely seal the wood from contact with the skin. Problem is, it's tough to apply to a round piece like a staff, as it takes several hours to dry, and it continues to run for the duration. I prop the end of the piece between two supports, and I turn it over every few minutes to keep it from dripping off, until it dries sufficiently to stop running. But I need to babysit it for about 5-6 hours before I can leave it alone. Tough to do with a 7 foot staff, I rent and dont have a garage, so I do a lot of this work in my living room.

 

[Doc_Jude]

Yes, i agree, I tend to err on the side of caution if I can.

Linseed oil is often promoted as something that can always be re-added in the future if need be, like if the wood gets scuffed. If it is covered with something else like tung oil, I guess that would make it impossible to add more coats, so I always just figured it wasn't a problem after it cured.

When have you had to re-treat with anything but tung oil if tung oil was applied in the first place? I never have. Just me.

I have other sensitivity issues with wood. I've done some work with exotic hardwoods, and found out the hard way that they can cause some nasty skin irritations that like to stick around once you get it. The exotics in particular, stuff from South America and Africa, are often especially problematic, as the wood itself has natural defensive properties. Not everyone is sensitive, but sensitivity can develop over time and with repeated exposure, and I definitely am.

I get a steroid cream from my doctor and it helps a lot, but it seems like I always have a small level of irritation that sticks around. I don't work with the exotics anymore, but it seems like I am just sort of sensitive to wood in general now, perhaps. Not sure exactly, I'm always handling stuff and it's hard to say specifically what is the cause now.

So I definitely keep skin barriers in mind when I am working with wood.

When I make a sword handle or scabbard, if it is one that I intend to keep for my own use, I am now coating it with a thick, sort of rubbery epoxy mix that is often used for coating things like bar counters. It creates a definite barrier, where I think the oil finishes often don't completely seal the wood from contact with the skin. Problem is, it's tough to apply to a round piece like a staff, as it takes several hours to dry, and it continues to run for the duration. I prop the end of the piece between two supports, and I turn it over every few minutes to keep it from dripping off, until it dries sufficiently to stop running. But I need to babysit it for about 5-6 hours before I can leave it alone. Tough to do with a 7 foot staff, I rent and dont have a garage, so I do a lot of this work in my living room.

Sounds like you know what you're doing. I have a ball messing with this stuff.

Also, for folks just getting into woodworking, some woods are NOT GOOD FOR THE RESPIRATORY SYSTEM (black walnut, etc). It's always a good idea to wear at least a painting mask while sanding, if there is wood dust in the air.

 

[tapadista]

I'm really glad i started this thread. You guys have turned me with a great intrest to this woodwork. so much info in such a short time. I can't wait to go and try this out for myself. i can already imagine my pvc tubes all lined up.

I assume that this curing process would add weight to the stick?

 

[Flying Crane]

When have you had to re-treat with anything but tung oil if tung oil was applied in the first place? I never have. Just me.

Duh-OH! Good point. Brain turned off for a minute. all these oil finishes can be reapplied.

Sounds like you know what you're doing. I have a ball messing with this stuff.

Also, for folks just getting into woodworking, some woods are NOT GOOD FOR THE RESPIRATORY SYSTEM (black walnut, etc). It's always a good idea to wear at least a painting mask while sanding, if there is wood dust in the air.

Yeah, it's fun stuff, most of what I do, I sort of figured out for myself.

Yes, working with wood can be hazardous for the health, make sure you have good ventilation, and definitely wear a filter respirator when sanding.

Cocobolo is notorious for causing health problems. Workshops often post rules:

Rule #1: Everyone is allergic to Cocobolo
Rule #2: If you aren't allergic to Cocobolo, you will be.

It's beautiful stuff and working with wood is a lot of fun, but take some safety precautions.

 

[Flying Crane]

I'm really glad i started this thread. You guys have turned me with a great intrest to this woodwork. so much info in such a short time. I can't wait to go and try this out for myself. i can already imagine my pvc tubes all lined up.

I assume that this curing process would add weight to the stick?

The way I have been doing it, not noticeably. If you let it soak for a couple days, I dunno, maybe.